Asia,  TDM,  Thailand,  Travel Journal

Koh Samui & Koh Phangan with our nomad friends (Thailand)

Since May 2021, we hadn’t seen a single familiar face, so when our two nomad friends J. and F. announced they were coming to see us in Koh Samui, at the same time, we were over the moon.

Part 1: Travel Journal
Part 2: Practical Tips

Part 1: Travel Journal

They’re seasoned travelers and true “travel hackers,” so this week together turned into an “upgrade to 5-star hotels.” The first one loves switching hotels, so thanks to him, we were able to crash at a few in Koh Samui. The second one gifted us Marriott Bonvoy Gold status (his status allows him to gift it to someone for a year), which we’ll get to enjoy plenty later on.

Right now, the rates are super affordable. Thai residents get incredible discounts, up to -70% (deals not available to tourists). Koh Samui has just barely reopened to Bangkok’s jet-set and tourists. Compared to Phuket, Koh Samui has always been a bit more luxurious, due to Bangkok Airways’ monopoly on the island’s only airport (and the ticket prices), hence the presence of about twenty 5-star hotels, whose names already make you dream: Ritz-Carlton, Six Senses, Anantara, Banyan Tree, Melia…

Celes Hotel

We opted for the 5-star CELES hotel, which we really loved when we crashed there last time (Booking.com link, Agoda link). We concluded that its restaurant, with very large tables and power outlets, would let us all four work together. The internet connection is a bit flaky from time to time, but luckily we always have 4G with us. For a 5-star hotel, the decor, the rooms… are gorgeous, but the service is still too inconsistent, in the Thai way. What a shame!

When we asked for a work desk in the room (similar to the one at the restaurant), we were surprised to see them show up with a real office desk. So nice! Because it allows us to work in the room even when the restaurant is closed (after 9 PM). Here, the bed is wider than it is long, but you get used to it pretty quickly 😀 What I love most is the shower with a glass ceiling, so it feels like you’re showering in nature, but without the downsides.

You can check out our room in this video

Despite the concrete everywhere, this hotel is really stunning.

I love their spa so much. The massage is divine (and we’ve tested a ton all over the world). We came back on purpose (without being hotel guests) because it was so unforgettable. Really luxurious, with a little questionnaire to fill out at the start to indicate where you have pain and want/don’t want to be massaged. Right now, the massage is on promo and only costs 700 baht, a more than fair price for a 5-star hotel. I also love their saltwater pool, the view from that pool… It’s a feast for the eyes. The beach isn’t very nice, though, but all the luxury hotels in the area share the same beach anyway…

Anantara

I don’t need to introduce the Anantara hotel next door. I brought my friends to “crash” the hotel for a lunch. Their restaurant isn’t supposed to open at noon (only the bar is open), but they did it just for us.

Melia Koh Samui

Our friend spent a few days at Melia Koh Samui (Booking.com link, Agoda link) so we got to visit the hotel (and his room in an old boat – incredible!). The pool is beautiful but less big than we imagined from the photos. However, they’ve designed the pool like a sort of river, so that several ground-floor rooms have access to a section of the main pool. There’s also a slide. The garden area is huge; it took us several minutes to reach the restaurant facing the beach.

W Koh Samui

The same friend also spent a few nights at W, allowing us to visit the public areas of the hotel, from the beach to the bar near the lobby, via the pool where there’s no one. Personally, it’s the hotel I like the least, because it’s on a slope and you have to walk a very long time between each part of the hotel. I don’t like hotels where you’re completely dependent on the hotel’s buggies (small electric cars to get from one point to another) and where every move requires a call to reception.

However, this is where you get a panoramic view of Koh Phangan & that part of the island. We saw several boats, sailboats… Come have a drink at the bar, you’ll be in for a visual treat!

It’s not easy to describe exactly the vibe that prevailed during this week. We were just good together. JB was afraid this week would awaken my taste for luxury and bling-bling, and he’s not wrong, especially since right after Thailand, we plan to spend some time in Dubai – another ultra bling-bling place.

We went out for dinner again at Coco Tam’s. For the first time, we had to wait to get a table, proof that tourism is picking back up. We’re both happy for the Thais, but also sad because it means the return of mass tourism, which we’d forgotten for over two years. At the end of dinner, just as the daily 8 PM show is barely ending, rain falls within seconds and hundreds of customers try their best to take shelter inside. Cars parade by, taxis too… the streets flood within seconds. We waited a good while before getting back on the scooter.

A bit of street food

We took advantage of our quick stop in Koh Samui to finally see I. and P., our French expat friends who love feeding dogs. We were supposed to go feed them together, but a downpour prevented us—so they told us about their trip to Dubai instead. They’re the ones who convinced us of the must-do activities in Dubai, so instead of staying 10 days, we’re extending to 15.

They introduced us to another local restaurant. It feels good after several days of monotonous food in 5-star hotels.

Koh Phangan

J. had to leave before the hour. We head back to Koh Phangan with F. (who’s been living in northern Thailand for years) to show him why we love this island so much. On the agenda with the Anh agency:

  1. dinner with homemade spring rolls & discovering other restaurants we really like like Beach Garden and the Belgian Restaurant
  2. snorkeling at Koh Ma (we chartered a fisherman’s boat for a quiet little excursion, from Chaloklum to Koh Ma) about two hours long (1000 bahts)
  3. e-foil introduction (we talked about it here)
  4. sunset at Hin Kong
  5. beach and we showed him places where he could work when he came back to Koh Phangan

I think my program to promote Koh Phangan worked well because he told us he’d come back 😀

Two pieces of bad news cast a little shadow over this idyllic week: I took advantage of my stop in Koh Samui to see an ENT. Verdict: perforated eardrum, no idea how. I’m banned from the pool and ocean until it fully heals (which can take several months). Secondly: during the snorkeling at Koh Ma, my camera Insta 360 Go 2 came loose and went to feed the fish at the bottom of the ocean. I didn’t think I’d need it all the time, but unfortunately I missed it every day. The brand sold me the replacement part fortunately, but I won’t have it before Christmas 2021 🙁

Other than that, we loved this week spent with our friends. In this pandemic context, we appreciate every moment with loved ones even more. And in such a wonderful setting, in such luxurious conditions, it’s even more unforgettable 😀

Part 2: Practical Tips

  • Celes Hotel: we got a deal at €93.5/night at Celes—breakfast included for two (Booking.com link, Agoda link) : very well located and the large tables at the restaurant are perfect for remote work
  • Melia Hotel: expect €100 to €120 per night right now (Booking.com link, Agoda link) : there are also very large tables in the restaurants & in the lobbies at Melia
  • Koh Phangan: go to Leo restaurant in Chaloklum, the guy who works there is a fisherman and can take you snorkeling on his nice fishing boat.
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