In Search of Used Books in Rouen (France): Travel Diary
After Chartres, I take the train to go to Rouen. If I had known, I would have spent half a day in Illiers-Combray before going to Rouen, but that will be for next time. There’s no direct train between Chartres and Rouen, so I have to change trains at Versailles-Chantier.
Part 1: Travel Journal
Part 2: Practical Tips
Part 1: Travel Journal
I’ve been to Rouen many times; you can read my previous posts here, here, here , and and there. We spent 2.5 months in Rouen right after lockdown, and it’s still a fond memory for me.
I chose accommodation in the city center on Rue de la République, but I misread the description. It’s just a private room in an old building, with a shared bathroom and kitchen. Luckily, my neighbors are rarely there and very discreet. I’d recommend it if you’re on a budget and have a small suitcase (4th floor, no elevator).
Ever since I bought a book from the Pléiade Collection, visited several printing museums , and took an interest in bookbinding, my passion for beautiful books has been sparked. I visited the Galerie Dior and saw a very beautiful (and old) Jules Verne book full of engravings.
So I take advantage of being in Rouen to look for a book from the same publisher, because the city center is pedestrianized and it’s perfect for discovering small shops and finding used books.
First, I head to the bookstore Brunet Elisabeth. Unfortunately, she doesn’t have the book I’m looking for, but she obviously knows what I’m talking about. She has really, really beautiful old books. It’s so tempting.
Librairie Rollon
There’s another bookstore I’ve walked past many, many times, but the books are in such impeccable condition that I never thought they were second-hand. Today, I happen to go into Librairie Rollon and discover that yes, all the books are second-hand, at very very good prices. We talk about Jules Verne because I spot a Hetzel edition that looks like the one I covet but with a green cover. Apparently, that color is very rare. The book is in excellent condition, with gilt edges and superb engravings.
Likewise, they don’t have the edition I’m looking for. But after chatting, we understand each other better, and the owner rummages in his back room and finds an edition that catches my eye: a Hetzel edition with gilt edges, colored engravings (!!). The only drawback is that the cover is blank, only the spine is gilt. He explains that since only the spine is visible on the shelf, the previous owner didn’t think it necessary to have decorations on the cover. That’s okay; after my bookbinding workshop, I’ll be able to decorate the cover myself if I want.
It’s “Journey to the Center of the Earth”, which I was looking for. My grandfather often told me about this novel, saying that many things described in Jules Verne’s novels were more or less realized, except the journey to the center of the Earth. In the Hetzel edition, this novel was printed with “Five Weeks in a Balloon”. I’m very happy with my purchase because even the digital version at the BnF had only black-and-white engravings, not colored like mine. This book cost me €65
On top of that, there’s a huge surprise: its previous owner had cut out a newspaper article about the novel, from when a movie inspired by it came out.
I highly recommend going to Librairie Rollon. The two people I talked to were super knowledgeable, courteous, and interesting. They’re currently building their website so you can browse their huge stock online and buy from home: https://www.librairierollon.fr/. In the meantime, if you’re looking for a specific book, don’t hesitate to give them a call. Google Maps Link
Dame Cakes
On the same street is a restaurant/tea room I’d been wanting to try for ages. I discovered a well-hidden garden. The desserts are delicious, and they have a great tea selection. I really like it!
L’ODAS
This time, since it’s a weekday, I managed to get a reservation at the Michelin-starred restaurant L’ODAS. They have a surprise lunch menu, 3 courses for €50. Unfortunately, I have a cold, so my sense of smell is almost nonexistent. That greatly affects my ability to fully savor these dishes. I read somewhere that smell contributes 70% to flavor! Even without smell, I still have taste, and I found it good. If I weren’t sick, I think I would have found it delicious. The kitchen is clearly visible, which is great because I get to see how they reheat the plate before plating, how the chef manages the cooking, etc. I recommend it! Be sure to book in advance on their website.
Comptoir des Halles
It’s been ages since I’ve had oysters. Veules-les-Roses is only less than an hour from Rouen, so you can get fresh oysters at the Rouen market, near the Jeanne d’Arc church. The restaurant Comptoir des Halles is simple but everything is delicious: the oysters from Veules-les-Roses, as well as their fish soup.
The fruits and vegetables at the greengrocer’s are also great.
As is the black pork sausage at my favorite butcher’s. Boucherie Saint-Vivien
I feel like I’m coming home because there are so many places I already know, so many streets I’ve walked down hundreds of times. I really, really love this city. Interestingly, despite its beautiful and imposing cathedral, I find that the cathedral itself doesn’t have a particularly special energy; it’s the area behind the cathedral that’s magical, as well as the abbey church.
Rouen is one of the cities where I feel best. in the worldIf you don’t know it yet, come on a weekday, or on Saturday, when the city is lively. On Sunday, everything is closed, and it’s less charming. There are little shops, adorable restaurants, a cat café… really friendly bookshops, and everything can be done on foot. The train station is very close to the city center, truly perfect for a nice weekend getaway, or even a day trip from Paris to escape the Parisian gloom—Rouen is always a good idea!
Part 2: Practical Tips
- Train Chartres – Rouen: €53
- Recommended restaurants:
- L’ODAS, reservation required
- Comptoir des Halles, for seafood
- Dame Cakes
- Find your hotel in Rouen on Booking (link)
