[Review] AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution from The Ordinary, a TikTok phenomenon

The Ordinary

The Ordinary was created by the company DECIEM, which specializes in skincare with highly concentrated active ingredients.

The products are aimed at skincare addicts who know how to read labels and layer active ingredients – because the products are not fully formulated. You often have to use one product, then another, then another… to have your complete routine.

Ingredients of AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution

Glycolic Acid, Aqua (Water), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Sodium Hydroxide, Daucus Carota Sativa Extract, Propanediol, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Salicylic Acid, Potassium Citrate, Lactic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Citric Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Xanthan gum, Polysorbate 20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol.

As its name suggests, this product is a peel (or chemical exfoliant) containing 32% acid : 30% AHA and 2% BHA

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHA) ( (Glycolic/Lactic/Tartaric/Citric Acids) exfoliate the surface of the skin to awaken radiance and even out skin tone. 30% is an extremely high concentration. It can not only irritate the skin but also burn it, which is why its use must be extremely cautious.

Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHA) (Salicylic Acid) also exfoliate the skin and decongest pores.

What’s it for?

This concentrated 32% solution provides the skin with deep exfoliation to reduce the appearance of blemishes and boost skin radiance.
This formula also improves skin texture and reduces the appearance of fine lines over time.

This formula contains a derivative of Tasmanian pepper berry to reduce the irritation often associated with the use of fruit acids. Depending on the harvest time, the serum’s color varies (it can be very red to slightly less red, without being fake for all that).

This formula also contains hyaluronic acid, pro-repair Vitamin B5, as well as black carrot with antioxidant properties.

This product is reserved for:

• skin with texture
• skin with microcysts

This product IS NOT reserved for:

• skin with active acne
• skin with any injury
• sensitive skin
• peeling skin
• skin not used to acids

Usage

• Cleanse the face and wait until the skin is dry.
• Do not use on wet skin.
• Apply evenly with fingertips to the face and neck avoiding the eye contour. Leave on for up to 10 minutes.
• Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. This formula should not be used on sensitive, damaged, or peeling skin.
• Avoid contact with the eyes and the eye contour during application and rinsing. This low-viscosity solution is intended for use as a mask. Do not not leave it on for more than 10 minutes.
• It is not not recommended to use this product more than 2 times per week. Limit the frequency and duration of skin contact with the product. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a doctor. Use only as directed on intact skin. It is advisable to perform a patch test before use.

Patch test

At first, I wanted to throw it in the trash because a week after buying it, I came across a video from a so-called dermatologist of Indian origin saying that 30% AHA is too strong for dark skin. Turns out it was false because another dermatologist I respect confirms that glycolic acid is not the enemy of dark skin, and she doesn’t know where that rumor comes from.

So, even though I’m used to acids, I rather used a product concentrated in PHA, an exfoliating acid gentler than AHA and BHA. I was still ultra cautious with this one.

I first started on my hands, before doing a patch test behind my ear. And each time, I left it on for only 4 minutes, timer in hand.

After the peel, my left hand is smoother and softer, but that’s it. You can see it’s not whiter, for example.
And good thing! If it had changed color vs. the right hand, it would have been very concerning.

So, I did a patch test behind the ear, for 4 minutes.

Two days later, still no reaction to report, the area looks normal—not red, not whiter, just normal.

Results

So I applied the product to half of my face (the other half still has two pimples healing, so we’re leaving them alone).
On perfectly dry skin.Why? If the skin is wet, the acids can be carried even deeper into the skin, which is very dangerous.

The liquid looks kind of viscous, but on the skin it becomes totally liquid. I thought I’d just apply two drops, but it took four drops to cover half of my face.

It stings a bit, even though the area in question has absolutely no wounds or recent pimples. I can’t quite figure out why it stings in one spot and not the other, because both spots seem to have the same texture and the same issues.

Some people say it foams a little.Actually, it foams just a tiny bit when you apply it to the skin. Once you leave it on, it stops foaming.

After 4 minutes, I remove it with a soft towel and lots and lots of lukewarm water. Luckily, it comes off easily—no need to scrub (that would have been the worst).
Right after, I apply a manuka honey mask, which is extremely repairing and ultra hydrating: Aura by Antipodes (Sephora link). I leave on a very, very generous layer.

Results:

• The pros:
  • The pores around my nose are almost clean. There are hardly any sebaceous filaments left.
  • The textured area on my chin and cheek has lost 20% of its texture. To the touch, it’s much smoother right after the peel, and even smoother the next day.
  • Dark spots fade faster—that’s really noticeable
• The only downside, which I get every time I use high-concentration AHA: 2-3 whiteheads pop up within 2 hours. These are easy to get rid of and don’t leave marks, so it’s fine. But a few days later, I also get microcysts.

In short, this peel has an immediate effect. It doesn’t necessarily work on glow, but it seems effective on texture. It doesn’t show up in photos at all, so there’s no point in me posting a before/after here. But since I only did half my face, I was able to touch both sides and confirm that the peeled side is smoother.

However, on acne-prone skin like mine, a few days later the BHA brings up hidden gunk from deep within to the surface, which turns into microcysts that are a pain to get rid of. Either they come up and turn into red bumps, or they disappear on their own, but in my case, I end up with red, non-pustular bumps—it’s awful. This just confirms once again that my skin doesn’t like overly concentrated acids.

I was thinking I’d keep using it once every two weeks, for 4 minutes each time. actually no, these microcysts and then red bumps are getting on my nerves, and I’ve found a more effective product for texture, without negative side effects
Unlike Caucasian skin, I have Asian skin, which is more sensitive to the effects of AHA & BHA
And since it’s still nice out in Italy, I’d rather use it sparingly or not at all (even though I’m already slathering on SPF every day)

So, I hope you enjoyed this review.

And what if I diluted it to make it less strong?

Nooooon! The products are formulated to work at such a concentration. If you find it too strong, there are other gentler chemical exfoliants that can be used every other day with Biologique Recherche, for example.

Price & where to buy

This product is often out of stock.
You can buy it for the modest sum of €7.2 ~> The Ordinary link <~ and here’s the link Sephora, and the link Lookfantastic you never know…

If it really is out of stock everywhere in France and the UK, know that if you have a friend in Italy, the product is always in stock there.
At worst, you can also opt for its Korean dupe: Red Peel by So Natural, less aggressive (Yesstyle link)

Warning, this product is highly concentrated. Always, always do a patch test before using it. You need to use it AFTER the peeling with sunscreen for at least a week, lots of sunscreen. There’s a risk of skin burns, and burns from acids aren’t pretty… Think carefully before using it. Long live the patch test!