[Review] Niod NAAP Non-Acid Acid Precursor 15%, an Exfoliant without AHA/BHA/PHA
Well, this will be my last article on NIOD, because I’ve already bought half of the products from this brand, I need to stop at some point 😉 And also, I only have one face, and one suitcase, I need to calm down.
I didn’t plan to buy this product at first, but after my skin barrier got damaged, I stopped all acids. I tried 2 products from NIOD and liked them. I can’t stand not having an exfoliant in my routine, so I gave NAAP a chance.
At first, I didn’t even want to write an article about this product because NOTHING happened during 2 weeks of diligent use. But from the 3rd week, I noticed that I no longer had texture on my chin (which was usually invaded by microcysts clogging pores that wouldn’t go away at all). That’s when I thought “ah!! another article to write”.
Let’s keep it quick.
Brandon Truaxe, the creator of DECIEM (and NIOD by extension), doesn’t like acids at all. He considers it extremely aggressive for your skin to have to fight against inflammations caused by acid at regular intervals. He prefers either very heavy treatments, but done once and for all, rather than exfoliating every 2-3 days… Even if the skin looks better afterwards, in the long run, it will age faster.
So, his idea is to offer an exfoliant that contains no acids or retinol, but provides the same results as acids and retinol IN THE LONG TERM
By that, I mean: less or even 0 texture, glow +++.
However, it is NOT a product that boosts cell renewal, having effects on acne – like what retinol could bring. It is NOT an anti-acne product.
Packaging, Texture & Scent
DECIEM products come in glass bottles to minimize ecological impact, and NIOD glasses are always tinted. I have no complaints about the bottle, but the pipette is a big #fail.
The texture feels like a cream, but more liquid. When you pick up the product with the pipette, it gets everywhere. And when you screw the pipette back on, some product overflows and dirties the bottle. Many recommend buying the NIOD pump, more suitable for the product’s texture. Survival 0 comes with a pump, I don’t know why NAAP doesn’t have one. Weird.
On the other hand, 0 stinging, 0 side effects. NOTHING happens upon application. You really wonder if this serum is effective lol because I’m used to using acids that tingle. Anyway, I like its scent.
Out of all the NIOD products I’ve tested, this one is the hardest to be absorbed by the skin. There’s a slightly shiny film left behind. It’s not bothersome since this product can only be used in the evening. But yeah, it’s less enjoyable to use than the others.
The order of application
NIOD products are highly concentrated, I use 4 drops each time. The order of application is in the photo (from left to right)
Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Ethyl Linoleate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3, Yeast Extract, Soy Amino Acids, Bisabolol, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides, Lecithin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 60, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sodium Salicylate, Citric Acid, Sodium Chloride, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.
So, for the first time, the brand doesn’t explain what the 15% in the product name refers to. 15% of what? Of active ingredients? We don’t know.
To sum up the blabla on the official website:
- this product contains good bacteria (probiotics) that push the skin to produce its own acids (the famous acids that exfoliate the skin).
- Two forms ofamino isolates work on the skin texture (as any retinoid would have).
- A bio-fermented oligopeptide takes care of exfoliation of the skin (better than AHA).
- And other active ingredients ensure skin barrier protection and water retention.
Basically, everything is effective without being harsh on the skin.
Results
For 2 weeks, NOTHING happened. I use it every other night. “The advantage” of NIOD products is that they cost so much that even the most impatient are forced to use them for at least a month before deciding to stop or get a refund.
And then, from the 3rd week, I started to get my money’s worth. Yay! The purge caused by The Ordinary’s AHA BHA left me with textures/microcysts that didn’t want to leave/come to the surface. With NAAP, from the 3rd week, they came to the surface and instead of creating a mess, the pimples were non-inflammatory (i.e., they could be removed very easily without leaving a mark). Then, with the help of CAIS 2, these pimples heal faster, in 2-3 days.
Then, the area around the chin starts to get rid of its texture too. The gunk comes to the surface, and with two cotton swabs, I can’t get them out whereas usually, the pores are simply closed forming a small bubble and you can’t clean them.
So:
- no, it doesn’t give the same effects as AHA/BHA. These acids react immediately while NAAP takes about 2 weeks to react.
- no, it doesn’t have the same effect as retinol either. The retinol from Drunk Elephant gives me great skin the next day (you can see it when I use retinol vs. when I don’t).
But my skin, which is very sensitive right now, really likes it. The only downside of this product is the film it leaves on the skin.
I think if you can’t use acids (if you have rosacea for example or very thin skin or your skin barrier is damaged), NAAP is for you!
I’m going to finish the bottle and then I’ll see if I go back to the acids I already have. (I paid a lot for them so I don’t want to throw them away, ugh, I know it’s not very Marie Kondo of me).
Where to buy?
€42 for 30ml (Deciem link) or €31.96 i.e. -20% with the code OCTOBER20 on Lookfantastic (link). I really recommend buying the NIOD pump for better use.
note: On Deciem, you can return the product within 365 days after purchase (even if the product is half used, more info. This is not the case with Lookfantastic.
