Our stay in Istanbul in 2022 (Turkey)
Right after Dubai, we alternated between Istanbul and France from November 2021 to March 2022. We took the opportunity to go see our favorite polyglot dentist in Istanbul and visit a few places we hadn’t seen last time. The Turkish currency is in freefall and we can take advantage of it twice as much.
This time, we’re taking advantage of Covid prices to stay right in the heart of the Karakoyneighborhood, 100 meters from the Galata Tower (Galateia Residence, Booking link) and 10 meters from a metro station. It’s a very lively neighborhood with tons of restaurants. Our apartment has two work desks, it’s super well heated and very quiet, which is nice because winter in Turkey can be harsh. A few weeks before we arrived, there was a snowstorm and all of Istanbul woke up with 2 meters of snow and transportation issues (of course). From memory, we paid 52€/night. It’s the ideal apartment for a digital nomad couple, we love it <3
We also spent a few days at the hotel The Artisans (Booking link), a bit out of the way, but its comfort and facilities really suit our nomad lifestyle: long bar table, restaurant with panoramic views, high-speed internet, I love it. For a short business trip, I recommend it!
I keep going to the Turkish hammam (the best in the world). My favorite hammam Kılıc Ali Pasa Hamam, is all marble. It still has prices in TL (whereas many tourist spots set their prices in euros or dollars to avoid being impacted by the fall of the Turkish lira). So with my euro income, I feel super rich lol (570TL for the hammam and 590TL for a one-hour massage, knowing that during our stay the TL fluctuates a lot, 1€ = 15TL or 20TL).
Galata Tower
It’s our third time in Istanbul but our first time visiting it. You have to buy tickets in front of an old tram (about 10€/person). Better to visit during the week because there are tons of (Turkish) tourists on weekends. You go up via an elevator and come down via stairs (easy).
Considered one of the oldest towers in the world and one of Istanbul’s symbols, the Galata Tower was added to UNESCO’s tentative World Heritage list in 2013. Used as a fire lookout tower, it was also known as the Galata Fire Tower. The Galata Tower was first built by Byzantine emperor Justinianos in 507-508 AD. The Genoese rebuilt the current tower in 1348-49. It was damaged by an earthquake in the 1500s. After repairs, a bay window was added to the top floor. In 1831, the tower suffered another fire, two extra floors were added above the tower, and the top of the tower was covered with the famous cone-shaped roof covering. The building was last restored in 1967.
Those who get dizzy (like me) can still enjoy the view by staying inside. The 360-degree view is very satisfying and worth every penny.
In Istanbul, stray animals are always treated with great respect. Shopkeepers and locals feed and care for them. You see lots of cats and dogs sleeping on chairs reserved for customers. This little plump cat is my favorite. He’s very cuddly but absolutely insists on staying near this metal door during cuddles 😀 I don’t really know why.
Hagia Sophia
We came back to visit Hagia Sophia, now converted into a mosque. During prayer, the Christian images are hidden by veils and access to the upper floor is blocked. We didn’t stay long enough to see if access is possible after prayer. In any case, we saw that the heavy foot traffic had damaged the building, unlike what we saw last time. The only good news is that access is now free.
Çamlıca Mosque
It’s a visit we’d wanted to do for a long time, but it was only on a sunny day that we managed to motivate ourselves to take a taxi to the Çamlıca Mosque. Located on the Asian side, this mosque, inaugurated in 2019, is the largest in Turkey and dominates the surroundings. As soon as we get to a terrace or anywhere high up, we can spot it in the distance.
From the entrance, we’re amazed by the door and the many golden Arabic calligraphies. It looks like calligraphy was made for this language, it’s so beautiful. We asked our French-Turkish friend when we should visit mosques. He checked the prayer times and advised us to go early in the morning because right now, the prayer times are very close together in the afternoon.
It feels so good to visit such a beautiful mosque, without construction, without noise… because the beautiful old mosques are often under renovation and we really struggle to admire the complete architecture because of the scaffolding.
Through a small door, go out and walk around the mosque until you reach a place where you leave your shoes in lockers.
The interior is huge with several levels. Take the time to explore everything, you can get close to the calligraphies and get a full view of the mosque.
As everywhere, the prayer area is only accessible to men; women pray elsewhere, away from view.
The atmosphere here is exceptional, I really feel great here. I love it so, so much!
While we’re on the Asian side, we decide to go to a restaurant that menemen our friend really enjoyed. We take a taxi and get dropped off nearby. I notice a long line in front of a food truck. Intrigued, I join the queue too. When I hand over a 50 TL note, they signal that it’s free. An hour later, the truck is gone. We never quite figured out why they were giving out free food. It might be related to the rule that Muslims should give a small portion of their income to the poor. We feel a bit ashamed because we’re not poor, lol. Anyway, the people in line don’t look poor either. Oh well, we’ll make donations some other way to pay back this kind gesture.
Anyway, the vibe on the Asian side is amazing. There are tons of people, shops, jewelers… we don’t know where to look.
The ferry
We slowly make our way to the ferry to go back to the European side. This time, tourists on the upper deck are feeding seagulls by throwing bread, and for the whole twenty-minute ride, we’re followed by hundreds of birds. It was an unforgettable sight!
You can pay for the ferry with the same transport card used for the metro and tram. Just so you know, buying the card and adding credit isn’t intuitive on the machines. We highly recommend buying the card at a newsstand; they don’t charge extra.
As soon as we get off the ferry, we’re drawn by an irresistible smell of grilled fish… and then we discover a fish market we’ve never seen before. Wow! The small fish come directly from the hundreds of fishermen on the bridge right next to it.
And of course, stuffed mussel stalls are everywhere in the city. Now they have different prices by size: 2 TL for the small ones, 3 TL for the big ones. JB dreams about them at night and they’re his little “dessert” in the evening, even though they’re salty.
Shopping
As for me, I did a ton of shopping. Not for myself, but for my girlfriends.
I told you about a ring made to order right before my eyes by a Turkish jeweler. I highly recommend the experience, especially if you’re looking for engagement or wedding rings.
After discovering a shop selling pearls & natural stone jewelry on the cheap, I got orders from my friends and brought it all back to France, haha 😀
The shop is called Taş Sandığı and there’s one not far from Taksim, and that’s where I went. Unfortunately, it’s not on Google Maps, so head to this location (Google Maps), and on the left you’ll see Taş Sandığı.
Pearl necklaces (real cultured pearls) cost around 10€, while bracelets are 2€-3€ depending on the stones. I bought some for a friend who knows her natural stones well, and she told me some of the stones I picked at random were quite rare and better quality than what she could find in Europe. They accept card payments. Avoid weekends because everyone’s fighting to fill their basket 😀 You’ll also find roll-ons, guashas… it’s crazy! Good thing I’m not into stones, otherwise I couldn’t resist those crazy prices!
Restaurants
Here are a few new places we’ve discovered. I won’t give you the prices because due to inflation in Turkey, prices will vary wildly in the coming days and months. Anyway, converted to euros, you can eat very well for 5-10€ per person.
Bilice Kebap
This huge platter doesn’t cost much, and it’s delicious. We went several times because I’m such a fan of their chicken wings menemen and lamb skewers.
Restaurant Mabou
This restaurant is our go-to canteen. They have a 3- or 4-course menu that changes daily. It’s homemade with love. The cuisine is fusion, and you eat well and discover lots of new flavors. The place is tiny, so come early. Slight disappointment with desserts, though.
Barnathan Cafe & Brasserie
This café/restaurant is our favorite spot for a weekend brunch. The all-you-can-eat buffet on the terrace isn’t great (at all), but it might be worth doing once for the lovely view of the Galata Tower. We prefer ordering à la carte downstairs. I love their menemen (tomato omelette) and hot chocolate, and JB really likes their salmon salad.
You can always go up to the terrace for photos after a nice meal downstairs.
Café Didar
Not far from my dentist’s office, it’s where I go to comfort myself after a long appointment. The menemen is so, so good.
Develi Nisantasi
Near the luxury shops and hotels is this very popular but beautifully decorated restaurant where you can taste a multitude of Turkish dishes. We went with our French-Turkish friend who ordered for us. I don’t know the names of the dishes we tried, but everything was good. I think you can go there and just order at random.
Lebanese brunch at Arada Cafe
JB thinks it’s super super good. I’m a bit less convinced (I’m picky), but the portion is enough to feed a whole family.
Ismiz Gucumu Menemen
On the Asian side, you can have menemen with various ingredients. I’ve never seen a menu with so many choices of menemen. Don’t hesitate to pick at random, everything is good anyway.
Cecconi’s Istanbul
It’s not Turkish, but we really enjoyed the open kitchen and the dishes here.
Nobu Istanbul
It’s a chain, but the Nobus in other cities around the world are so expensive that we preferred to try this one in Turkey. Nestled in the Ritz-Carlton hotel, the decor is gorgeous, and we even have a nice view of the stadium next door. I recommend the “surprise” lunch menu for €38
I hope you enjoyed this travel journal and that it makes you want to visit Turkey.
To check out our articles on Istanbul and Turkey, click here.
Planning a trip to Turkey? Our partner Get Your Guide offers entry tickets and excursions with French-speaking guides at very reasonable prices. Click here to see what they offer and book online.
