Santiago – San Pedro de Atacama: 24 hours by bus.

After having suffered from the 26 hours of bus between El Calafate and Bariloche, this time we divide the path in two: Santiago – Copiapo (12h) then Copiapo – San Pedro de Atacama (12h).

Copiaco is where 33 miners were trapped in the mines for 3 months. We arrived there at 8pm. The next day, at 8 am, we already leave for San Pedro de Atacama (2500m of altitude), one of the oasis of the Atacama desert, the most arid in the world.

What I didn’t know was that even with all the chances on my side, these 12 hours of bus were going to be very hard for me. Driving in the middle of the desert (but only at 24°C because of the altitude) isn’t a pleasant experience. I hydrate myself thoroughly but I still manage to be KO when I arrive in San Pedro de Atacama. Added to that are meals on the road not so nourishing (empanadas full of oil, 2-3 bottled juices), a mountain sickness following the 2500m rise in only 3.5 hours and what was supposed to happen happened: vomiting all night.

Fortunately, we have a private room because all the dorm beds are already taken, the only person I disturbed was JB. The next day, I spend the whole day in bed while JB is busy making me tea, rice soup, buying fruit juices..

To be on the safe side, JB still writes to his nurse mom and a doctor friend to describe the symptoms in case they think of something more serious. A French nurse I met at the hostel is also interested in my case (she’s very kind!). All three confirm that it is mountain sickness. I believe to be the only person to have the mountain sickness at only 2500m! Neither the coca leaves nor the medicines taken BEFORE getting on the bus helped.

As a result, being completely knocked out for 1.5 days and weak for the remaining 2.5 days, I only saw from San Pedro de Atacama the inside of the youth hostel.

Practical advice

We don’t talk about it much but San Pedro de Atacama (2500m) is a rather dangerous destination for those who suffer from mountain sickness like me. From this city, except to return to the sea, all directions take you to altitudes above 3500m:

• San Pedro de Atacama -> Salta (Argentina) : crossing a pass at 4800m
• San Pedro de Atacama -> Uyuni Salt Desert 3 days by jeep: crossing a pass at 5000m on the 1st day and first night in a glacial hostel at 4500m
• San Pedro de Atacama -> Calama -> Uyuni by bus (11h) : probably the coolest path, going from 2500m to only 3500m
• San Pedro de Atacama -> Excursions to the lagoons: passage to 4000m or more in one day

I did my research before coming so I was well prepared. I even came here by bus on purpose to acclimatize faster, instead of taking the plane directly to Bolivia. I considered buying portable oxygen tanks but no pharmacy had them (neither in Santiago nor in San Pedro).

Thus, despite my precautions and taking medication before coming here, I still suffered from mountain sickness. The only thing left for me to do before going up higher (i.e. to Bolivia) is to stay in San Pedro de Atacama until I am perfectly acclimatized.

Sitting on the bus didn’t help me either. To aid digestion, I was advised to massage my stomach in a clockwise direction and to breathe through my stomach.

I take this opportunity to give you two recipes in case of vomit/diarrhea/gastro: (1) 1 liter of water with 9g of salt and a little sugar (2) a c.a.s of rice to be cooked in 1 liter of water, until the rice seeds become huge. The result is a soup. Add a little salt and drink it all.

Everyone reacts differently

Most travelers can bear the altitude in San Pedro de Atacama very well and make San Pedro de Atacama -> Salar de Uyuni by jeep in joy and happiness. But as Lonely Planet warns, out of the 6 passengers, there is always one for whom it is a nightmare. My article isn’t intended to scare you, but to give more information about this destination, for which I only got feedback from people who do not suffer from mountain sickness.

For information, not to go too fast, I chose to go to Uyuni from San Pedro de Atacama by local bus, then visit the salt desert with an agency (one day trip from Uyuni). Thus, I only climb from 2500m to 3500m – in quiet mode (more info here).

However, despite a week of acclimatization in San Pedro de Atacama, several days at 3500m in Uyuni, I still ended up knocked out in Potosi at 3900m (but no vomit this time here phew). If you’re not used to high attitude like me, take your time.