Istanbul
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Istanbul (Turkey) in 2024: the Grand Bazaar & the Tiphane neighborhood
Novotel Bosphorus After a few days spent on the “Blue Mosque” side, we cross the bridge and spend a few days in the Tiphane neighborhood, which we know well because every time we go to Istanbul, we rent an Airbnb within 15 minutes max of this neighborhood. Since we’re only staying for a few days this time, JB books the Novotel Bosphorus for us (Booking link). First because we have Accor miles, but also because JB is still Gold and we might get an upgrade, and because the hotel has a very nice spa. We hesitated between Novotel and Marriott (JB still has his miles with American Express), but Marriott…
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Istanbul (Turkey) in 2024: a lost paradise
Our return to Istanbul in 2024 only confirms one thing: the Istanbul we loved no longer exists… Part 1: Travel JournalPart 2: Practical Tips Part 1: Travel Journal We have a Franco-Turkish friend who owns an apartment in Istanbul and goes there often. We get news about Istanbul, one of our favorite cities, through him. During our stay in 2023, we already sensed a certain unease among the locals, but K. tells me it has gotten worse. He shares some prices from the Asian side: over 20 euros for a breakfast we used to pay barely 7 euros for 5 years ago. JB has had a toothache for a few…
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[reviews & prices 2023] Non-mixed Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamam in Istanbul (Turkey)
After checking out the local hammams in the neighborhood, I quickly have to give up because they’re all mixed. I mean, the area where you’d normally lie down on the warm marble is mixed. Exfoliation and massage are of course separate. But it bothers me anyway, because JB tells me the local hammam he goes to is all guys. So I went back to the only hammam I go to every time I visit Istanbul: Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamam. At least here, they have separate hours for men and women. With inflation in Turkey, I’m not sure exactly how they calculate their prices, but as a returning customer (meaning my…
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[2023] Local Whirling Dervishes performance at Yenikapı Mevlevi Lodge in Istanbul
The first time we came to Istanbul, we attended a local ceremony of Whirling Dervishes in Istanbul. In 2023, we wanted to go back to the same place, but we found out it was closed. The “touristy” shows still take place every night, but we wanted to attend a real local performance with the Sufi community. After asking around, I found a monthly local show. Only one seat was left, which could be bought online. 50TL (barely €2). I suggest to JB that we go anyway in case someone cancels, but he refuses, because the venue is quite far (50 minutes by tram) and if he gets turned away, he…
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Our stay in Istanbul in 2022 (Turkey)
Right after Dubai, we alternated between Istanbul and France from November 2021 to March 2022. We took the opportunity to go see our favorite polyglot dentist in Istanbul and visit a few places we hadn’t seen last time. The Turkish currency is in freefall and we can take advantage of it twice as much. This time, we’re taking advantage of Covid prices to stay right in the heart of the Karakoyneighborhood, 100 meters from the Galata Tower (Galateia Residence, Booking link) and 10 meters from a metro station. It’s a very lively neighborhood with tons of restaurants. Our apartment has two work desks, it’s super well heated and very quiet,…
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My Favorite Shopping Spots in Istanbul (Turkey)
The Turkish lira is losing so much value that Turkey in general, and Istanbul in particular, has become a shopper’s paradise. Before, Turkey was already full of treasures, but now even more so. Silk scarves I found Turkish silk to be quite good. Of course, it has nothing to do with Hermès scarves, but I really liked the colorful patterns here. The first address, for those who don’t want to travel far, is not far from Taksim. It’sIpek (Google Maps). You can find scarves starting at 90 TL and the really nice ones around 250 TL. You should ask if it’s 100% silk or mixed with satin. Everything is made…
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Where to get a custom solitaire ring in Istanbul? Review of Fth Jewelry (Turkey)
You know I’ve taken jewelry-making classes (at a beginner level) with several French artisans. I can make simple jewelry for myself, but these classes mainly help me spot and appreciate handmade pieces. During my latest trips to Istanbul, I discovered that the city is full of talented jewelry artisans. Whether at the Grand Bazaar or in a hidden gallery, the skill and craftsmanship of Istanbul’s jewelers are known in the small world of jewelry. Unfortunately, too few foreign tourists are aware of this. So I’ll share my little experience: how I got to watch live the making of a custom silver ring. Before leaving for Istanbul, my sister told me…
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Taking an Uber from Istanbul airport
Based on the reviews I’ve read, Istanbul taxis used to have a terrible reputation but it has improved significantly over the past few years (helped by the threat of ride-hailing apps); nowadays, it’s often possible to pay for a trip by card, for example. However, we generally prefer to use apps when possible: It’s worth noting that Uber was banned in Istanbul for several years. Uber is available again but only serves to hail official taxis, which I think is a great thing. Upon landing at Istanbul airport, we wanted to hail an Uber, especially since we hadn’t managed to withdraw any cash. The most important thing to know is…
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What to Visit / Do in Istanbul (Turkey)? 12 Ideas for a memorable extended weekend
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Digital Nomad in Istanbul (Turkey): Where to find an Apartment, Airbnb, Tips & Practical Travel Guide
Since we are digital nomads, Istanbul is the 3rd city where we have a lot of trouble finding a decent apartment (with Seoul and Osaka). The apartments we see on Airbnb are either too crowded, too dark, or too expensive and badly located. So we are going to write you here a small guide for digital nomads like us Istanbul Plan Istanbul is really huge, so I’ll just introduce you to the central part, what interests you the most in Istanbul Many tourists cross a bridge (Galata for the most part) and exclaim: I am in Asia! when it isn’t true. It isn’t because you cross a bridge that it…
