[Reflection] #17 Old Money, Quiet Luxury & New Money

I’m discovering this “Old Money” clothing trend very late, and I even think “quiet luxury” is no longer in style. I only hear about it now because I’m looking to refresh my winter wardrobe, and since I no longer go to stores, I’m only finding out now.

A friend told me that the “Old Money” trend started with Sofia Richie’s wedding, while others mention the series “Succession” and its “quiet luxury” aesthetic. Add to that recent scandals where consumers discover that Dior sells bags for $2,800 that cost only $57 to produce under horrible working conditions (Armani is also implicated). More troubling still, the prestigious “Made in Italy” hides a less flattering reality: Chinese artisans are recruited to come work in Italy, as locals shun factory work. Meanwhile, giants like Kering (Gucci) and Burberry are struggling, both on the stock market and in terms of sales. Some TikTokers discover that the famous Louis Vuitton “canvas” is fabric covered in plastic sold at the price of crocodile skin. Etc.

Despite some reservations, the “old money” trend brings welcome changes to our relationship with fashion:

1. A collective awakening: consumers are finally rejecting the idea of being “walking billboards,” understanding that true luxury does not lie in the ostentatious display of logos.
2. A return to quality: people are developing a growing interest in the quality of clothing. Even those with limited budgets are learning to spot quality pieces, whether in vintage or sometimes even in fast fashion. I really like the YouTube channel Shift Fashion Group (link) which analyzes t-shirts that cost $7 to produce all-inclusive and sell for $130.
3. The rediscovery of sustainable practices: the general public is discovering or rediscovering that it is possible to have clothes repaired, a practice long ingrained in “old money” habits. This approach not only preserves quality pieces but also values the work of repair artisans.
4. A democratization of knowledge: the “Old Money” community shares its knowledge more, allowing the general public to discover addresses, brands, and practices once reserved for a knowledgeable elite. I really like the videos by Kiki Astor, an “old money” turned “nouveau poor” (Instagram account). Or this Ukrainian new money woman who explains why everyone should set up a trust fund for their children (YouTube link).

However, this movement is not without its contradictions and excesses. In Athens, I observed a young woman whose outfit perfectly matched the “old money” aesthetic codes popularized on TikTok: camel coat, ivory top, no logos, pants with an ideal length. Yet, the poor quality of the fabrics betrayed her modest background. This situation perfectly illustrates the danger of wanting to appear what one is not.

Confusion also reigns among fans of “handmade” items. On Instagram, we see amateur seamstresses creating quilted clutches adorned with oversized logos. The consumer is disoriented: should we avoid all logos or accept some because it’s “handmade”? Prejudices persist, like the idea that a Western amateur seamstress would necessarily be more skilled than an Asian professional with a degree. In both cases, it’s “handmade”!! But apparently we prefer white hands 😀 not being able to evaluate the stitching line.

A deeper reflection on our society.

The enthusiasm for the ‘old money’ style reflects deep questions about our current society. First, it highlights our troubled relationship with consumption. As Hugo Jacomet points out in the podcast des Bâtisseurs, when we reduce a human being to their purchasing power, we turn them into a simple consumer, one among many in the mass.

What fascinates us about ‘old money’ culture is precisely this apparent liberation from the codes of modern consumption. Having nothing left to prove socially, these people seem to allow themselves to be authentic in their clothing choices. They don’t follow trends, don’t try to impress with logos, and prioritize lasting quality over the ephemeral. This approach seems to respond to a quest for authenticity in a society where identity is often defined by what you buy rather than who you are.

The sartorial art fits into this same search for authenticity. As Hugo Jacomet says, it ‘brings a bit of verticality back into a horizontal world’ – it allows the individual to rise above their mere ability to consume. The tailor Julien Scavini observes its physical manifestation: when his clients try on a bespoke jacket for the first time, their posture immediately transforms, as if the well-made garment restores their dignity.

This quest for meaning through clothing also reveals a society lacking in reference points. In a world where traditional values are fading, the ‘old money’ style may attract because it offers a framework, codes, and clear values: quality over quantity, timeless over ephemeral, authenticity over appearance. Hugo Jacomet of ‘Parisian Gentleman’ perfectly summarizes this opposition between the authentic and the superficial: ‘Sartorial art is precisely the antithesis of the big luxury brands that sell you plastic at the price of gold. […] The dominant color this season is the one I like.’ True elegance, isn’t it the freedom to be yourself, rather than blindly following society’s dictates?

Towards a more authentic approach

For those looking to develop an authentic personal style, several options are available to you:

1. Second-hand and vintage offer a great opportunity to acquire quality pieces. I really liked the book “The Curated Closet” (Amazon link) which helps define your style and colors while maintaining your identity, and recognize the quality of a garment.
2. For the more affluent, made-to-measure with artisans allows you to obtain unique and durable pieces, adaptable to the evolution of your silhouette because tailors will leave more margins than off-the-rack clothing.
3. Making it yourself represents an accessible alternative. Personally, I create my silver jewelry, my bags, my small leather goods, and I’m getting into making clothes. This approach not only allows me to create unique pieces, offer myself the best materials possible, but also to better appreciate the work of other artisans.

If I regularly address this topic on Instagram and on my blog, it’s not to campaign – I’m living my best life right now and don’t need to create unnecessary debate. It’s rather because my closeness with many artisans over all these years gives me a different perspective. I know very well the costs of raw materials, the cost of labor, recognize the best artisans… and I’m sure that everyone can afford BEAUTIFUL things. This “old money” trend, despite its excesses, is an excellent opportunity to find your own identity and regain your freedom.