Marseille (France): a very nice weekend
3rd passage for Jb and I in this city with a singing accent, but it will be the first time that we really make tourism there.
The trip went well despite the cancellation of our trains due to the SNCF strike two days before. We were able to arrange to take another train with reserved seats.
First day
The AirBnb reserved by JB looks like an Ikea showroom, fully equipped for a pleasant stay in the heart of Marseille. The minimalist decoration only reminds us that we can live with very little. I discover the large windows & shutters of the South as well as a opposite to make Stéphane Plaza pale. The choice is simple: either you show everything to your neighbors, or you close the shutters like everyone else. If you don’t have an Airbnb account yet, use our referral link to get up to 50€ discount (more info).
Very tired after 3h30 of train, we opt for a light program: Stroll to the Old Port of Marseille and dinner at the Bistrot L’Horloge whose modern decoration we liked a lot
The Virgin Mojito has been prepared to perfection. The “cochonne” salad and the duck breast “trapper style” validated our choice. All this for 35 euros
Second day
Visit for me while JB works (rhaaa too hard life)
Direction Fort Saint-Jean near the MUCEM (bus 60, 82 stop Capitainerie) for a panoramic view of the old port of Marseille. I particularly like the metal footbridge.
Visit of the esplanade and the Sainte-Marie Cathedral whose facade is under construction. The cathedral is really huge and well located. A paying exhibition on Saint Francis of Assisi (4 euros) surely allows to finance these works. This is the only reason why I paid because … how to say? After the exhibition, I still don’t know who it is.
The matchstick model of the Cathedral attracted the attention of all mini-tourists (myself included)
Copious and royal lunch at the Palais de la Major, just at the foot of the Cathedral (the logo of the Michelin Guide caught my attention, but it was by pushing the door that I validated my choice 100%).
The Beef Tartar is half prepared, and accompanied by vegetables that aren’t well seasoned enough. But the potatoes were delicious. All for 19 euros.
Because of the wind, no boat could go to the Château d’If or the calanques that weekend. Instead, I passed in front of the Palais de la Justice (a good book = quiet afternoon), then to the Palais du Pharo (bus 83 stop Le Pharo) and then walked to Fort Saint-Nicolas (closed).
On the way, I was followed by a gentleman with a red face but I was able to lose him by going around a truck. Note for later: Technique applicable or not depending on the average speed of the individual and the shade of red on his face.
No 4-leaf clover for today
About ten pictures later, direction the beach (bus 83 stop La Plage) to watch the apprentice surfers breaking their face in the water hihihi
Bus 83 runs along the coast. Between the Old Port and the Beach, the view is magnificent. One can stop at many places of unparalleled romanticism. I spotted the Pullmann Palm Beach with a bar overlooking the sea. To note for the next trip.
I meet up with JB after his long day of training for a dinner at Toinou’s, where you can compose your seafood platter as you wish. On the wall of the restaurant are displayed many diplomas and awards of the boss as well as photos of the personalities. The service is top for a self-service.
Third day
After a well-deserved morning sleepover for JB, we went to lunch at La Cantinetta during Julien’s class, advised by Thierry. The good dishes at small price and the superb garden delighted us.
Then follows a quick visit to the store “Marseille in the Box”, one of the few to sell real Marseille soap. The owner, very nice, explained us what a real Marseille soap was. If you want real Marseille soap (72% oil, 0 perfume), choose one of the four following brands: le Sérail, Maurius Fabre, Savonnerie du Midi or Fer à Cheval.
Direction the Intercontinental Hotel for a small drink with a view of Notre-Dame la Garde. I recommend the hot chocolate of the house! I didn’t have the opportunity to test the tea time offer (tea + pastry) but you should know that it is proposed between 3pm and 6pm. The hotel is used to see tourists squatting on its terrace (without consumption) so don’t hesitate to go up the stairs.
Afterwards, a walk in the Panier neighborhood with its postcard lanes.
We saw a family confusing historical monument and AirBnb. They were about to enter a church with their suitcases full before quarrelling about why and how their GPS brought them to the wrong place.
JB and I returned to MUCEM before taking the 60 bus to Notre-Dame la Garde. In spite of the rain and the wind, we spent a little time there but we were in a hurry to come back downtown because it started to be cold.
The mint tea in the store in front of our AirBnb comforted us well. The meeting with the beautiful Smirael, capricious and curious, is just icing on the cake.
We had dinner at Les Arcénaux in a room full of books. The bouillabaisse with rock fish looked well made but we do not like this dish. On the other hand, the starter was delicious.
Fourth day
Chased out of our Airbnb at 10am, we had the suitcase kept at the station for 5 euros. Direction the Palais Longchamp for a little walk among joggers and families, before spending a little time in the Vallon des auffes, always according to Thierry’s advice. The “hidden” swimming pool looked too good as well as the restaurants of this small fishing village.
Not having reserved, we have to be satisfied with a small brewery near the Pharo. The room was awful but the waitress was smiling and nice. Finally, the food was good. Note for later: never judge the content of the plate by the decoration of the restaurant. And a simple and short menu is a pledge of quality/freshness.
As we got out of the subway at the station, we gave our daily transportation tickets to two lucky people queuing to buy them. It often happens that we too receive, from complete strangers, tickets for the Paris Fair, Parisian subway tickets… kindness calls for kindness.
This is how our long weekend in Marseille ends. We liked to make tourism there even if the weather was not clement.
How to get there
By OuiGo (from 10€), iDTGV or TGV
In Marseille, we simply bought a 72h transport ticket (10€)
Useful links
- Airbnb Le Petit Thubaneau 3: https: //www.airbnb.fr/rooms/8705958
- Airbnb sponsorship link: https: //jsdn.fr/airbnb
- Restaurant Le Palais de la Major : http://www.palais-de-la-major-restaurant-marseille.com/
- Restaurant La Cantinetta: http: //www.restaurantlacantinetta.fr
- Restaurant Les Arcénaux : http://www.les-arcenaulx.com/
- Restaurant Toinou : http://www.toinou.com/marseille
- Souvenir store & real Marseille soaps – Marseille in the Box : http://www.marseilleinthebox.com/
