Travel Journal
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Review of Beyoğlu Hamam Banyo & Sauna in Istanbul
If you’re going to Istanbul, it’s hard to resist trying a Turkish bath. I described how it works in this article. You have two options: I like the first option, but since I particularly enjoy Turkish baths, I always look for a local spot so I can go regularly without emptying my bank account. During our stay in Istanbul in July 2023, I found one a 10-minute walk from our accommodation: the “Beyoğlu Hamam Banyo & Sauna” (Google Maps link). This one is reserved for men until 10 PM, after which it becomes mixed. The staff speaks a few words of English, enough to make themselves understood, and seem delighted…
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[2023] 4 days 3 nights in Cappadocia: Practical guide, budget, itinerary, travel diary
After a first trip to Cappadocia in 2018, we loved it so much that we decided to return in 2023. Here’s our travel diary (and ultra-detailed practical guide) updated with new prices. Part 1: Practical tipsPart 2: Travel diary Part 1: Practical tips As I write this, 100 TRY = €3.50. Even though inflation is high in Turkey, once converted to euros, it stays roughly the same or even gets cheaper each day. How to get to Cappadocia? Driving could be an option if you’re on a road trip, but we simply opted to fly from Istanbul. Nevsehir is a 30-minute drive from Goreme, and that’s where we decided to…
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In Search of Used Books in Rouen (France): Travel Diary
After Chartres, I take the train to go to Rouen. If I had known, I would have spent half a day in Illiers-Combray before going to Rouen, but that will be for next time. There’s no direct train between Chartres and Rouen, so I have to change trains at Versailles-Chantier. Part 1: Travel JournalPart 2: Practical Tips Part 1: Travel Journal I’ve been to Rouen many times; you can read my previous posts here, here, here , and and there. We spent 2.5 months in Rouen right after lockdown, and it’s still a fond memory for me. I chose accommodation in the city center on Rue de la République, but…
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Guided Tour of Chartres Cathedral (France): Travel Diary
After a few days in Paris, S. and I have to part ways. She goes home, while I continue my mini road trip. Right on Whit Monday, I find myself in Chartres. Part 1: Travel JournalPart 2: Practical Tips Part 1: Travel Journal I’m glad I didn’t arrive too early because it’s impossible to reach my hotel. A giant mass is taking place around Chartres Cathedral and all roads are blocked, even for pedestrians. I arrive just as the mass ends and slip through the crowd to get to my hotel. Getting lost in the crowd, I realize I’m in the right place at the right time: I’m right in…
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[2023] Local Whirling Dervishes performance at Yenikapı Mevlevi Lodge in Istanbul
The first time we came to Istanbul, we attended a local ceremony of Whirling Dervishes in Istanbul. In 2023, we wanted to go back to the same place, but we found out it was closed. The “touristy” shows still take place every night, but we wanted to attend a real local performance with the Sufi community. After asking around, I found a monthly local show. Only one seat was left, which could be bought online. 50TL (barely €2). I suggest to JB that we go anyway in case someone cancels, but he refuses, because the venue is quite far (50 minutes by tram) and if he gets turned away, he…
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A day on Nusa Penida from Denpasar, Bali (Indonesia)
A bit let down by the “mass tourism” side of Bali, we decide to give it one more chance by heading to the small island next door: Nusa Penida, whose photos had us dreaming. Part 1: Travel JournalPart 2: Practical Tips Part 1: Travel Journal From Bukti near Lovinawe take a taxi to Denpasar. We could have hopped on a boat straight away for Nusa Penida but since we have bulky luggage, we’d rather leave it at the hotel in Denpasar and do the round trip to Nusa Penida in a day, hands-free. Good call—you’ll see later why it’s better to go without luggage. This kind of tour is offered…
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Bukti: a lovely village for digital nomads in Bali (Indonesia)
Accommodation in Bali has become so expensive that it’s better to avoid tourist spots. As we got closer to Lovina (to see the dolphins), we discovered a small village, Bukti, 30 minutes from Lovina and 20 minutes from a shopping town. There are 2 restaurants with local prices (that’s a relief). Here, the dogs are docile; no dog attacks us when we ride our scooter as can happen in Ubud. You can tell the road is mainly used by trucks, not tourists. On the scooter, we’re alone in the world. And at our hotel too. There are rarely other tourists. We opt for a private villa within a family-run hotel,…
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Where to See and Swim with Dolphins in Bali (Indonesia): Lovina Beach
When I learned that you could not only see dolphins but also swim with them, I could barely contain my excitement. We quickly packed our bags and hired a private car to take us to Bukti, near Lovina, in northern Bali. Along the way, we stopped to visit (see our travel diary here). Having a private driver is reassuring because he keeps our bags during our visits, and we can plan as many stops as we want. Part 1: Travel JournalPart 2: Practical Tips Part 1: Travel Journal Since we work, we decide to stay in a small hotel in a small village called Bukti, 30 minutes from Lovina. But…
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3.5 days in Paris with girlfriends (France) – 2023
Passing through Paris in express mode, I suggested my girlfriend S. join me. To my great joy, she accepted the invitation. I picked her up at Orly and we spent 3 and a half wonderful days in Paris, as girlfriends. My girlfriend has been to Paris several times for business, but she’s never had time to see the city (except Montmartre). You could say it’s her first time visiting Paris. Part 1: Travel JournalPart 2: Practical Tips Part 1: Travel Journal Day 1: Accommodation in Paris has been sky-high since tourism picked up post-Covid. I opted for an Airbnb in zone 4, which means an hour of commuting every day…
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Visit to the Plantin Moretus Printing Museum in Antwerp (Belgium)
During my solo road trip Belgium – Germany in 2020, I was fascinated by two printing museums and decided to visit them again in 2023 with JB. These are my two favorite museums in the world! Today, I’m going to talk about the Plantin Moretus Museum in Antwerp (Belgium). This article is for those who will never go there, a more concise description without spoilers is available here for those who will visit it someday. Part 1: Travel JournalPart 2: Practical Tips Part 1: Travel Journal Practical info The Plantin Moretus Museum is in the city center, and overlooks a green and very pleasant square. It used to be a…
