First Days in Croatia, Split: PCR Test & Closed Restaurants
It is mid-December and as every year since we have been nomads, our customers “impose” us a vacation at Christmas. Every year, we have 2 weeks of vacations, and every year, we organize a road trip (see our last Christmas in Cambodia, Morocco, and Mexico).
This year, because of Covid, it took a long time to decide. And the choice of Croatia and Montenegro imposed itself as an obviousness because it was not too bad and both countries did not ask for a PCR test at the arrival.
We booked our tickets 3 weeks before leaving on November 25th. Tired, we learn on December 1st that Croatia has just imposed a mandatory PCR test for any entry (even for Croatians).
Part 1: Travel Diary
Part 2: Practical Tips
Part 1: Travel Diary
PCR test & entry in Croatia (December 2020)
Going to a country that asks for negative results is taking the risk of not leaving at all 🙂 if the results turn out to be positive.
It’s a big source of stress for us, especially after so much expense. Because of Covid, low-cost flights are almost non-existent, direct lines are rare, every trip becomes a luxury. Fortunately, in the case of Croatia, we just have to take care of one thing: not to catch the Covid.
Having the results late, or not having a test, still gives us the opportunity to take the test on the spot, as long as we remain confined somewhere until the test results are received. It is indicated on Twitter that PCR tests in Croatia are expensive (around 100€) but the results arrive a few hours later. So if the results are negative, the “quarantine” will be of short duration.
Being uncertain isn’t something we like very much, hence our huge efforts to get the PCR test in Rome before coming to Croatia.
I told you how we fought to have a test in Rome in the 48 hours before our arrival here. In total, we spent 288€ on transportation (to the other end of Rome) & tests for two people.
And I think I’ve done well because the Croats take it very seriously. The plane is half full, but JB and I still have to sit with an empty seat between us.
On arrival at the airport of Split, we were asked for the results of the test (which we took care to print) and we had to fill in several forms: one online, one on the plane.
Our tests were marked “not detected” in English, but the airport employee made sure with a colleague that “not detected” meant “negative”.
Those who do not have test results are looked at sideways but still pass. They have to provide the mailing address where they are going to do the quarantine (I guess for foreigners, they will really ask for Booking confirmation or something like that) and are given a list of labs where they can take the test ASAP (FYI, you can take your PCR test in Split here).
For each case like that, it takes forever, while for those with negative tests, it only takes 5 seconds.
Those who took the test before arrival but did not receive the results in time must confine themselves before obtaining the results. If the results are negative, they will have to send these results (by email apparently) before they can travel freely.
Note: apparently, on the Slovenian-Croatian border side, things aren’t going so well. Customs officers shout at European tourists saying that entry as tourists by land isn’t allowed … before letting them pass. No text mentions the impossibility of crossing the land border as tourists. Be careful because this border apparently is never very cool.
Split airport is… deserted. But it is normal in low season.
Low season + Covid = we can no longer believe the information on the Internet
Where is the famous Airport shuttle? Are there still cabs at this time? Note: yes. For the shuttle, check the schedules here
In any case, JB took the initiative to book us a private transfer for 30€ (online payment). The driver speaks English and reminds us to withdraw money at an ATM (Croatia is a member of the European Union but not of the eurozone, their currency is the Croatian Kuna). All ATMs take quite significant fees (between 3€ and 5€ per withdrawal). You have to test them all to find the cheapest one
Our accommodation in Split
Everybody is professional here, they are used to tourism. Between the driver of the private transfer who speaks English and communicates very well, the lady who takes care of the accommodation is very friendly and on time too. Before coming, she informs us that our accommodation has been occupied by guests with Covid. She tells us that the accommodation will be disinfected but if we prefer, she offers us another accommodation 50 meters away, virus-free (Emperor’s Suites, Booking link). Of course, we will accept this new accommodation. The new accommodation is more expensive but the difference isn’t charged to us obviously.
Surprise: this one has an integrated sauna! Yes! in the apartment, private 😀 JB tested it immediately.
The decoration is a little busy but the lady says that it looks like a famous palace in Split, that’s why this accommodation is n°3 on Tripadvisor. OK. Cool. We paid 30€/night, the price of the other accommodation while this one is actually worth 80€, link Booking
The Internet connection is ultra-fast, we have fiber optics. I understand why Split is a paradise for digital nomads.
The city center is full of guest rooms. Already in our little alley, all the neighboring houses are bed and breakfast. Here they aren’t only on Airbnb but advertise directly on Booking, like a hotel.
Express visit
As our objective is to make the road trip in Montenegro, we don’t linger much in Croatia. The following day, we must already take the bus for Dubrovnik and 3 days later, take a car for Tivat in Montenegro. We will have the opportunity to come back and spend much more time in Croatia in the future.
The next morning, we have just enough time to go to the bus terminal to buy our tickets. For info, the timetables on this website: www.ak-split.hr/en/ are correct. Yes, schedules aren’t convenient for Dubrovnik. Don’t believe the blogs that mention ferries or buses with super convenient schedules. There are a lot fewer options in the low season.
Seeing the impressive number of travel agencies and services closed during the low season, one can only imagine how busy it must be in summer. Such a prospect does not delight us, and if we come back here, it will be during the shoulder seasons, for sure.
Moreover, locals seem surprised by our presence and ask us what we are doing here :D. We are tourists and we are spotted directly. Already because we wear a mask, and because I am clearly not Croatian 😀
It is while walking along the port that one realizes that people do not care about the obligation to wear masks. Only one person in three wears it. Well, outside, it’s not too bad. Indoors, they seem to respect more.
Restaurants and cafes are closed but we are told that many are open and do take-out. All we have to do is place an order on the Wolt application, or look for the small tables where you ring the bell to place an order. It costs 50 kunas per dish. 5 kuna for a bottle of water at the supermarket, giving that 1€ = 7.5 kuna
While waiting for the dish, I was able to look at the local jewelry, the traditional style isn’t great but in terms of technicality, it’s interesting.
We paid for 2 nights (one of which was too much) thinking that we couldn’t have our luggage kept between noon and 6:45 pm (when we take the bus) but there are lockers at the train station (right next to the bus terminal). The lockers are open between 6 am and 10 pm. It costs 15 kunas (payment in cash only). The lockers are quite big, you can fit the equivalent of 1.5 suitcases or a large backpack.
Our next article in Dubrovnik is here
Part 2: Practical Tips
Budget
- Rome – Split with Croatia Airlines: 1777 kunas/person or 235€/person (1 checked baggage included)
- Private transfer Split Airport => city center: 30€ for two: www.a-transfers-croatia.com Professional driver, precautions are taken for Covid
- Accommodation in Split
- 30€/night for two
- Emperor’s Suites, Booking link, n°3 on Tripadvisor, private sauna
- Take away dishes: count 50 kunas/ dish
- At the supermarket: 5 kunas for a bottle of water. People seem to appreciate the brand JANA
- Withdrawal at ATM: we had to pay 25 kunas per withdrawal at HPB (with an international card but these are the fees applied by the Croatian bank). Not sure it is the cheapest because we only tested 3 ATMs. There are money exchanges everywhere. The euro isn’t accepted, but payment by card (or even contactless) is OK almost everywhere.
Did you like this article? See all our articles in Croatia here
