Turkey
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Istanbul (Turkey) in 2024: the Grand Bazaar & the Tiphane neighborhood
Novotel Bosphorus After a few days spent on the “Blue Mosque” side, we cross the bridge and spend a few days in the Tiphane neighborhood, which we know well because every time we go to Istanbul, we rent an Airbnb within 15 minutes max of this neighborhood. Since we’re only staying for a few days this time, JB books the Novotel Bosphorus for us (Booking link). First because we have Accor miles, but also because JB is still Gold and we might get an upgrade, and because the hotel has a very nice spa. We hesitated between Novotel and Marriott (JB still has his miles with American Express), but Marriott…
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Istanbul (Turkey) in 2024: a lost paradise
Our return to Istanbul in 2024 only confirms one thing: the Istanbul we loved no longer exists… Part 1: Travel JournalPart 2: Practical Tips Part 1: Travel Journal We have a Franco-Turkish friend who owns an apartment in Istanbul and goes there often. We get news about Istanbul, one of our favorite cities, through him. During our stay in 2023, we already sensed a certain unease among the locals, but K. tells me it has gotten worse. He shares some prices from the Asian side: over 20 euros for a breakfast we used to pay barely 7 euros for 5 years ago. JB has had a toothache for a few…
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Our train journey from Istanbul (Turkey) to Sofia (Bulgaria)
I explained to you in this article how to buy a train ticket for the Istanbul – Sofia route. It’s actually not possible to book online; you have to go to the station in person. First tip: allow plenty of extra time for getting to the departure station (Halkalı). It’s located 30 kilometers from Istanbul’s center. And since the train departs at 8 PM, that’s when traffic is insane in Istanbul. We had deliberately booked a hotel the night before just 15 minutes by car from the station. But the trip took over 30 minutes due to traffic jams. Worse, we almost couldn’t find a taxi! All our Uber requests…
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Istanbul to Sofia train: how to book / buy a ticket?
Staying in Istanbul and thinking about our next destination, we learn thatthere is a night train connecting Istanbul to Sofia. It’s a journey of 571 km. The train departs every day from Istanbul at 8 PM, arriving in Sofia at 9:20 AM, a journey of 13 hours and 20 minutes. The departure is from Halkalı station , about a 40-minute drive from Istanbul’s center. When we found this out, we were immediately excited about the idea of taking this trip! However, it’s not possible to book a ticket online; you have to either go in person. Either to the departure station (Halkalı) or to Sirkeci , which has the advantage…
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Review of Beyoğlu Hamam Banyo & Sauna in Istanbul
If you’re going to Istanbul, it’s hard to resist trying a Turkish bath. I described how it works in this article. You have two options: I like the first option, but since I particularly enjoy Turkish baths, I always look for a local spot so I can go regularly without emptying my bank account. During our stay in Istanbul in July 2023, I found one a 10-minute walk from our accommodation: the “Beyoğlu Hamam Banyo & Sauna” (Google Maps link). This one is reserved for men until 10 PM, after which it becomes mixed. The staff speaks a few words of English, enough to make themselves understood, and seem delighted…
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[2023] 4 days 3 nights in Cappadocia: Practical guide, budget, itinerary, travel diary
After a first trip to Cappadocia in 2018, we loved it so much that we decided to return in 2023. Here’s our travel diary (and ultra-detailed practical guide) updated with new prices. Part 1: Practical tipsPart 2: Travel diary Part 1: Practical tips As I write this, 100 TRY = €3.50. Even though inflation is high in Turkey, once converted to euros, it stays roughly the same or even gets cheaper each day. How to get to Cappadocia? Driving could be an option if you’re on a road trip, but we simply opted to fly from Istanbul. Nevsehir is a 30-minute drive from Goreme, and that’s where we decided to…
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[reviews & prices 2023] Non-mixed Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamam in Istanbul (Turkey)
After checking out the local hammams in the neighborhood, I quickly have to give up because they’re all mixed. I mean, the area where you’d normally lie down on the warm marble is mixed. Exfoliation and massage are of course separate. But it bothers me anyway, because JB tells me the local hammam he goes to is all guys. So I went back to the only hammam I go to every time I visit Istanbul: Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamam. At least here, they have separate hours for men and women. With inflation in Turkey, I’m not sure exactly how they calculate their prices, but as a returning customer (meaning my…
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[2023] Local Whirling Dervishes performance at Yenikapı Mevlevi Lodge in Istanbul
The first time we came to Istanbul, we attended a local ceremony of Whirling Dervishes in Istanbul. In 2023, we wanted to go back to the same place, but we found out it was closed. The “touristy” shows still take place every night, but we wanted to attend a real local performance with the Sufi community. After asking around, I found a monthly local show. Only one seat was left, which could be bought online. 50TL (barely €2). I suggest to JB that we go anyway in case someone cancels, but he refuses, because the venue is quite far (50 minutes by tram) and if he gets turned away, he…
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How to withdraw money without fees in Turkey?
If you’re planning a trip to Turkey, these links might interest you: – Internet: Choose the Holafly eSIM for its unlimited data and its exclusive advantage Always On (1 GB/month backup offered, available even after your plan expires to manage your layovers or a flight delay). – The best hotel deals near the famous Taksim Square – Tours offered by our partner Civitatis Three years after our previous stay in Turkey, I had forgotten how difficult it could be to withdraw money without fees. The current monetary crisis in Turkey certainly doesn’t help. To hope to withdraw money without fees in Turkey, you absolutely must: Note that Visa and Mastercard…
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Our stay in Istanbul in 2022 (Turkey)
Right after Dubai, we alternated between Istanbul and France from November 2021 to March 2022. We took the opportunity to go see our favorite polyglot dentist in Istanbul and visit a few places we hadn’t seen last time. The Turkish currency is in freefall and we can take advantage of it twice as much. This time, we’re taking advantage of Covid prices to stay right in the heart of the Karakoyneighborhood, 100 meters from the Galata Tower (Galateia Residence, Booking link) and 10 meters from a metro station. It’s a very lively neighborhood with tons of restaurants. Our apartment has two work desks, it’s super well heated and very quiet,…
