What to do in Syracuse (Italy) in one day? Syracuse on Foot - Sicily Trip #1 (Italy)

We leave Valletta (Malta) bright and early and arrive in Pozzallo (Sicily) by ferry. I’ve been a bit off lately, so the trip planning is a bit botched. I should have opted for the €10 transport offered by the ferry company to get to Catania by bus, and from there, do a day trip to Syracuse. On the one hand, because there are more affordable hotels in Catania, and on the other, because it would have cost us less. But what’s done is done. Between Pozzallo and Syracuse, we simply paid for a shared taxi, €70 (two people with luggage) because the train times didn’t suit us.

Part 1: Travel Journal
Part 2: Practical Tips

Part 1: Travel Journal

Since arriving in Sicily, people have been staring at us non-stop (men and women), and even turning around on our path. It’s January 2023, and I don’t know if it’s still Covid-related (the Chinese are starting to come back to Europe, with fears of importing new variants), but I feel uneasy, even in danger. I don’t like it. It’s true there weren’t many Asian tourists at the moment (maybe 3 of us), I don’t know if they’re afraid I’ll cough on them, or if they’re wondering if an Asian has a soul like them, but it wasn’t pleasant being stared at all day.

This attitude of the Italians makes me a bit sad, because Syracuse has always been a dream for me. Ever since I listened to and loved the song Syracuse by Henri Salvador, I’ve always dreamed of setting foot there. It will take us time to visit all the places mentioned in that song. A true world tour.

I long to see Syracuse
Easter Island and Kairouan
And the big birds playing
Gliding their wings with the wind

See the Hanging Gardens of Babylon
And the palace of the Grand Lama
Dream of the lovers of Verona
At the summit of Mount Fuji

See the land of the morning calm
Go fishing for cormorants
And get drunk on palm wine
While listening to the wind sing

Before my youth fades away
And my springs are gone
I long to see Syracuse
To remember it in Paris

JB and I chose a hotel right across from the train station (Hotel Como, €47, Booking link) to make our later trip to Catania easier. In Italy, check-in is at 3 PM, but hotels are always very kind and try to give us the room earlier if it’s available. We were able to drop off our luggage there while waiting. This hotel is particularly kind to us because we got upgraded without asking <3 All over the city, and even in front of the station, there are places offering luggage storage for €1 an hour. I imagine people don’t usually stay overnight there.

Ortygia Island

Syracuse is a fairly large city, but the tourist attractions are concentrated on the island of Ortygia. Crossing one of the two bridges leading to the island, you’re immediately well received. On the left, the statue of Archimedes and the old Post Office. On the right, a very pretty reddish-orange building, and an anchor.

After crossing the bridge, it’s better, even if you’re motorized, to walk because many places are only accessible on foot or by bike.

La Salumeria – Fratelli Burgio

We’re hungry, so we first stop at the local market (which sells local products) before stopping at the restaurant La Salumeria – Fratelli Burgio, which highlights local products. The one next door has even more customers (and wait: Caseificio Borderi), I’ll let you choose. For Burgio, you can queue to buy sandwiches to go, or give your name to the very friendly lady on the right, and she’ll assign you a table. Despite the crowd, the service is fast and impeccable.

Here’s part of the menu, feel free to click on each photo for a larger view.

JB ordered a “land” board and I ordered a “land & sea” board. We also ordered a caprese di bufalo (tomato mozzarella salad) and a mozzarella sandwich. Except for the sandwich, whose bread JB wasn’t too keen on—he was hoping for a focaccia—the rest was fantastic. The marinated vegetables really add value to the cheeses and cured meats.

Fountain of Diana

We walked through alleys so narrow we wondered if it was a dead end… to get to the Fountain of Diana. Under the January sun, the statues look gilded. The square is smaller than in my imagination, but all the buildings around are very, very beautiful.

Piazza del Duomo

Just walk a little bit to get to the most beautiful square in the city.

Feel free to explore the street to the left of the cathedral; it offers a beautiful view too.

Access to the cathedral costs money (2€) but the interior is really worth it. While the interior is fairly plain for a cathedral, there is an area where the decor is very ornate. The most beautiful part is off-limits to photos and videos, so I can’t show you the splendor of the designs (the Last Supper and the trompe-l’oeil).

Saint Lucy’s Church

An extraordinary facade with a very feminine and well-lit interior. I really liked it too.

Everywhere, men’s and women’s heads are used as decorative items or useful objects. These pretty ceramic heads are said to be linked to a very sad tale: a woman whose lover turned out to be married (a real Don Juan) gets revenge by cutting off his head. His head, used as a pot for basil, a symbol of passion and royalty, yields such a beautiful plant that neighbors started making ceramic heads too. As plant/flower pots.

Arethusa Fountain

It’s a beautiful and very large fountain, populated with geese and ducks, and covered with papyrus plants. You can go down and walk along the edge of the fountain, but people are too absorbed by the beauty of the sea and sailboats.

It’s mid-afternoon (a Saturday) but the restaurants are still packed. The weather is nice and warm. The water is gorgeous, very clean.

Cala Rossa Beach

A two-minute walk later, we come across a very nice beach.

We go up an alley and come face to face with this charming French restaurant: “Le Vin de l’Assassin”. There are a few trendy decor shops in the same street.

Piazza S. Giuseppe, very picturesque, is turned into a parking lot. That’s a shame, because I really like the quiet, chill vibe of this place.

Well, our walk stops here because my feet hurt too much from unsuitable shoes (I forgot to change shoes at the hotel). After Syracuse, we went to Catania to see Mount Etna.

Part 2: Practical Tips

You should know that you can also continue on foot and visit the Maniace Castle at the end of the island.

The Greek Theatre (5th century BC), 5km away, is one of the largest in Antiquity. It’s where the first performance of Aeschylus’s The Persians took place. You can take a taxi or bus to get there. We couldn’t visit it because I was very tired, but we clearly had time. In the same archaeological park, there is the most beautiful tomb, attributed to Archimedes (but no one is sure, of course). Of course, in Syracuse, there are quite a few places named “Eureka” in reference to Archimedes 😀

Budget (January 2023)

Accommodation: Hotel Como, 47€ double room, breakfast (basic) included, Booking linkit’s not a luxury hotel, but the location opposite the station is very convenient. And the price is very affordable. Service is impeccable. For one night, it’s great.
Cathedral ticket: 2€
Lunch: 25€/person, but if you just get a board, count 14-15€
Train Pozzallo – Syracuse: 6.8€ (5 trains a day), journey time 1h6mn
Taxi Pozzallo – Syracuse: 70€ for two, journey time 45 minutes
Train Syracuse – Catania: 10.5€ (about fifteen departures a day), journey time 1h5mn