[2023] 4 days 3 nights in Cappadocia: Practical guide, budget, itinerary, travel diary
After a first trip to Cappadocia in 2018, we loved it so much that we decided to return in 2023. Here’s our travel diary (and ultra-detailed practical guide) updated with new prices.
Part 1: Practical tips
Part 2: Travel diary
Part 1: Practical tips
As I write this, 100 TRY = €3.50. Even though inflation is high in Turkey, once converted to euros, it stays roughly the same or even gets cheaper each day.
How to get to Cappadocia?
Driving could be an option if you’re on a road trip, but we simply opted to fly from Istanbul.
Nevsehir is a 30-minute drive from Goreme, and that’s where we decided to land, even though there’s another airport (Kayseri). See what fits your budget and schedule.
- For us, the flight Istanbul – Nevsehir cost €160 round trip with an extra 25kg baggage allowance.
- We had access to the airport lounge thanks to our American Express Platinum card. It felt great because it was lunchtime and we were hungry!
- Istanbul city center – Istanbul airport: 360 TRY (€13) via Uber. Note: There are several airports in Istanbul, don’t get them mixed up!
- Shuttle from Nevsehir airport to your hotel in Cappadocia: 90 TRY per person (€3.10)
Shuttle at Nevsehir Airport
Right after exiting the airport, look for the sign İpek Tur (website), you’ll see a van waiting. In low season, you can hop on without a reservation, but I strongly recommend booking at least the day before. It’s easy: send a WhatsApp message to +905317351078 stating your arrival time, your hotel name, and how many you are. This is the cheapest shuttle I found. In 2023, this service costs only 90 TRY (€3.10 per person). Other shuttles will easily charge you between $15 and $20. And the cherry on top: they drop you right at your hotel, anywhere in Cappadocia. Four times cheaper than a taxi. Hope you appreciate this tip because it took me a while to search and compare.
Istanbul – Nevsehir flight
I recommend choosing a seat near the window, on the right side. At some point, you’ll spot a huge salt lake. Sometimes it’s pink, due to a pink algae in the water. This lake is a bit far from Cappadocia, so if you can’t be bothered to go there like us, seeing it from the plane is already a great experience.
Hotel in Cappadocia
I recommend switching hotels frequently rather than staying in one place. There’s so much to see and different vibes, so if you have a car for your whole stay, don’t hesitate to spend a night in each town. The towns are only 10-15 minutes apart by car.
Note that any hotel with “Cave” in its name offers cave rooms. Any hotel with “Stone” in its name offers stone rooms. “Cave” hotels might be harder to access by car, so aim for those with parking if you have a car.
- For the first night, I would have chosen Goreme. The cave hotels in Goreme are particularly pretty, so if you’re going to splurge, do it here. Goreme is where the hot air balloons take off, so if you’re not driving, you can just walk to the launch site.
- I recommend Asteria Cave Hotel (€80/night, Booking link) with cave rooms, terrace, and easy access to a popular viewpoint.
- For an ultra-luxurious experience (like a honeymoon), there’s Kebelek Hotel with an in-house hammam (Booking link)
- our hotel is great if you’re staying for a while, even though it’s not a cave hotel, there are rooms with a private terrace and lazy people like me can watch the hot air balloons from bed (while half asleep :D) Maron Stone Hotel in Goreme (Booking link, 60€ breakfast included)
- Then, one night in Uchisar seems essential to me. Opt for any hotel near Uchisar Castle, you’ll have a dream view. From Uchisar, you’ll see the hot air balloons very well even if they’re a bit far.
- I recommend Peristyle Cave Cappadocia (Booking link), with an incredible terrace, and easy access
- One night in Ortahisar is highly recommended, it’s the “real” Turkey, with real local prices, and an extraordinary and calm atmosphere in the evening, which other towns don’t have. The small streets are charming too. You’ll hardly see the hot air balloons from here, but if you’re motorized, it’s not a problem, you can go see them at Love Valley in a 10-minute drive
- I recommend Carna Cave Hotel (Booking link) which offers affordable prices for cave rooms but a breathtaking view of the region and the 5-star hotel across 😀
Anyway, avoid hotels with too many photos on Instagram. Breakfast on the Persian carpet, with hot air balloons in the background, is fake. No one prepares edible breakfasts outside at 5am (especially since it’s often cold so early!), it’s just for the photos! Moreover, these hotels are invaded by non-guests who come to take all the space from real customers. We paid a fortune for a hotel like this and were pushed mercilessly by broke Instagrammers who wanted to show off by pretending they had slept at the hotel (report here).
Rental car
When we arrived at our hotel, we asked the manager if he had any advice on renting a car. He called an agency that offered us an automatic car for 60 € / day, which seemed quite expensive.
We finally found an agency 20 meters from our hotel (you can contact them via WhatsApp: +905322322604). Rate: 40 € / day for a manual car. 50 € / day for an automatic. The car can be delivered to your hotel.
Card payment accepted and directly in euros: no exchange rate issues.
The rental guy was really laid-back: no security deposit, and he didn’t check the fuel level or the vehicle’s condition upon return.
Clean car in good condition, acceptable rates, no nasty surprises: we recommend.
Hot air balloons
About a hundred hot air balloons can be seen in the sky at sunrise EVERY DAY if the weather permits.
You can enjoy them in four ways:
- from your hotel terrace. All hotels have one. You’ll get the most out of it if you’re in Goreme or high up in Uchisar
- from the hot air balloon takeoff site. Go at dawn, that way you’ll see the balloons inflate, it’s awesome!
- from Love Valley. It’s the balloon landing site. You can go there at sunrise
- from a hot air balloon: count on 100€ minimum (24 people max), 250€ for the less crowded balloons (16 people max), you can compare and book online with our partner Getyourguide or Civitatis. This includes transportation of course and often breakfast before the flight and a glass of champagne after.
Money
There are many ATMs here (to know which ones are free, check out this article by JB). But I still advise you to come with some cash (200-300TL/person) to pay for the shuttle, small entrance fees, parking, ice creams… here and there. Given that inflation is huge and the value of bills doesn’t keep up, credit cards are more and more widely accepted, without extra fees.
Safety
There are a few places where you don’t get good reception, so I suggest downloading the Cappadocia map offline on your phone before you go, and always having a bottle of water on you, a hat, sunscreen. And a SIM card so you can contact your hotel or loved ones in an emergency.
Itinerary
For those renting a car: You can take inspiration from our travel diary below. For those staying less time, or longer, there’s a more detailed guide with a ready-to-use Google Map. I’ve updated all the prices, and I hope you like it because it’s really hard, in 2019 when I took my first trip, to find a complete itinerary for those who don’t want to go through an agency.
Organized Tours
For those who want to go through an agency on the ground: the RED TOUR is the essential tour (GetYourGuide link). Don’t miss it.
Next, there’s the BLUE TOUR (GetYourGuide link), which is also great. Budget between €45 and €65 per tour per person. The price depends on the quality of service, the restaurant, and the number of tourists per car.
Part 2: Travel diary
Day 1: Arrival in Goreme
After returning our keys to our Airbnb host in Istanbul, we hop in an Uber and double-check for the umpteenth time that the airport we’d entered was the right one. In Istanbul, there are so many airports that you can’t afford to mix them up. Our flight is 10 minutes late, which lets us fully enjoy the high-quality lunch at the airport lounge (accessible for both of us thanks to JB’s American Express Platinum card).
We strategically pick an aisle seat and a window seat (right side). As expected, no one thinks to sit between us, so we have an empty seat in between and enjoy the nice view and the space. The flight is very short, and despite the delay, the pilot manages to make up the time without a problem. From the plane, we spot a salt lake, part of which is pink due to a pink algae. I’m really glad I saw it from the plane because I have no desire to make the long round trip like last time.
There’s a bit of turbulence on arrival, which earned the pilot applause of relief upon landing. It’s 35 degrees. Everyone piles into the tiny arrivals hall to collect their luggage. We leave the airport, sweating, looking for our shuttle.
The day before, JB worries that we haven’t yet thought about finding a way to get to Goreme from the airport. It’s indeed hard to find reliable info online, as prices vary wildly from one day to the next. I come across a shuttle whose website is super ugly ( İpek Tur (website). I contact them on WhatsApp at +905317351078, and they give me the lowest rate I’ve seen: 90 TL, with drop-off in front of our hotel. This rate is so low that other tourists who show up on the fly had to ask three times if they’d really be dropped off in front of their hotel 😀 And JB and I had to explain (the driver doesn’t speak English) that it’s not too good to be true. We basically played the role of touts 😀
30 minutes later, we’re dropped off in front of our hotel Maron Stone Hotel in Goreme (Booking link, €60 breakfast included). JB chose this hotel because we’ll have a private terrace. We were so traumatized by shameless Instagrammers invading our overpriced hotel last time that this time, a normal hotel would do, especially with a private terrace. We no longer seek a cave room because we now know what it’s like, and every euro saved can be spent on a hot air balloon or a restaurant. We’re super happy with our hotel; it’s ultra quiet but not far from the center, and we can sit and work on the common terrace, or watch the hot air balloons take off from our private terrace. The room is bigger than we thought. The breakfast is excellent. The value for money is great! The owner has a puppy, an adorable cocker spaniel.
However, if you’re coming here for the first time, having a cave room is still cool. In that case, aim for a hotel with “Cave” in the name.
This room doesn’t have a private terrace but has a jacuzzi. Your choice!
Since we arrive at 5 PM, we’re tired and only have the energy to browse the shops, have dinner, and walk to the Sunset view ( (https://goo.gl/maps/jeJrvpJHxTfV98tb9). We’re in July, so the days are very, very long. Sunset happens after dinner (at a Korean restaurant, for a change, we were fed up with Turkish kebab), so it helps digest, which is good. Note: the ticket to access the Sunset view costs 10 TL per person. Always have some cash on you, 200 or 300 TL, that’s good for parking, access… and ice creams here and there.
Day 2:
The weather forecast says sunrise at 5:30 AM. We set the alarm for 5:30 to watch the hot air balloons from our terrace. But at 5:30 there are already plenty in the sky, so we should have gotten up at dawn. It’s so convenient having a private terrace because I just have to open the door wide and watch the scenery ( from my bed ):D ahahaha. Waking up early is tough anyway, especially since it takes me a long time to fall back asleep.
Göreme Open Air Museum
At 9:30 AM, JB goes to pick up the car, a simple white Fiat (€40/day, limited to 250 km/day).
The rental guy was easygoing: no security deposit, and he didn’t even check the vehicle’s condition upon return. He can deliver the car to your hotel (but we were literally 20 meters from the agency…). You can contact him via WhatsApp: +905322322604.
We start with the Göreme Open Air Museum because I realize that I had completely missed the most beautiful church when I went there last time. All the tourist sites have been improved to offer larger and more accessible parking lots. I am pleasantly surprised. However, the parking lots are now mandatory paid.
Upon arrival at theGöreme Open Air Museum, you will see lots of tourists taking advantage of the free parts near the parking lot.
It’s certainly very pretty, but the prettiest is this church Tokali Kilise, with free access, decorated with stones of lapis lazuli. Photos are not allowed inside but I was able to take a photo from the entrance (without flash, which doesn’t bother anyone).
I’m showing you the official photo here:
You have to climb the hill to reach the main entrance.
Access costs 300TL (a bit over 10€) or is included in the Museum Pass. Parking costs 15TL
We take the Museum Pass which gives unlimited access to almost all tourist sites in the region for 3 days. This pass costs 1000TL and you can pay by card either 32€/person.
The places of interest cannot be photographed, so I’m putting official photos. You must visit the Dark Church (100TL extra, but included in the Museum Pass). I think you shouldn’t miss it, especially since the tours don’t go there, so you’ll only be with a few tourists, it’s very pretty. I really liked the Sandals Church right next door, accessible via a metal staircase. Below, there’s a very cute cave café.
Dark Church
Sandals Church
Özkonak Underground City
Access costs 60TL or is included in the Museum Pass. Parking costs 10TL
There are several underground cities in the region. We already visited Derinkuyu last time, larger, in the South. This time we want to visit a small underground city, where there are fewer tourists. People don’t live in underground cities for fun, but to protect themselves from enemy attacks.
That’s why there’s always a huge wheel to block access to each door. Here, tall people like JB suffer a lot. Even shorties like me have to bend down to squeeze through the underground passages, but everything is clean and well-lit, so you shouldn’t be afraid.
The first level is reserved for food storage. Just before the exit, you’ll see an arrow to the lower level, the passage is narrow and long and it’s how you access different rooms. The route is very quick, I’d say 20 minutes in total. Given the small size of the rooms, I think visiting without a guide is sufficient; it’s not very pleasant to stay for long minutes packed together listening to explanations.
Balkh church (optional stop)
Fee requested: 50TL/person
I spot a church and a monastery nearby. It’s the first church in the region. It’s renovated and maintained by a man who immediately asks us for a contribution of 50TL each for ruins that aren’t that interesting. But this man is very “spiritual” oriented and tells us about a pitch-black corridor that leads to a room rich in minerals (also all black), where you can recharge your energy in 5 minutes. And he can also help us remove negative waves. He does seem sensitive to waves, there’s something special (in a good way) about him. Although I don’t feel any particular positive energy in the place, it’s cool and neutral, clean, restful… perfect for a scorching day.
The man tells us about a carpet museum in Avanos, but… carpets and me, there’s no love story. I like crafts but I’ve already seen how carpets are made at the World Expo in Dubai. I have no intention of giving anyone false hopes because I certainly won’t buy a carpet.
Paşabağ Gözleme Evi
Access costs 120TL, or included in the Museum Pass. Free parking
We hit the road again for Paşabağ Gözleme Evi, my favorite place in Cappadocia. Here, we have giant shapes that I call “mushrooms” all over the site. I’m completely lost when I arrive, because they’ve blocked the old road, very close to the site, and replaced it with a huge parking lot and a tourist welcome complex. It’s better this way because the site is well preserved from the rubble and dust of the road. It’s absolutely calm, and there are many places to sit and chill.
If there’s one place to visit, it’s here! Even the gendarmerie is too too beautiful
the gendarmerie
There are several places where you can climb. Be careful, it’s still quite dangerous, so you need to be well-equipped (not wearing flip-flops, for example) and be careful. It’s not difficult, but good physical condition will prevent accidents. Also, a little thought before rushing in (the ascent is usually much simpler than the descent!).
We have lunch on site, at Paşabağ Gözleme Evi. The Turkish crêpe with Nutella is delicious and the view is incredible. I highly recommend it. Expect 70TL to 90TL per crêpe (€2.5 to €3.5).
Devrent Valley
Free parking. Free access
A place once devoid of businesses now has a parking lot and a café. We didn’t stop because the main attraction is that camel shape.
Feel free to continue driving along the road, there are funny shapes all along the way and absolutely no one around.
Twin Fairy Chimneys
Free access. Free parking
Likewise, the roads have been repaved and Google Maps may tell you to turn left, but in reality, it’s not possible. Be careful! You need to park 20 meters from the site. Before, this site was right on the road and everyone could approach the bird-shaped rocks. But there are too many tourists, so they’ve protected the area and made it inaccessible. You now have to walk on the wooden platform.
Dinner at House of Memories
We didn’t think to make a reservation, but it’s better to do so. We arrive very early at this restaurant in Uchisar, knowing that in high season, an hour’s wait is quite possible. Surprise: today it’s particularly quiet. The owner tells us we’re lucky, as he’s only planned two pottery kebabs for people without reservations like us. Remember to book at least 4 hours in advance (the time it takes to prepare the dish) via Whatsapp: +905357616720. Expect 750TL for two (€26) + drinks. The owner even speaks a little French.
Sunset
You can watch the sunset just about anywhere in the region, but there’s one place I recommend, and that’s Göreme Lavanta panorama cafe (when the lavender is there, of course). You’ll have a view over all of Goreme, the sunset, and the lavender.
Day 3:
This is the most grueling day of the whole trip. Sunrise is at 5:30am, but we wake up at 4am. It’s probably too early; I think 4:30am would have been enough. We park in the dark and guess who’s busy inflating the hot air balloons. A shape finally emerges, we see balloons inflated to a third, then a fleet of vans bringing tourists arrives on the scene. Around 5am, the first balloons start to take off. I filmed everything in timelapse, and we approached the balloons without any problem; people are used to it.
No Instagrammers today, sitting on a Persian rug with a glass of champagne in hand. Since Covid, and then the unfortunate events hitting Turkey, we see fewer foreign tourists, few Chinese tourists, but many Turkish tourists. And they’re less flashy and less into Instagram.
So there are two roads where you can get close to the balloons: this one where you’re right next to them restaurant (Google Maps link)
And this one where you have a panoramic view (Google Maps link)
It’s accessible on foot from the center of Goreme, a 20-minute walk in the dark, so be sure to walk with a strong light, otherwise you risk getting run over by vans.
We just settled for coming by car. I put my camera on timelapse inside the car. And I took my Insta360 go 2 to free up my hands and film everything while watching with my own eyes. Everything is photogenic, so bring out your best cameras, your most beautiful dresses. I’m sharing JB’s photos so you can get a sense of the scale.
All the balloons end up in Love Valley, so after watching them take off, we head there like many others. There are more people here than at the takeoff site. Access costs 20TL per car (those who left without their wallets had to park far away). It’s very beautiful. The balloons deliberately descend very low into the valley, so sometimes you see them barely peeking over the cliff, a sight not to be missed.
Suddenly, we hear a pilot shout. He descends very quickly and very close to us. Then the basket just touches down on the cliff, giving the occupants a slight jolt. Everyone is thrilled with the experience and hastens to take perspective photos, us too, I admit 😀
I see people waving at us and notice that this balloon is oddly sparsely populated. It must be a very wealthy family, because privatizing a balloon costs around €4000!! Already, the price per passenger (for the one-hour ride) ranges from €100 to €250, and a basket can hold between 16 and 28 passengers. During our stay, there will be days when it rains, when there are no flights, and the days following ‘bad days’ will cost even more because the number of balloons is limited and everyone is fighting for a spot. There’s even a black market where people who have a spot sell it to other desperate tourists. So when you come here, take the balloon as soon as possible; you’re never safe from a meteorological whim.
These same places, without balloons, are much less magical. Here are the two locations in question, on a day without balloons.
Love Valley, named for its phallic rock formations.
Getting up this early is very tiring. We need to go back to sleep to have energy for the rest of the day.
Ihlara Valley
Access costs 60TL or is included in the Museum Pass. Free parking. Toilets 5TL
Around 10:30 a.m., I finally have enough energy to get in the car and head to the Ihlara Valley. Those who come with an agency can arrive on one side, walk, and then be picked up on the other side. Not us, so we’ll only do half the trail and turn back. The goal is to reach a restaurant/café midway. I spotted it on Google Maps. While all the restaurants in the area are on the water, this one is the only one with tables in the water, in the shade. And it’s very pleasant when it’s hot like this.
There are two routes to get there, and I recommend coming from the Belisırma Valley Access (Google Maps link) because the road on this side is wider (two-way) while the other is narrow and single-lane. You can skip the walk and just settle in at the restaurant, right on the water.
It takes about 20 minutes to walk to the restaurant/café by the water that I mentioned (Diker Aile Çay Bahçesi). They have very little to eat. Today, for instance, we have to make do with paninis. But that’s not too bad given the location, and there are ducks circling us, which is adorable. Expect to pay 300TL for two, cash only, of course. There are restrooms on site, 5TL if you’re not a customer.
The highlight of the place is the churches up high, but no one visits them because the trek is already long and there are so many churches in the area that these don’t stand out as particularly extraordinary. But if you have time, go for it!
The valley looks like a crack in the earth, and you can see that by gaining some elevation. Come here (https://goo.gl/maps/7bVHD98WWPtW5JUh9) for the viewpoint, there’s a café on site and a lady ready to show off her cooking skills and Turkish crêpes (the official viewpoint, 10 meters away, is under renovation right now).
Selime Cathedral
Entrance costs 200TL or is included in the Museum Pass. Parking costs 20TL.
The place is majestic, and local kids play in the non-paying sections. I highly recommend the paid part. The climb is a bit grueling because it’s steep and I’m wearing a dress (what was I thinking!), but it’s beautiful and spacious. There are many rooms (dining room, bedroom, monastery, church, cathedral…). I really, really enjoyed the visit. Despite the heat, the wind is constant, which is a nuisance (for dust) but pleasant to forget the effort and the scorching sun. I took out my Insta 360 go2 again to film hands-free (since I need them to climb). I suggest you do the same and be careful when taking photos because one misstep and you’re falling.
Farm strawberries
On the way back, we spot a strawberry farm. Even the dolmus (intercity vans) stop here. Prices are truly local: 20TL per kilo (less than a euro)!! We don’t hesitate to buy 1 kilo of cherries and 1 kilo of strawberries. They’re small but delicious. It’s surprising that such good things grow from these arid lands.
Dinner
For dinner, we have two choices:
- Centre Restaurant: their garlic-sautéed chops are irresistible.
- Jardinn: this new restaurant looks like a cozy little castle, but it’s outside.
Since it’s raining, we’ll go for Centre Restaurant in Uchisar. Count on 500TL per person (€17). There are plenty of parking spots nearby.
Here’s a photo of the restaurant Jardinn. It’s next to a main road, so you’d better not walk there.
On the way, feel free to stop at Pigeon Valley.
Day 4:
Today’s itinerary will be light and can be done in half a day since we’re a bit tired. This could be a good plan for a day when you’re in a hot air balloon and have no energy for sightseeing. Or for your last day in Cappadocia, before catching your flight.
Çavuşin
While St. John’s Church isn’t extraordinary, the view from above is very satisfying. We went in 2019 and found the place poorly organized. Now it’s much cleaner, though signage is still lacking. Don’t hesitate to ask locals where the stairs to the church are because it’s not easy to find. Anyway, follow the “Fairyland” sign and you’ll be on the right path.
Uchisar
Uchisar overlooks the area and sits high above other towns. Its castle offers panoramic views. I think staying in Uchisar (without necessarily paying for the castle) already gives you a great view. Castle entry costs 120TL and isn’t covered by the Museum Pass.
Just next to the castle (right side) is a ceramic shop full of surprises. The shop stands out for its clearly marked prices, which makes shopping so much easier. Then we’re led to see a lower level, then another… I’m amazed by the size of this place.
A man follows us and explains his craft. His name is Sinan, and he learned the trade from his grandfather. He’s very proud of a wine pourer, certainly very difficult to make by hand. He then explains the difficulty of getting gold ceramics: they need to be fired 3 times, because different colors require different temperatures, and gold goes last.
Afterwards, he takes us to a room full of ordinary-looking items, but once the lights are off, everything glows. It’s magical! Here’s his Instagram. He posts rarely, but you can contact him if you want something custom. Despite its treasures, this shop is quite discreet and doesn’t even show up on Google Maps, so I wanted to give them a little boost.
Ortahisar
Another charming spot is Ortahisar Castle. I love its alleys and artisan shops. We were able to fully enjoy the restaurant Ortahisar kalesi restorant ve sarhoşun yeri for dinner. The view is breathtaking. Their signature dish only costs €4.5 and is cooked to order, and it’s delicious. Downstairs, there’s a very cozy wine cellar.
I highly recommend this city. The vibe is cool, and you can sit on the street like a local and enjoy Turkish pastries for just 20 TL (less than a euro). Here, you get a taste of real Turkish life, even though there are, of course, a few tourists around.
There’s a 5-star cave hotel with an amazing pool (Booking link). It’s much more affordable than other 5-star hotels in the area. The catch is that the rooms are scattered around, and anyone (including us) can walk in and out of the hotel freely. A hotel for Instagrammers and those who like to show off. However, I recommend Carna Cave Hotel (Booking link) which offers affordable cave rooms but with a stunning view of the region and the famous 5-star hotel.
It’s time to head back; contact your favorite shuttle to get to the airport, heading to Istanbul or elsewhere. Or, hop on a bus to explore other regions of Turkey.
Well, I hope you enjoyed this guide/travel diary. Feel free to check out our other articles on Turkey by clicking here as well as our guides on Cappadocia here , and and there (prices updated in 2023)
Planning a trip to Turkey? Our partner Get Your Guide offers entry tickets and guided tours with French-speaking guides at very reasonable rates. Click here to see what they offer and book online.
