Train road trip: Bruges, Liège, Namur, Brussels (Belgium)

From Antwerp where we’re staying for a month, we do round trips to Bruges and Brussels, then visit Namur – Liège. The train is our favorite way to get around in Belgium. City centers are often close to the station, and Belgian trains are cheap and on time. They’re not as fast as the TGV, but given the short distances between cities, it’s a good way to get around.

Bruges

Of these cities, Bruges is the only one I’ve visited without JB. Italked about it in detail in another article. So I’ll just share some new photos. Since we had sunshine, they’re prettier than the ones I took in the other article.

Having slumbered for four centuries, Bruges escaped the transformations of industrialization. Today, it stands out with its magnificent old buildings, meticulously restored during the neo-Gothic wave of the 19th century. Its historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

JB and I didn’t pay for any tours; we just wandered around town, ate, bought chocolate, and also visited a shop dedicated to Tintin, that’s all! I highly recommend staying a night in Bruges to enjoy the city without tourists early in the morning or late at night. Last time, I stayed at the hotel Het Gheestelic Hof (74€, Booking link), super central. Bruges city center is easily walkable from the station, even with a medium-sized suitcase.

Liège

Liège is a city that surprises me immensely. I didn’t expect it to be this pretty and lively. At the same time, we come from Antwerp, where the Flemish don’t have the epicurean soul like the French-speaking side. Just walking down a small street full of little shops makes our eyes bigger than our stomachs, wanting to eat everything, buy everything. In the center of Liège hides the “Carré”: According to rumor, the Carré even holds an impressive record: the highest concentration of beer served per square meter… in the world!

We start with a visit to the cathedral. There’s a detailed explanation about the restoration of the stained glass windows, and how they should be properly restored.

Then there’s a small exhibition on a Korean artist (Father Kim En Joong) who replaced the completely destroyed windows with his own stained glass, which I don’t find very pretty but quite artistic. A few months later, during a visit to Chartres Cathedral, in the basement of the cathedral there is a stained glass window by the same artist, and when the guide mentions his name, I vaguely remember hearing about him somewhere, but where? In which cathedral? Normally, I would have commented, “Oh yes, that same Korean gentleman (because I never remember names) made stained glass for Liège Cathedral in Belgium!” But since I’m in my “goldfish” phase, it takes me a good 15 minutes to match his name with Liège Cathedral, and the guide has moved on. There’s a specific place and time to drop remarks like that, and I’m 15 minutes late. I can no longer add my two cents: mentioning Liège Cathedral 15 minutes later is like laughing at a joke you only get 15 minutes later.

What I love most about this cathedral is its magnificent pulpit. At the back, you discover a Lucifer of breathtaking beauty! If Lucifer were really like that, hell would suddenly become paradise!

We look for a place to eat, and everywhere we go, there are signs saying things like “asparagus have arrived!” At the greengrocers, white asparagus are displayed like gold bars, and we decide to go for… asparagus. The recipe is simple: seasonal asparagus, a bit of olive oil, some smoked salmon, then some cured ham and VOILA!!! It’s better than in my imagination, but pricier than it should be. Thanks, inflation!

We stroll up to the Citadel of Liège, then slowly descend via the Montagne de Bueren, a staircase of over 300 steps. I wonder how locals manage to climb the hill to their homes every day, but they must be very sporty after a few months.

The city is very pleasant, but big enough for long walks.

For the evening, we weigh the pros and cons: between bringing back smelly cheeses in our bag, since we’re heading home to Antwerp soon, or eating them right away. We’re weak, we ate everything that day! Not to mention treating ourselves to some sushi, because they cost more in Antwerp than here.

We spend the night in Liège at ibis Styles Liège Guillemins (Booking link) and take the train the next day to Namur.

Namur

I’ve heard great things about the citadel of Namur, and I go to see if it’s true. I think I got the name of the city wrong, because I don’t see where its beauty is. We take a cable car up to the citadel of Namur, then opt for a train that takes us around the citadel, but it’s very meh.

Luckily, while wandering a bit, JB discovers a large square where e-MTB manufacturers offer free test rides. Without hesitation, JB signs up and tries two e-MTBs he really likes. We didn’t know e-MTBs existed, and it’s impressive how fast you can go on these bikes. The price is impressive too, but the weight is almost featherweight.

After this very boring visit, we head back down to the old town and it’s much prettier, more lively, full of little shops and culinary temptations—I much prefer it!!! Namur is the administrative capital of Wallonia and the Walloon Parliament is based at the foot of the citadel. Despite its serious side, its shopping streets will win over more than a few! Meanwhile, I’m filling my bag with sausages.

Brussels

We’ve been to Brussels several times, but every time, we’re blown away by the beauty of its Grand Place. Depending on the weather, it can be very pretty, or exceptionally pretty.

This time we decide to shake off our laziness and head to theAtomium, built for the 1958 World’s Fair. It represents the basic unit cell of iron (not a molecule or an atom) magnified 165 billion times. It’s a blessing that it (like the Eiffel Tower) wasn’t demolished after the expo, because honestly, from the outside, it’s impressive.

It takes us 1.5 hours to get inside, because it’s packed, but we finally make it and take the escalators to explore its different levels. We go from a museum explaining the project to some artistic rooms that boost the senses, up to the top floor. People look tiny down below. Honestly, it’s an experience I’ll never repeat in my life, because I think 1.5 hours of waiting for that is too much. We should have booked.

Is it a crime to eat cheesy baked mussels and fries in Belgium? I prefer them to the classic mussels and fries.

Our trip to Belgium ends with food, of course. After Belgium, we head back to France. While JB reunites with his family, I visit Rouen , and Chartres. Once we realized our apartment in Nice would be delivered very late, we left for Turkey and then Sofia.