2 weeks of vacation in Vietnam (2025): Ha Noi, Da Nang, Hoi An
JB, back to being a salaried employee is “forced” to take two weeks of vacation before August, and here we are “obliged” to go somewhere. We decide to spend two weeks in Vietnam, with the dates simply determined by the flight prices. Even though it’s not the best time for Vietnam since it’s the start of summer aka scorching heat. Since the goal is to rest, we have a very simple plan which involves returning to places we’ve already visited, where we’ve been several times, so there’s no pressure to sightsee and we can just enjoy these cities like locals.
All the addresses & info of the artisans are provided here, and there , and and there
Naturally, the first city is Hanoi, my hometown. We deliberately have two half-empty suitcases to bring gifts from France for everyone, and to bring back gifts from Vietnam. We discover we have +10% purchasing power because the euro is very strong at the moment and prices in VND remain the same vs. 2024.
Air France puts us in the worst seats on the plane; we decide to negotiate at check-in for two seats near the emergency exit. They tell us that normally these seats are paid but give them to us for free because JB looks sturdy and I speak Vietnamese – able to act as an interpreter in case of problems. JB is super happy because he has plenty of room for his long legs. Departing from Lille adds a lot of travel time: 24 hours door to door.
In Hanoi, we return to the hotel we usually stay at, rent a motorbike from our usual scooter rental place. I have a small list of restaurants I want to try / return to. You can find videos of JB teaching you how to eat this or that dish on Instagram.
In this direction, the time difference is very hard and we try our best to adapt, but despite our efforts, for a week we go to bed very late and always wake up very late.
It’s the season of summer fruits, lotus flowers… a very pleasant season for eating but not for going out on the street (40, 43 degrees)…
We go straight to the artisans in the first few days because we know some operations will take time: to the watch repairer, to the bootmaker, then to the leather workers. In Vietnam, when a task takes more than 24 hours, people apologize. Whereas in France, for my watch that took on water, we saw 3 people, none of them want to repair it; they send me to Paris because such and such a part is missing. Here, the customer doesn’t have to worry about the details, the artisan takes care of everything.
I’m supposed to spend two days at my leatherworking teacher’s to learn how to carve a bag handle; but he’s in the middle of moving and only has a morning to show me how he does it, in a café. Which finally leaves me 1.5 free days to do things I hadn’t planned. I give my teacher back the bag he made for me for repair because the handle I chose for this bag doesn’t suit its design or its weight. JB takes the opportunity to order a novonappa leather strap for his Tissot watch (bought at the beginning of the year to celebrate his career change). The official Tissot strap is really ugly so JB prefers to have it custom-made. There’s a slight difficulty related to the shape of the watch, and we want a spring bar that’s easy to remove, so JB can switch between the metal bracelet and leather strap in seconds, but that’s not our problem, we just have to give the brief to my teacher, the color of the stitching thread (and the leather because JB wants a specific leather) and he handles everything.
At the bootmaker’s
At the bootmaker’s, it’s a bit more complex. Most bootmakers only work on men’s shoes. So to get our shoes in 2 weeks, we have to see two bootmakers. For JB, I choose a fairly large store with several bootmakers working in a workshop (not visible). The advantage is that there are all types of shoes, styles, soles… so JB can get inspired. The saleswoman doesn’t help us at all because she keeps saying they can do anything and they just need a brief. Fortunately, I took the time to read several books on custom shoes and it’s finally me who briefs JB and designs his shoes.
At my bootmaker’s (whom I see for the first time), it’s a different vibe. He has no ready-made shoes in his workshop – which is just a small room attached to his apartment. He has a real job (in shoe manufacturing) but takes custom orders in his free time (evenings & weekends). He’s more interested in making shoes for JB (it must seem classier to have a European client) and he half-listens to my brief. I already have a very specific model in mind so the order is easier for me, we just have to choose materials and colors, the design being already finalized. It’s when measuring my feet that we realize my feet have half a size difference, which explains why there’s always one foot that hurts when I buy in store.
The two pairs of shoes will be ready on the very last day, leaving no room for repair or adjustment. What I can say is that having custom-made shoes, even if poorly made, is 100 times better than buying in store. The comfort is immediate even though it’s the first time we wear them, and in leather at that!
Then, the finishes are not great, JB’s shoes, for example, instead of being stitched as specified, were simply glued because the shoemaker forgot our order and did them in a rush. My shoes turn out to be a bit too big because the shoemaker was distracted by JB. In the end, he even asked me for a photo of the shoes being worn, with JB next to them; while he didn’t do anything for JB. Having a European in his workshop must be a great source of pride for him, even though I’m the customer, hahaha. But no big deal, the shoes cost €100/pair, you can’t expect perfection at that price.
Anyway, this first experience helped us better understand what we want: (1) a super-equipped workshop because the finishes depend on the tools used; (2) if we go for a shoe store, we’ll need one that offers multiple widths for the foot.
Being a UFO
Being accompanied by JB raises some issues for me because right away we’re put in the “suckers” or “VIP customers” category… Also, the fact that I live in France means some people treat me differently, and I can’t tell if our relationships are sincere or just because I represent a dream they wish they could achieve.
And even without JB, people can immediately tell I’m different. For starters, I pay in cash, while all Vietnamese people now pay by bank transfer (QR code); I dress differently; I’m available during the day, etc. They’re very curious, they notice the difference right away and ask all sorts of questions. Like, “So weird, you go for a massage alone in the middle of the day,” or “You seem to go to the spa often, but this is the first time I’ve seen you here; what happened to your other spa?” Or at a nail spa, there’s an awkward moment when the beautician tells me she doesn’t have acetone to remove my “regular” nail polish. I ask her why, and she tells me that in Vietnam, no one wears regular polish anymore; everyone gets gel or permanent polish (I can’t remember which). Even when it comes to fingernails, I’m no longer like the others.
I notice that, regardless of the country, people continue to define others by their profession and how useful that profession can be to them. For example, I’ve lost interest in digital marketing for years, but since it was my job for a long time, people (who are perfectly aware of my new passions) still feel free to ask for free help on the subject (disguised as requests for advice), even though I couldn’t care less. It’s rare that people ask me about my true passions. I would have liked more questions about books, cutting machines, or leather bags.
No one understands the choice of JB’s career change and our decision to become sedentary again. We no longer bother explaining the real reason; I just mention the financial crisis and the arrival of AI, which is easier for people to understand 😀 We’ve always followed an unconventional path, and I think you have to be in the same situation to understand our logic. Long-term planning is a luxury.
Then, of course, there are exchanges with more educated, passionate people who see beyond my expat/marketer status. For example, my woodworker, whom I took the time to visit in his own workshop in Da Nang. I’ve been buying from him for years, but this is the first time we’ve met in person. I’m not too into wood, but I know enough to discuss technical details, especially because I love covering wooden boxes with leather, like the watch box for JB. He gave me some tips to make my box close better next time: adding two small magnets under the leather, or choosing a more suitable clasp for my next boxes. We also discussed the pros and cons of various tools we’ve bought; he’s very high-tech and enjoys designing on the computer like me. He must be the artisanal version of a “geek.”
A Da Nang and Hoi An, we stayed in 4 hotels… from very cheap to very expensive. When we want to enjoy the city, we go for a cheap hotel. And when we just want to relax and be pampered, we choose a resort like the Marriott Da Nang Resort & Spa (Booking link), where we had the best suite in the hotel with 3 balconies, 68m², ocean view (JB being a Marriott Gold member thanks to the Amex). The hotel is impressive with its 4 pools, 2 of which are infinity pools facing the beach. However, we’ve equipped our apartment in Lille so well that it surpasses the comfort of any 5-star hotel. JB really misses his pillow, and even at Marriott, we sleep worse than at home 😀
Anyway, I now understand why you shouldn’t skimp on the bed and shoes. When you have both, it feels like you’ve been upgraded in life.
There are other game-changerpurchases that we couldn’t afford when we were nomads, like wireless chargers. Now I have a wireless charger that’s great for my iPhone and AirPods. I even have a wireless power bank that’s a bit smaller than my iPhone, so I can leave for the day without worrying about carrying a charger or cable.
Incorporating Vietnamese silk into my daily life has also been very pleasant. I didn’t have much because I couldn’t wash it properly when I was a nomad, but now I have my own washing machine, so I can.
I often manage to find really cool suppliers or products. The receptionist at my hotel saw a ton of orders arriving at the lobby and asked me why I was shopping in Vietnam when, in her mind, French products should be superior. I open a package at random and show her silver leaves to put in tea to purify the water and get silver ions. This sparks a buying frenzy throughout the hotel, not only does she start buying, but also the cleaning lady, then other receptionists… not only is the product super useful and cute, but I also found a supplier that’s not expensive at all. Cherry on top: cautious as I am, I had the products tested, and I have the certificate confirming it was indeed 99.99% silver.
Many people encourage me to get into some kind of import/export. I think the closest idea is a concept store. I have artisans/suppliers found in all corners of the world who would be very happy to tackle the European market. But do you know why I won’t do it? Because I’m not interested in B2C at all. Customer service would bore me very quickly. My two girlfriends who got into it had to turn to B2B. Handmade products are not compatible with B2B.
I organized a small group order on Instagram for my followers, and to make my life easier, I had to restrict models and colors… and despite exceptional prices and awesome products, many people didn’t order because of the lack of choice (the downside of handmade). The other difficulty is that these exceptional products are so exceptional that people can’t realize their superiority just by looking at photos. They’ll compare to what they knew. But my traditional Vietnamese silk, for example, is completely different. The feel is unique in the world. Only Vietnamese people my age (or older) are used to using this type of silk. These group orders were fun, I didn’t earn anything, it mainly added weight to my suitcase 😀 but receiving this kind of feedback made me very happy.
In Hoi An, we’re looking for a chicken rice restaurant at 1:30 PM (very late to eat this kind of dish) when I feel drawn to a particularly busy restaurant. We turn around to go there. I order, then I hear the table next to us seemingly obsessed with a topic of conversation lol. They’re saying that the restaurant was empty when they came, but has been full since their arrival (while they’re sitting at the very back of the restaurant, invisible from the street). The man continues saying that every Tet, neighbors warmly call him to be the first guest to enter their homes (Vietnamese people think the first guest of the year brings luck, and they choose this guest carefully). Indeed, there are people who are walking good luck charms; it happens all the time to my mom. The restaurant might be empty, but as soon as she steps in, it becomes absolutely packed. And it also happens to me, to a lesser extent. JB is used to it now. Our cat Rosalie was also a lucky cat. It’s great to be around lucky people/cats, I highly recommend it!!! because this restaurant discovered by chance by lucky tourists was really good!
In Hoi An, JB goes back to his favorite tailor and the quality is plummeting. I think they changed their pattern maker. They can’t even make a shirt properly anymore. Shows that tailor Anh wasn’t that bad 😀 In Hanoi, I take JB shopping at Giordano, his favorite ready-to-wear brand, and the linen-cotton shirts there are better and cheaper than the made-to-measure ones in Hoi An. The difficulty with made-to-measure is the client’s brief not being precise enough, and the seamstress’s sloppy finishes. So choosing the artisan has always been difficult. Also, in Hoi An, it’s saleswomen who take the brief, not the seamstress herself. There are always modifications to be made because the seamstress doesn’t yet know the client’s preferences/measurements well. That’s why for made-to-measure, it’s better to have your own dedicated artisan (like in Hue where JB had 5 shirts made by a tailor who knows his preferences by heart). And every mistake has to be corrected. If there are no consequences for the artisan, they’ll repeat the same mistake. The simplest and safest is to copy a garment you already own and give it to the seamstress, who just makes a pattern from it and uses equivalent fabric.
I really enjoyed discovering the app Shopee, Asia’s equivalent of Amazon but better. For every product, even the cheapest, the app encourages people to post their review, unboxing… to earn virtual “coins”. So it’s really great! You immediately see what it looks like in real life, how to use it. Plus, you only pay on delivery. And the prices! Even Aliexpress costs more. There’s a product I spotted on Aliexpress for 15€; here on Shopee? 2€ including shipping! The Shopee delivery guy in our neighborhood is known by everyone, so when he learned I was at the hotel, I hadn’t even had time to take a taxi from the airport before he dropped off all my orders at the lobby, and he was going to come by later to collect the payment (which I’d left at the lobby). Asian e-commerce has totally surpassed European e-commerce in creating desire, need, and in ease of returns/exchanges/payments. Many Shopee products are directly linked to TikTok videos, I don’t know technically how it works, but it boosts content creators, without having to update links in a complex way like with affiliate systems in Europe. However, we also become aware of the pollution potential in Asia—with all these packages, all these plastic products so cheap that we buy just to satisfy the need to buy. We can also check the products upon delivery and refuse to accept them without paying a single cent, the delivery person will take care of the return themselves.
The remaining space in my suitcases was used to bring back a ton of books. Some books were bought directly from the publisher because they’re so rare (I even took the last dusty copy from the publisher) and there’s a discount when you buy from the publisher (unlike French law, which mandates the same price everywhere).
The rest is reserved for leather scraps. I’ve been trying to make a tote bag leather bag for shopping for a while, but the leathers I have aren’t suitable. Luckily, I found them at Zashop (Pomari’s swift) and 3Q (Weinheimer – “Odessa” Togo). I can’t wait to start the project.
My jeweler gave me some candies I used to eat when I was little. His sensitivity and insight always amaze me. I asked him how he knew about these candies. He replied: “People with the same background and age as you… I noticed they all liked these candies”. I continue to learn a lot about human relationships from him. His products are superb, but it’s his kindness and insight that make him successful. Everywhere we go, whether it’s a street vendor, a security guard… everyone appreciates him. Because he has the gift of seeing through people, knowing what might please them. I have two friends who can “read” people properly. They warned me about certain people (which turned out to be right). And all just by listening and observing people carefully. Something I can’t do. I tried to ask them for their secret, but I think this kind of thing is innate.
Photo: my jeweler and his latest creation: a sterling silver bracelet plated with platinum with Japanese Akoya saltwater cultured pearls
Knowing how to “read” people has something magical about it. My suitcase was full of gifts for the Vietnamese. I gave something very cheap but very subtle to a craftsman I’ve known for years. And the joy in his eyes was magical. I wish I had that talent, to be able to “read” correctly and give gifts that bring extreme pleasure like that. Because all they have to do is tell me what they want, I’ll find THE supplier and THE product without a problem. But many people don’t express their needs, and don’t even know what they need.
A final encounter shook me up, it was with my former music teacher. When I went to his place with a friend and he asked our names, I felt a sharp pang in my heart. Early Alzheimer’s. 94 years old. And yet, he continues to give lessons. Because music keeps him alive. I was his favorite student. When I told him, about twenty years ago, that I couldn’t pursue a career as a musician/composer, he was very disappointed. But now at 94, he has a different perspective: you can’t make a living from music. I learned that the brightest students of my time couldn’t have careers in music, even though they were more passionate than I was.
Asia: the dragon
People who don’t regularly visit Asia can’t understand just how dynamic the continent is. When most of the population is under 30, it’s not the same as aging countries like Japan or the West. It’s constantly moving, everyone is ready to deliver this or that to you within minutes, everyone is looking to make money, start businesses, take courses, learn 3-4 languages… The purchasing power of executives is enormous. My cousin, who is just a senior executive (manager level) , lives like a queen. Every day, she takes the equivalent of Uber to work because in her opinion, it costs less than buying a car. Also, she never cooks because everything is available in 2 clicks on Grab and Facebook. There are moms who cook organic meals and deliver their dishes as soon as you call. She travels several times a year in Asia, goes to 5-star hotels, and takes a trip to Europe from time to time. When she needs it, a masseuse comes to her home to give her a massage. She’s always impeccable (hair, manicure, pedicure, clothes). I think she has a better life than a French executive earning 6000€/month in France. Few people realize it, not even the Vietnamese. My aunt, a doctor, tells me that more and more “white people” come to Vietnam for surgery. It’s cheaper, the doctors are competent, post-op service is better, and above all NO WAITING. They can have surgery the same day if they want, just pay. Even Singapore sends difficult cases to Vietnam for surgery. I talk to the artisans and they tell me about “small” factories with 2000 workers. Opening a factory with 2000 workers in France would have made headlines in all French newspapers. Our friend J., whom we saw again in Da Nang, confirms this: here he is safe, he eats well, he lives well; he doesn’t even have a wallet, just a transparent pouch where you can see all his cash, but no one beats him up, whereas in France he was assaulted without reason on a beautiful Sunday in a nice Parisian neighborhood…
Returning to France seems hard for JB, who for two weeks had complete freedom of movement with his scooter. He tells me that if he becomes a barista FIRE someday, it will be to become a Grab driver ahahaha The return to Lille will be very long, but we’re seated at the emergency exit again, with three seats (we had a neighbor, but she changed seats because her screen wasn’t working ^^) and we’re super happy to get our 5-star comfort back.
