Winter Mountain Weekend (Montenegro): Durmitor, Zabljak, Kolasin

After a month and a half in Montenegro, this is the first time we’ve ventured to the north of the country. We struggled with the very dangerous roads near the sea, so we hesitated a lot about going to the mountains, fearing icy roads in bad condition. We have chains in the trunk but no experience using them. We decided to spend only 3 days in the mountains, just to see how it goes, and come back later in March if we like it.

We can admire the beautiful view of the sunny beach from our Airbnb in Budva in the morning, then find ourselves with 2 meters of snow on both sides of the road a few hours later. That’s the advantage of being in a small country with such varied landscapes as Montenegro.

Part 1: Travel Journal
Part 2: Practical Tips

Part 1: Travel Journal

Note: we usually rent an apartment for a month, then radiate from our base. We don’t give up the apartment every time because renting for a month straight lets us pay up to 50% less. So even if we pay double rent for a few days when we go on a weekend trip, we still come out ahead and don’t have to lug all our stuff around every time.

Day 1: Budva – Zabljak

Let me show you the dreamlike landscape we glimpsed passing near Cetinje (Google Maps link), on the way to the Durmitor massif.

Seeing so much fog, we worry a bit about the cold in the mountains, but the fog is only on a small part of the road. Then there’s 30 minutes of roadworks (but we drive fine, the car just gets dirty), and we start being in the clouds, literally.

Snow starts appearing on the sides. JB and I wonder when we’ll need to put on the snow chains.

Before leaving, we did watch YouTube videos on how to put on chains and checked that the rental agency gave us 2 chains.

Then we drive and drive… and the road remains completely clear, despite several meters of snow on the sides. We’re so happy: actually, we won’t need snow chains.

Before, we didn’t have much money, and mountain vacations were not part of our plans at all (JB went skiing only twice as a kid, Anh skied a few hours during a team building with her company. It’s not our world at all). When we finally could travel abroad, we always chose the sun. So this is our first “ski weekend” together. That’s why we’re both very excited but not reassured.

I think we’re right to worry because Montenegrin highways only have two lanes. To pass, cars don’t hesitate to overtake right on a blind curve; we nearly had two cars head-on (including an ambulance!!) because they were overtaking and couldn’t get back in. JB, after a month and a half in Montenegro, too used to the dangerous behavior of Montenegrin drivers, isn’t even shocked anymore to avoid accidents by inches. Usually, we’d have been traumatized and turned back, stomach in knots. Ahaha. But this time is fine; driver JB quickly forgot the incident and drove as if nothing had happened.

At one point, we had to wait for the road to be cleared because there was a mini avalanche blocking the road. But they seem very efficient here and have big resources. We’re very impressed because we didn’t think they could take care of the roads so well in such a small country.

Approaching Žabljak, where our hotel is tonight, only the main roads are cleared. The smaller roads are buried under several meters of snow. We find it hilarious when Google Maps tells us to turn left, and we end up face-to-face with 3 meters of snow. At one spot, the snow is completely cleared, revealing a cute little restaurant: Izvor (Google Maps link)

This restaurant has a view of a ski resort, though we’re too far to see the chairlifts and slopes.

They have lots of traditional dishes, including the boiled lamb, which I find particularly delicious for only 8.5€. JB’s kebab (on the right) is just grilled meat, nothing special. We pay 18.5€ for two, drinks included. Card payment accepted. A very good spot!

Savin Kuk Ski Centre

From the restaurant, you take the blue trail, which is cleared because part of the gray trail is covered in snow.

As soon as we take smaller roads (white on Google Maps), the quality drops: more potholes, one side of the road is half cleared, so cars pass each other with some difficulty, but it’s doable. You just have to drive slowly.

We manage to find a spot in the main parking lot, but we saw many cars parked along the road. I think even on weekdays, if you want a parking spot, you need to come early. Coming around 3pm like us, there are spots, but the sun goes behind the mountain pretty quickly and you get cold fast. Here’s the ski resort map. I think it might be my favorite. It’s small but well-equipped: with 2 double chairlifts, 1 T-bar, and a separate slope for beginners. I really like this setup because it keeps you off the same slope as experienced skiers speeding down while you’re learning.

I think here, the blue slope is like a green slope in France. The red, however, seems really red, and the black one makes me dizzy just looking at it.

Here are the rates for the passes. The one-day pass costs €10, versus €25 on average in France if I’m not mistaken. Plus, hotels in the area are very affordable; you can find them, even in high season, from €30 a night without any problem. There are even chalets with private hot tubs and saunas. The car we’re renting in Tivat costs us €15/day. I think Montenegro is clearly a budget-friendly destination for winter sports.

I know ski resorts are closed in France. If you’re too jealous, and if it comforts you, we didn’t ski at all in Montenegrobecause I don’t know how to ski, and JB hasn’t skied in about fifteen years and is apprehensive about getting back into it (he hurt his knee badly on his last ski vacation). So don’t hate us!

Update: we went back 3 weeks later to ski. You can be jealous, but still don’t hate us!

We pay €5 each (round trip) to take the chairlift just to look at the scenery. Card payment is accepted.

What’s cool for beginner skiers is that you can stop in the middle to take slope number 3. However, the stop is very quick, so as soon as you see a cabin on the right, get ready to get off. You see children skiing alone and doing just fine. They must live around here and know this mountain by heart.

When you reach the end, you have to get off the chairlift before turning around on the other side’s chairlift. It’s a bit complicated to explain, but there’s always someone to help you get off and let you know what to do. Here, even without skis, the guy took my hand so I could get off safely (because this is the first time in my life I’ve taken a chairlift, yes indeed). I was really scared of falling off badly and then getting hit by the chairlift in the butt and ending up face-first in the snow, but this gentleman was a big help.

Those of you who are more used to it than me have surely forgotten the feeling of taking it for the first time. I was really scared seeing so much empty space under my feet. Being in such an open structure, at such a high altitude, and with so much wind, strikes me as very impressive.

Today, the second chairlift is out of order because you can see the trace of a big avalanche. Same, it’s the first time I see what an avalanche looks like. JB, during his internship for Mont Blanc, has already seen a real avalanche, but on the mountain across. I don’t know if you can see the second chairlift in this photo, but it seems to go up really, really high. The view from that second chairlift must be breathtaking.

We’re so lucky! The weather is gorgeous and the view is clear. Those of you who can ski are so lucky to see such beautiful scenery every year.

We travel with clothes for all four seasons, so we have what we need to protect ourselves from the cold. However, staying here still for long minutes is enough to freeze my hands. Appreciate these photos because I fought the cold to take them for you (at -2°C)

See the forest on the left? Well, you can cross it on snowshoes to get to Black Lake. The trail is 6.7km, 2 hours. You can do it alone or with a guide. Here’s a sign that sums up this hike well:

There’s a restaurant and a café at the bottom of the slope, but with the sun already hiding behind the summit, it suddenly gets cold.

At the top, we see a couple arriving with skis on. The girl can’t stay standing and leave the chairlift area. She tells me it’s her very first day of skiing. Eventually, she has to take the chairlift back down (because the only slope to ski down is a red run).

Update: JB skied down that red run alone. He fell and slid non-stop for 50 meters, so you need a good level. It’s irresponsible to take someone to the top of a red run on their first day of skiing.

This story brings back very bad memories: my first ski lesson during a team building. Our boss at the time was kind enough to pay for ski lessons for my two newbie colleagues and me. Unfortunately, we got an unsympathetic (and useless) instructor. Not only did he not teach me the basics, but after just 45 minutes of lessons, we took the cable car all the way to the top. I kept heading towards the black run, got yelled at by other skiers who were going crazy fast, and had no choice but to let myself fall.

Then, since the lesson was over, he left us up there at the top of the slope, and I had to carry my super heavy skis, crying, to get back to the cable car and go down. I kept a horrible experience from skiing and thought I was too useless and too stupid to understand. Especially since my colleagues, even with the same instructor, managed to ski down the green run like pros on the first day. When he heard about it, my old boss offered me another lesson, but I refused, thinking I was too bad at skiing. I later learned that this resort did have a rope tow and a slope only for beginners, but the instructor didn’t take us there.

Žabljak

We get back in the car to our hotel, which is only a 10-minute drive away.

I’ll show you what the center of Žabljak, the highest town in Southeast Europe and the gateway to the national park Durmitor. With several meters of snow on either side of the road, it’s hard to tell which shops are open and which are closed. In front of the guesthouses, next to the piles of snow, there are just one or two completely clear parking spots. It’s impressive. Some roads have two centimeters of snow and ice on them, but nobody puts on snow chains, so we just drive slowly, avoiding the cars parked at the side of the road.

The receptionist at our hotel is thrilled to see us because it’s been ages since he last saw foreign tourists (well, non-regional foreigners; there seem to be some Russian and Albanian visitors) and he immediately upgrades our room, with a view of the mountain and the little chalets. It’s a suite with a small kitchenette for making breakfast, and a private sauna (included in the price) due to Covid.

I highly recommend this hotel because not only were we treated very well (a little dessert offered in room service without asking for anything), the receptionist speaks perfect English (which is rare) and the restaurant is delicious and inexpensive (it’s one of the most renowned in town). Not to mention the proximity to the ski resort & the Black Lake.

Hotel SOA (Booking link), 68€ for a double room, sauna access and breakfast included. Expect to pay 20€ for dinner for two, at one of the best tables in town

The wifi is decent, but not exceptional. If you want to work from here, you’d better rely on your 4G (which is very cheap in Montenegro), JB talked about it here.

Just admire this view from our balcony!

When leaving the hotel, JB slipped on the tiled floor and nearly took a spectacular fall. By some miracle, I was walking right next to him and managed to catch him, without slipping myself, luckily. Clearly, trail shoes are not at all suited to mountain life.

Day 2

Black Lake – Crno Jezero

There are 18 glacial lakes in the area, but Black Lake is the largest and it’s frozen in winter. It sits at 1417 meters above sea level and gets its name because its waters reflect the dense trees, creating an impression of dark water, though in reality the water is emerald (in summer).

We can either walk from our hotel or drive to the Black Lake parking lot. Of course, I chose to drive because I saw many pedestrians struggling with their unsuitable shoes. Parking costs 2€, and access costs us 3€/person (since it’s part of Durmitor National Park). I’m not sure the locals pay, but whatever. Cash only.

Once the car is parked, we still have to walk 750m on the packed snow, through the trees. With our trail shoes, we don’t slip (too much), but we’re not 100% reassured either. It reminds me of my one-year internship in Norway. Everyone told me that any foreigner coming to Norway ends up breaking a leg or an arm during their first Norwegian year, but I was too poor to afford such an accident, I told them “not me!” and adopted “the penguin walk,” very effective against falls, and it worked, surprisingly!

And here’s the lake, completely frozen, and you can walk on it without worry. We admire Bear Peak (2288m) in the distance.

We each get a hot chocolate (2.5€) at the restaurant. The view is sublime, especially with this gorgeous weather

They also rent out sleds for 5€ (no time limit). It would have been a shame to miss out. So we go sledding from the little hill on the side. I must be so bad at sports that even after sledding, I’m sore all over. Hahaha. The kids come here with traditional wooden sleds, it’s so much fun that we’re grinning from ear to ear.

I’m showing you a photo taken in summer to show you the lake’s structure. JB wanted to go to the narrow part to reach the second section of the lake, but a man signaled that he risked ending up soaked (and frozen)

In summer, it might be interesting to head to Piva Lake, created artificially during the construction of a dam, and swim at the little beach at Pluzine, but that means taking the P14 road, one of the most dangerous (because narrow) in Montenegro. I’d be willing to take it in summer, but in winter, I don’t dare.

Javorovaca

We get back in the car to head to the second ski resort at Žabljak. There’s hardly any car in the parking lot. This resort is much smaller, with just a ski lift, I think. Today, the ski lift isn’t operational, and an instructor is giving ski lessons to kids. I think this resort is for me. Hahaha. Update: the ski lift still wasn’t operational when we returned at the end of February.

This restaurant also offers half-board rooms, right at the foot of the slope. You need to send your reservation request directly on their website (I don’t know the rates). Skis can also be rented on site (expect up to 10€/day in Montenegro).

I read online that there are shuttles serving both ski resorts from the city center, but I don’t know how it’s organized or how often they run. On weekdays, it’s totally possible to find a parking spot, ~~but I don’t know what it’s like on weekends~~ on weekends, it’s best to come before 10am or after 3pm.

Đurđevića Tara Bridge

We head to this beautiful bridge to get a view of the Tara River Canyon, the second deepest canyon in the world, after the Grand Canyon (with walls sometimes reaching 1300m high). In summer, there’s no shortage of activities: white-water rafting, swimming, kayaking, ziplining…

This famous bridge is made of concrete, but that doesn’t stop it from being quite lovely. The bridge’s history is quite sad according to Wikipedia: “Much of Montenegro, including the Tara River Canyon, was occupied by Italian armed forces after the German invasion of Yugoslavia in April 1941. As the mountainous terrain was suitable for guerrilla warfare, a partisan-led uprising occurred in the region. The Italians took control of the Tara bridge during an offensive in 1942. A Yugoslav Partisan blew up the central arch with the help of one of the bridge’s engineers, Lazar Jaukovic. This attack cut the only possible crossing over the Tara River Canyon and slowed the Italian advance. Jaukovic was, however, captured and executed. A commemorative plaque on the new bridge recalls his heroic act.”

We’re accompanied by the cutest dog, who shows me his ball for me to play with him. He follows us to the middle of the bridge but doesn’t dare go further. There’s a honey stand near the statue, for 5€ you get delicious and probably organic honey, I love it!

The views from the bridge are incredible. Don’t hesitate to walk on the bridge, there’s a bit of room for pedestrians and very little traffic.

The water is truly as blue as in the photos. It makes you want to jump in! There’s a café at the end of the bridge, with a lovely terrace, very well rated.

Taking the road that runs along the canyon, there are a few viewpoints where you can see the water up close. There are surely spots to go further down and swim, but since that’s not relevant in winter, we didn’t look.

This viewpoint is stunning. You can find it on Google Maps: 42.95654, 19.57608

We drive non-stop to Mojkovac, where we’ll spend the night.

Mojkovac isn’t anything special, but it’s the crossroads between the park of Durmitor and that of Biogradska Gora. Hotel Serdar (Booking link) costs only 29.5€ (double room) and their restaurant serves hearty traditional dishes for cheap. The beef goulash is very similar to French boeuf bourguignon. Montenegrin bread is delicious. Our meal cost 19.2€ for two, including drinks and (a) dessert.

Day 3

It’s the big day! After being blown away by the ski infrastructure, we decide to head to Kolasin, which has two huge ski resorts to see if we can rent ski gear for our stay at the end of February. We randomly stop at a ski rental shop (there are plenty here), and the prices are very appealing:

Ski/boots/poles rental: €10/day, €8/day if rented by the week
Ski clothing rental: €8/day, €6/day if rented by the week
Helmet rental: €3/day
Goggles rental: €2/day
Ski lessons: €25 for a 45-minute lesson

In short, it’ll cost us €20/day + the ski pass if we show up without any gear.

If we at least have the clothes and goggles, it’ll cost us €10/day to rent the skis and €15/day for the pass = €25/day maximum. Very interesting prices compared to France.

After some thought, JB figures it’s more economical to have his mom send him his mountain clothes via DHL (and then he sends them back to France), rather than renting clothes & gear by the day. As for me, since I have nothing, I’ll buy clothes there.

In Kolasin, there are 2 resorts: 1450 and 1600.

Kolasin 1450

1450 is much bigger than 1600, but since 1600 is newer (opened in 2019), everyone heads there. The parking lot is tiny (maybe enough for 20 cars), so cars line up along the road. But there are police officers showing us where to park, which makes things much easier. They always leave the curves empty, so two cars can pass each other.

Here’s the map of the 1450 resort. Unfortunately, since we didn’t know, we didn’t stop there. I honestly think this resort is more suitable for beginners like me, even though it’s still huge compared to the one we saw at Durmitor. There’s a slope dedicated only to kids and noobs. Another slope, very wide, for beginners but shared with those just coming down the red run (not great). Anyway, with its two huge chairlifts (both working right now), you get your money’s worth.

Let me show you some photos taken from the other resort. You can see the slopes of Kolasin 1450 from far away.

Cars park along the road for several kilometers. It’s a shame because the police don’t let people drop off up top (with their skis) and then park below later (the road is too narrow). So people end up carrying their super heavy gear for 1 km or more, especially if they arrive too late. There are always some idiots who park carelessly and block 3-4 cars in. They just leave a phone number on their windshield so those who need to leave can call them. Because of them, even an ambulance wouldn’t get through if needed.

Kolasin 1600

Here is the map of Kolasin 1600, where we took the chairlift. There’s only one chairlift and a tiny bunny slope (which is hard to see on the map).

The lift ticket prices are very affordable: €15/day and €5 to go to the summit if you’re not skiing. No matter the country, skiing is an expensive sport. €15 is about two lunches at a restaurant in Montenegro.

It seems you can store your skis here for cheap. You can also rent them, but some people complain about the poor quality of the skis (I can’t confirm).

It’s extremely crowded (it’s the weekend). Since this resort is close to Podgorica, the capital, and not far from the Albanian border, it’s super busy. There seems to be an issue with Albanians, as I’ve read on several Google reviews that Albanians are refused service and refused room rentals just because they’re Albanian. I don’t know why this racism exists, but it’s sad.

I’m not in a familiar environment, I’m not equipped to walk on the snow, and experienced skiers keep whizzing past me, scaring the life out of me. The lack of consideration and politeness, especially in a difficult environment for me, always infuriates me, so I don’t like this resort at all, as people are constantly trampling over each other. Today the slopes aren’t packed; it’s mainly in front of the chairlift that there are queues. The wait is still pretty quick: about 15 minutes.

There are 4 seats per chairlift, and despite health rules, people share the chairlift with strangers without a second thought. We’re the only ones wearing masks. I now understand better why ski resorts are closed in France because they can’t wait 3 seconds for the next chairlift.

The chairlifts here are more high-tech than the one at Durmitor. They slow down well at the end. I didn’t even need help getting off.

The view is breathtaking; you can see dozens of peaks from here. However, there are 2 black runs and 2 red runs right next to it, and seeing almost vertical slopes scares me a lot.

JB hikes to the top on foot. It’s too steep, it’s windy, and I’m afraid I can’t get down, so I let him go alone while I play photographer for the tourists below.

JB follows the last set of footprints but doesn’t dare go further because he’s scared too. We’ll never know what’s behind that snow line 😀 But in my opinion, it’s empty ^^.

At the bottom of the resort, there’s a tiny run for beginners. People cling to a rope that pulls them to the top, then they ski down without poles. The run is so small that I saw a lady fall headfirst into the snow, and no one even cared. I’m truly traumatized by this ski resort.

Not to mention the restaurant that’s packed despite COVID…

After this traumatic morning, JB and I decide that we’ll take lessons at the small, quiet resort in the countryside at Durmitor, during the week. Once JB and I fully master the slopes at our levels there, we can come back to Kolasin, to the nearby 1450 resort, which has more beginner slopes and lower ones. I’ll definitely have an instructor with me because I don’t feel confident alone, but JB, after 2-3 hours of lessons, should get back to his level and manage on his own.

Restaurant Savardak

JB finds a really nice restaurant nearby Savardak, shaped like a hut. From the outside, the hut doesn’t look that big, but inside, there are 5 tables for 4 and a heater in the middle.

We opt for the Kacamak, without really knowing what it is. €16 for two and it’s delicious! It’s a bit like potato gratin, with Montenegrin cheese, not too strong.

And we try their sour milkfor the first time, fermented milk, a traditional yogurt with a taste way too strong for me. But I still try to eat some because it’s great for the skin and gut flora (lots of probiotics). The meal cost us €20 for two, drinks included. A great deal, I recommend it! Card payment accepted.

JB shows me the puppies hiding under the hut. There are 5 of them and they’re super cute. They’re very curious but don’t dare approach me. One of them keeps chewing on the other puppies, and even JB’s shoes; he must be teething. The cats and dogs in Montenegro are all cute and most are cuddly. Unfortunately, rabies hasn’t been eradicated in the country, so avoid touching animals outside tourist areas.

Moraca Monastery

Looking at the photos of this monastery, I don’t understand why everyone flocks there. But once on site, despite the noise of the highway right next to it, I’m charmed by the waterfall and the sound of water, channeled to the monastery. All it’s missing is a watermill.

The main church is magnificent. The interior is covered with images like this. And the chapel at the back of the church, with its Italian-style dome, is beautiful. The visit costs €2/person. Once again, this fee seems to apply only to tourists, but it’s worth it. Note that photos and videos are prohibited inside to preserve the paintings, because as you can see from the paintings outside, the sun damages them quickly. There’s another small room to the right of the main entrance with beautiful paintings—don’t miss it!

The garden, cared for by the nuns, must be lovely in summer. There are two adorable dogs and kittens sharpening their claws on tree trunks, chasing each other.

Feel free to head to the playground to see that charming old bridge. No idea how to get down to the bottom. The water of the Morača canyon is so blue!

On the way back, we are amazed by this dreamlike scenery (Google Maps link).

The road itself is an engineering feat, running along the canyon, with many tunnels and bridges connecting the mountains. At one point, you catch a glimpse of the canyon, very deep, with vertical rocky walls. In this direction (Moraca => Budva), it’s impossible to stop at the viewpoints, but if you go the other way, you can stop and enjoy the dreamy views. Overtaking is very difficult here, as there are bends every 100 meters. We saw cars overtaking on bends and had a heart attack every time.

There’s a huge bridge under construction; it will be very beautiful and impressive once completed. This new motorway will connect Podgorica (the capital) to the ski resorts in just 30 minutes (and 45 minutes from the airport). There’s a project costing billions of euros to build 224km of ski slopes, 52 ski lifts, and several hotels (with 1600 rooms) at the foot of the slopes. I honestly think they should consider widening the parking lots first.

To end this travel diary on a high note, here’s a photo of baby Rosalie, my cat who’s always in Paris, staying warm and sleeping on her many blankets as she likes to.

The rest of our adventure in Montenegro, is right here

Part 2: Practical Tips

Tips

We had roads under construction on our way directly from Budva to Durmitor, but these roads aren’t dangerous; you just need to slow down and take turns.
Following Google Maps, the yellow roads on the map are all clear and in perfect condition. The white roads aren’t all clear, so if your hotel isn’t in the city center, contact them before coming to know the best route to get there in winter.
These roads shouldn’t be a problem in summer. Renting a small but powerful car, like our Skoda Rapid, is recommended, as roads are only two lanes, and some parts are quite steep and require the car not to slide backward.
For your safety, buy a SIM card with phone credit to be able to call in Montenegro. JB shows you which company and which card to buy here
If you’re coming to ski, it’s not necessarily worth bringing your own skis, as they’re cheap to rent here. However, do bring your clothes, goggles, gloves… because in Durmitor, these items are harder to rent than in Kolasin.
Bring some cash as some places don’t accept card payments. Note that Montenegro is not in the eurozone, so card payments will incur fees (even when paying in euros). Choose a free international card here.

Budget

Total: €315.7 for 3 days, 2 nights for 2 people, all included

Transport: car rental €15/day with Hertz Tivat (compare rental offers to find the cheapest with Rent a car here)
Gas: €40 for 3 days
Accommodation:
- Hotel SOA in Zabljak (Booking link), €68 for the double room, sauna access and breakfast included. Budget €20 for dinner for two
- Hotel Serdar in Mojkovac (Booking link): €29.5 for the double room
Restaurants: for two, drinks included
- in Zabljak, at Izvor restaurant: €18.5
- at Hotel SOA in Zabljak: €28.5
- at the Black Lake café: €5
- at the restaurant of Hotel Sedar: €19.2
- at Savardak restaurant near Kolasin: €20
Visits:
- Chairlift at Savin Kuk: €5/person
- Visit to Black Lake: €3/person + €2 parking
- Chairlift at Kolasin 1600: €5/person
- Visit to the monastery: €2/person

If you prefer to pay for excursions, you can check out the activities offered by Civitatis (link) and Viator (link, a Tripadvisor company) in Montenegro.

All addresses and places mentioned in this article are on our custom Google Map. You can access it for free by clicking here