4 days in Bulgaria: Sofia, Bansko, and Plovdiv
From Istanbul, mid-July 2023, we take a night train to Sofia (which JB talked about here).
Part 1: Travel Journal
Part 2: Practical Tips
Part 1: Travel Journal
We stayed in Bulgaria for 2 weeks but only visited for 4 days; the rest of the time we worked, so I’ll only give you the details of our sightseeing. It’s the very first time we set foot in Bulgaria.
Day 1: Sofia
Our hotel is a bit out of the way, so we have to take a taxi. Unfortunately, the taxi meter is rigged, and we pay twice the price we paid for the same trip in the other direction. But we won’t be scammed twice; we discover 2 taxi apps and don’t get scammed again afterward. For those coming by plane, note that the airport is not far from the city center, and you just need to take the metro (for 1.5€).
We chose the hotel Mgallery Maison Sofia at first, very very pretty and with a nice spa to rest after a long train ride (plus we got upgraded thanks to JB’s Accor status)… Being able to get a early check-in as early as 10:30 am is much appreciated.
… we then rented a very spacious Airbnb right in the city center for the rest, saving us from taking public transport. On foot, we were able to see everything.
A stone’s throw from our Airbnb is a famous hot mineral water spring (about 43 degrees) (Google Maps link). JB goes there with two big five-liter bottles to get free mineral water. Others do it too because day and night, there are always lots of people coming with cars full of empty bottles. There are other springs like this in Sofia, but we only tried this one; it has a slightly not unpleasant taste. And clearly, if we had a bathtub and an elevator, I could have prepared a luxury bath with this water.
Right next to it is the Museum of Regional History (which I didn’t visit), a very nice square, the mosque Banya Bashi Mosque (which is only pretty from the outside because the inside is tiny and not that well decorated), and a few quiet little squares.
However, I really like St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. The best view is from the side. As in all Orthodox churches, people queue to kiss the images of saints, and the walls and ceilings are richly decorated. We are not allowed to take photos inside, so I’ll let you do an online search.
Next door is a small church, St. Sofia Church, with red bricks. It’s the oldest in Bulgaria. I really like the calm and serene atmosphere in this church, even if it’s not that beautiful.
I know you should eat local when traveling, but I can’t resist the temptation to recommend Haikara Ramen which is right next door. It’s so good that we went there several times. It’s almost like in Japan.
Speaking of food, there are plenty of small eateries everywhere, very cheap. What we love most are soup bars. For 4 or 5€, you can choose from several daily soups, add some croutons (or not), some cheese, and you’re set for the day. It’s delicious and inexpensive. I recommend: Supa Bar, 1000, ul. Serdika 20, 1000 Sofia, Bulgaria and Supa Star 2, Knyaz Alexander Dondukov Blvd 17, 1000 Sofia Center, Sofia, Bulgaria
There’s a touristy but very nice street, with a view of the mountains in the distance; it’s Vitosha Boulevard. Here, there’s no local food, but it’s a pedestrian street and it’s nice to stroll along.
Another restaurant I recommend is Checkpoint Charly and their duck breast. The dining room decor is really nice, with portraits of the leaders who marked the Cold War era. Facsimiles of newspapers decorate the table.
Since our friend O. came to join us in Sofia, we spent more time testing cafés and pastries than sightseeing 😀 You can always find something good to eat, a nice place to sit. People are friendly, laid-back, respectful, and quiet. I understand better why so many digital nomads choose to settle in Sofia. It’s still in Europe, housing is not expensive at all, and the airport is only 15 minutes away by metro. We went to the movies twice and paid 10€ for an IMAX seat, 10€ for a 4DX seat. Watching “Mission Impossible” in 4DX in a nearly empty theater was my best cinematic moment, I really really enjoyed it!
Unfortunately, this concentration of digital nomads is a problem for the locals. Nice apartments are snapped up by this population, which is wealthier than the average Bulgarian.
We stayed in Sofia for a long time, but in reality, a full day is enough to visit the highlights of Sofia.
Day 2: Boyana Church, Rila Monastery & Bansko
On the weekend, we rent a car to venture outside the capital.
All day trips from Sofia include a stop at the Boyana Church , and Rila Monastery.
The visit to the Boyana Church is paid and limited to 10 minutes per person (you have to wait in front of the church door until a group is allowed in). What’s interesting is that there are 2 layers of paint; you see a rather dull layer, replaced by another more colorful and detailed one (photos are forbidden inside). But the visit is very quick, and you can skip it entirely if you’re short on time.
For Rila Monastery, there are two entrances, but Google suggests a less busy one. The parking lot is quite small, but there are people constantly coming and going. We manage to park with the help of an employee who showed us where to park (for 5 Lev). Access to the monastery is free, though.
This monastery reminds me a lot, even if it’s not comparable, of our trip to Belarus. But here, everything is richly decorated. You don’t know where to look. The exterior, like the interior, is covered in paintings. Here too, you can’t take photos inside, which, by the way, is quite dark and lacking oxygen because of the hundreds of lit candles. The ceiling is very high, and there are many domes; it reminds us of the monasteries we admired in Kosovo and Serbia. But this one is particularly busy: entire buses drop off tons of tourists who form an incessant flow of movement and “oh”s and “ah”s.
Don’t forget to walk around; you might see pretty flowers like we did, hiding a closed door.
There is a staircase (paid) leading to the top of a bell tower.
The visit is pleasant but shouldn’t take more than an hour.
When we see the water springs in Sofia itself, we think there must be other water springs in Bulgaria. And we went to Bansko. There is a mineral pool Hot Mineral Pool “Izgreva” where entry costs 10€, but since it’s low season, we treated ourselves to a night in a super hotel with spa Amira Boutique Hotel (75€, Booking link), almost at the foot of a ski resort: with sauna, hammam, pool (30 degrees), and a Himalayan salt relaxation room. For those without a car, note that there’s a train station here.
In the evening, we treat ourselves to a proper dinner at the gastronomic restaurant Come Prima attached to the 5-star Kempinski Hotel Grand Arena Bansko. We can only praise their service, their dishes, and their open kitchen.
Days 3 & 4: Bansko and Plovdiv
The next morning, we take the gondola to go to Banderishka meadow. This place is also accessible by car, but why drive when you can take the gondola?
There are two stops; the first is only useful for skiers. The second leads to Banderishka meadow, another ski area. Between the two, you go down into the valley, back up, down again… it’s really really pretty!! Sure, it costs 20€. I dare hope the ski pass is cheaper in winter. I don’t think I’d want to ski here; everything seems very difficult (I’m a total beginner).
At Banderishka meadow, we’re at almost 1700 meters, and you can’t go higher in summer. There are various activities (bouncy castle, slides…) for kids, and it’s also great for picnicking.
You can also take the car and stop at ЕКОПЪТЕКА “ДРАГОСТИНОВ ЧАРК. From there, a small hiking trail starts.
Anyway, everything is nice. JB tells me he could easily see himself staying here for a few weeks in a chalet. The town is big enough to meet our needs and close enough to nature to offer beautiful walks.
We then get back in the car to head to Plovdiv, one of the oldest cities in Europe. The road is very pleasant even though we drive slowly because of many curves.
From afar, you can see the hills of Plovdiv, but once you’re there, the hills aren’t that steep (unlike Istanbul), and you can do everything on foot.
Our hotel Grand hotel Plovdiv (80€, Booking link) is huge and even has a Casino (where we’ll each lose €10 in exchange for 45 minutes of fun). Behind the hotel, there’s a covered bridge (full of shops, like Florence but uglier) leading to the city center.
I particularly love this city center, which is extremely photogenic. JB is glad we chose a hotel on the other side of the bridge because it would have been impossible to find a parking spot in the city center, and with such narrow cobblestone streets, we would have struggled with our small car.
I can’t give you a detailed itinerary; the goal is to wander and get lost in the streets. However, there are a few places that stood out to me: First, you can head up to take a photo (without visiting) the amphitheater: Ancient Theatre of Philippopolis. Then, go to Gallery Red Pony, where you can visit a typical Bulgarian house turned gallery for 10 Lev. Right next to it is the Regional Ethnographic Museum Plovdiv, very, very pretty. I only saw the outside because it was closed when we went. While I really enjoyed the chill vibe of Satori Magic Cafe, we had dinner near Tams House, where there are plenty of terraces, cafes, and restaurants.
That’s all for today; I hope this article makes you want to visit Bulgaria and especially Sofia, which we loved, loved, loved.
The rest of our adventure, is right here
Part 2: Practical Tips
- Hotel in Sofia: Maison Sofia (Booking link), a bit out of the way, but with taxi apps, you can get to the city center for less than €4
- Hotel in Bansko: Amira Boutique Hotel (Booking link), €75/night, breakfast included, spa included
- Hotel in Plovdiv: Grand Hotel Plovdiv (Booking link), €80/night, breakfast included, spa at an extra cost
- Car rental: €114 for 3 days
