[Road trip in Iceland] Day 8: Dettifoss, Myvatn & the cave in Game of Thrones
The day starts with 3h10 of non-stop driving from the eastern fjords (see days 6 & 7) to the North of Iceland. Luckily we had a good breakfast today at the guesthouse. The fuel tank is almost full, let’s go!
I drove 1h20, on gravel roads, then I had to climb a pass at 90km/h, being overtaken by drivers who were not always very nice (they were too fast). That quickly finished me for the day, JB took over for the remaining 2 hours, very boring because the snowy landscapes are beautiful but monotonous.
Part 1: Travel Diary Part
2: Practical Tips
Part 1: Travel Diary
Itinerary
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About halfway there, we spot this exceptional viewpoint at 360°C. The pictures don’t show all the beauty of the place, it’s really an exceptional place, the drone was invented for this kind of places.
Stop 1: Dettifoss
We park in the parking lot (type Dettifoss West Side) and discover that the path leading to the waterfall is snow-covered.
Apparently there is another parking on the other side of the waterfall: East Side, but the road is closed in winter so we have only one choice: the West Side.
We put on our boots and crampons. I sincerely think that the hiking boots would have been enough, but they helped us a lot when the path became very very muddy (it would have dirtied the shoes).
After a 20 minutes walk following the beacons (the beacons have been planted then replanted, I think there is 1m of snow under our feet), we arrive at this first viewpoint, overlooking the famous Dettifoss waterfall, the most powerful in Europe. Unfortunately, we can’t go down to the bottom and see its power but we feel small drops of water while we are super far away.
Second viewpoint, where we can see that the river doesn’t look that deep, and yet, it gives a very very high fall.
Stop 2: Selfoss
You have to follow the arrows to a 2nd waterfall, which looks big on the pictures but it is only 5 meters high. It is at 2km from Dettifoss and it is necessary to walk (no other solution). Finally it is it that we hear more than Dettifoss ahahah
If you come in the summer, you can continue on Route 862 and explore Asbyrgi Canyon. In winter, part of this road (after Dettifoss) is closed so we couldn’t go there.
Stop 3 : Hverir
A feeling of déjà vu. Indeed, this area full of fumaroles and angry mud puddles reminds us too much of the Wai o tapu park in New Zealand, except that here, everything is free.
It looks like a pressure cooker or a kettle… The smell is horrible, like rotten eggs, typical of sulfur..
Stop 4: Grjotagja Cave
It is here where hides, under enormous rocks, a hot spring. Before, one could swim there, but because of an increasing volcanic activity, the water became boiling. Since then, it has become regulated, but tourists have been coming en masse – since its appearance in the Thrones’ Game series – a very hot scene between Ygritte and Jon Snow.
This cave has been temporarily closed because of the non-respect of tourists (faecal matter found here and there, serious people !!). It is in a private property, a little respect please.
There are two entrances, but the easiest one is on the left side of the tree (see picture). According to the fans, only the entrance to the cave appears in the series, but the cave was filmed in the studio – which makes sense because it is tiny.
Yes, it’s really very small (able to hold 5 people standing) and it’s very dark. When you take the picture with a camera (or a smartphone), the water appears very blue, but in reality, in the half-light, you can’t see the blue color, the water is rather gray and worrying. JB wants to swim too much, but when I told him about the doubtful cleanliness of this cave due to the tourists’ behavior, it calmed him down straight away.
Note: the water isn’t stagnant, it communicates with an underground network … but it is forbidden to swim in it.
Stop 4: Myvatn Nature Baths
We retrace our steps to go to a spa equivalent to the Blue Lagoon. It is called Myvatn Nature Baths. In the distance we see the geothermal plant, which is used to produce heat & hot water for the homes – drawing it directly from underground.
I show you the official photo because it is forbidden to take pictures. This bath is less hot than at Blue Lagoon, smaller too, but there are less people too – it looks cleaner too. Entrance costs 4500kr./person, towels (and bathing suits) aren’t provided but can be rented (for very expensive, between 6€ and 12€). So come with your towel, your swimsuit, your flip-flops.
The view of Lake Myvatn and the mountains is breathtaking. There is also a hammam on site
As everywhere in Iceland, you must shower before, naked before putting on your swimsuit and enter the pool (because they do not use chemicals to purify the water).
I still prefer Blue lagoon because the water is clearly warmer and it’s bigger too. The silica mask bar etc. is missing here. I still advise you to do both because it is great for the skin (it is very soft afterwards).
Surroundings
In summer, you can also explore the surroundings of Krafla (visit the thermal power station, explore the lava fields…) we didn’t go there because I was very very very tired after this morning’s driving – and I find the thermal water makes me very tired, I don’t know why.
Tonight we sleep in a guesthouse that is organized like a factory. No welcome, just a “here’s your key”. It looks like a youth hostel with private rooms.
Our next article, it’s this way
Part 2: Practical Tips
Budget
- Entrance to the Myvatn Nature Baths: 4500kr/person
- Hotel : Elda Guesthouse(link Booking) in Myvatn, 70€, room with washbasin
