Visiting Malta by Car: Travel Diary 3/3
Let’s keep exploring Malta’s wonders by car. Today is December 23, 2022, and work is very, very quiet, so JB can take me to all the places still on my checklist. As usual, we’ll leave Valletta for last, when we have accommodation there, because it’s best explored on foot and by boat, not by car.
Part 1: Travel Journal
Part 2: Practical Tips
Part 1: Travel Journal
As usual, we rent our car from Hertz for 3 days, and this time it’s a bright red one that doesn’t go unnoticed.
I love Malta
After circling the globe three times, I’m hard to impress now, but Malta is an exception. It’s sunny 300 days a year, people speak English very well, the roads are great, the food is Italian (so delicious), there are plenty of beaches and coves, the water is beautiful, the island is tiny—you can cross it in 45 minutes—and you can go snorkeling almost anywhere… I absolutely love it.
I think in summer it must be pricier, and with limited parking, it would be a battle to find a spot, but in winter, between Malta and Montenegro, I can now handle the European cold without any problem!! I might lean a bit more towards Montenegro, because you can ski after just a 2-hour drive.
Malta is definitely my crush !! It’s such a shame that JB’s family lost their Maltese nationality. His great-grandfather was Maltese, his mother has a British passport (she doesn’t speak English and has visited Malta only once), and when Malta became independent, no one thought to reclaim the Maltese nationality. Given all the tax benefits for Maltese citizens, it’s such a loss, hahaha 😀
Popeye’s Village
Today we’re heading back to Popeye’s Village because I love it so much!!! Unsurprisingly, we’re surrounded by toddlers.
The village is almost functional, with a post office, a bar, a restaurant, a jeweler, etc. You can tour Popeye’s house, see his bed, his kitchen.
Hollywood is interested in Malta because they get tax breaks for filming here. At the village museum, you’ll see lots of posters of films shot in Malta.
There’s also a quirky house with a “trompe-l’œil” experience where you feel like you’re in a washing machine, seeing weird colors…
What I enjoy most are the mechanisms, and I was in for a treat because there’s a little workshop of elves making toys for Santa Claus!!! <3 So cute !
Even cuter is the model village!
I honestly thought they’d serve us spinach at the restaurant, but we only had a choice between a hot dog and a hamburger, not very tasty either. Disappointment!!! A myth shattered!
You can see that opposite the village, there’s a road leading down the cliff, but the waves have even destroyed the concrete!! This road is now closed to cars, but you can still walk.
The village was built for the Popeye film, so the houses aren’t meant to last forever. You can see many roofs and houses collapsing, and they constantly have to renovate. It’s quite small, so you can tour it in just 2 hours. There are Christmas activities, so the village is decorated for the season. Honestly, I really enjoyed it, but I think the value for money is not as good as Disneyland. If you’re short on time, it’s not a must-see. I think you can come by bus, but the stop is a bit far because I saw people walking from the junction with the main road.
Gaia Peace Grove
We take the car to go to Gaia Peace Grove, and along the way, there are many viewpoints to admire the cliffs.
I really like this beach; there are a few surfers in the water, and the place is so beautiful that I made a little reel for Instagram.
Marsaxlokk
We then head to Marsaxlokk, and since Christmas is near, we treat ourselves to oysters and seafood at La Capanna. Unsurprisingly, the oysters come from France because they’re the best in the world, and I go for Gillardeau (surprisingly, it’s easier to find Gillardeau in Malta than in France, haha). It’s truly delicious, but the restaurant owner has the annoying habit of asking me if it’s good while my mouth is full. So, delicacy is in the little details, and a good waiter should have it; otherwise, they can ruin the whole experience despite delicious food.
There’s a market in Marsaxlokk where you can supposedly buy freshly caught fish, but we didn’t arrive at the right time. It’s a picturesque little village with many restaurants and benches to sit on, but parking is a nightmare 😀
St Peter’s Pool
We then visit St Peter’s Pool, where a brave tourist is doing dives.
I manage to capture some beautiful photos here and there, including one of the island Filfla bathed in sunlight, like a “gift from heaven”.
There are two photos that constantly illustrate Valletta on Pinterest, and I couldn’t locate the spots at all. After asking the Maltese (and getting irrelevant answers), I had to carefully study Google Maps, spotting all the churches that could match. JB drove me to check each of the spots I’d identified, and I finally found them!!! I’m putting them here in case you’re as obsessed as I am.
This is Knisja Parrokkjali tal-Imsida
This one is Kalkara Port. There’s construction going on, which is why it’s easy to walk past without noticing.
In short, it was a sunny, mild, simple Christmas, just the way I like it. No presents, because JB and I have everything we need, just a nice restaurant and interesting visits 🙂
Part 2: Practical Tips
- Car rental at Hertz St Julian’s costs €28/day
- Gas is cheap compared to France (-50%) but you have to know how to drive on the left
- Popeye’s Village: €15/person
