My review of Biologique Recherche’s Lotion P50 PIGM 400 (before/after photos)

Recently, I came across the videos and stories of the famous New York dermatologist Shereene Idriss (Instagram, YouTube, personal website). She’s really great, she has amazing skin (see her video for Allure). Since she’s of Lebanese origin and went to a French high school, she knows all kinds of products, including many available in Europe, I highly recommend following her.

Her skincare routine boils down to this:

1. Makeup removal
2. Cleansing
3. Chemical exfoliation (2-3 times a week)
4. Serum
5. Moisturizer

I have the same routine if not more 🙂 but instead of using chemical exfoliation, I’ve only used physical scrubs (grainy, or ones that turn into grains) until now.

For the “chemical exfoliation” part, she keeps recommending the Lotion P50 from Biologique Recherche. It’s a chemical exfoliant I’ve heard about for years (following Caroline Hirons and Skinandtonics), but I still needed a little push to get started.

You should know that in North America, the use of acids and retinols on the face is more popular than in Europe. And using AHA, BHA… doesn’t scare anyone. Since my Hydrafacial treatment was a great success, I concluded that AHA/BHA exfoliation suited me particularly well and was the reason for my baby-soft skin after the treatment.

So I went looking for a P50 lotion at Montréal. Biologique Recherche is a French brand but very few French women have heard of it because it’s exclusively distributed through spas. To buy their products, you need to be advised by an esthetician. In Montreal, I found it at P H Santé Beauté, a spa also owned by naturopaths.

Lotion P50 from Biologique Recherche

Made famous by a renowned facialist and then famous bloggers, stars are also starting to use it. Despite its high price tag and selective distribution network, this exfoliant nicknamed “Jesus in a bottle” has devotees all over the world.

30 years of thought and experience have gone into developing this unique program. The P50 Lotions support the skin’s natural exfoliation process and thus the rebuilding of the epidermal barrier. The strengthened epidermis can then fully exercise its protective functions and its tremendous self-regenerating potential.

The original version, created in 1970, contains phenol, an ingredient banned in Europe. It’s still found in the United States, but for my sensitive skin, I cross it off my list right away.

There are other versions (Lotion P50, P50V, P50W, P50 PIGM 400) for all skin types, and it’s best to ask the saleswomen to know which version suits you best.

As for me, I got the P50 PIGM 400 version, because the saleswoman noticed I still had dark spots and she didn’t want to give me a lower dosage – as it wouldn’t have had any impact on my skin otherwise. The name P50 refers to the spectacular results seen after 50 days of use.

Ingredients

• Niacinamide : 3rd ingredient after water and glycerin (hydration), niacinamide is a water-soluble B3 vitamin, ultra-hydrating. It improves the skin’s barrier function by stimulating lipid synthesis, limiting water loss and fighting dryness. It stimulates collagen production (reduces wrinkles), has an anti-inflammatory effect (against acne), and reduces and regulates melanin production (great for dark spots)
• A mix of AHA, BHA and PHA : Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids, Australian Finger Lime Extract, Beta-Hydroxy-Acids, Poly-Hydroxy Acid, Phytic Acid, Levulinic Acid – meant to rid the skin of deep impurities and dead cells
• and other ingredients I don’t understand the purpose of 🙂 (I’m not a pro at reading ingredient lists, sorry)

Usage

So, this exfoliant must be used with a cotton pad. I know some YouTubers apply it like a serum all over the face, NOOOO ! When you apply the product with a cotton pad, it’s done more evenly. Whereas if you just smear it on your face, the first surface (usually the cheeks) will get more product, and may react much more.

More info on application here

During the first week, it’s recommended to use morning and evening, with a damp cotton pad. After that, you can use it with a dry cotton pad.

Usage tips: The first week, soak P50 PIGM 400 Lotion on cotton pads dampened with water and apply to the face, neck, and décolleté without rubbing, using light tapping motions. On subsequent days, soak P50 PIGM 400 Lotion on dry cotton pads.

But with my sensitive skin and my tendency to purge at the slightest drop of AHA, I decide to take it slow, using only in the evening, every 3 days with a damp cotton pad. I leave it for 30 seconds, then rinse with thermal water.

The smell is much less “vinegary” than I expected, and the tingling sensation is minimal, but that might be due to my very cautious use.
I had fewer reactions than with Pixi’s Glow Tonic

Note: When using a chemical exfoliant like this, sunscreen is non-negotiable!

P/s: the brand recommends daily use even for their most potent exfoliant, but I follow the advice of Dr. Shereene Idriss who recommends using it only 2-3 times a week.

Results

Despite very reasonable and spaced-out use, I had a mini purge from the first few days. But nothing too serious, just a few tiny whiteheads, easy to get rid of, and leaving no marks.

However, the areas of skin that don’t purge are truly smooth, glowing, and the pores seem clean and tightened – as early as the next day.

The esthetician also gave me two samples of the “Masque Vivant” from the same brand to put on the blemishes overnight (it smells really bad) to clear them up faster. Honestly, I find this Masque Vivant less effective than my Mario Badescu drying lotion.

Before/After

Here’s the before/after photo (2 weeks of use – i.e., only 5 times). In the “before” photo, it was a week after the treatment Hydrafacial, I was already very happy with the state of my skin.

To find out points of sale, check: https://www.biologique-recherche.com/en-us/retail/storelist/

Heads up, I no longer include the address of the Ambassade de la Beauté in Paris (the brand’s official boutique) because it’s very poorly rated on Google Maps, with reviews saying even the saleswomen give random advice and customers leave with overpriced, unsuitable products.

For the record, my 150ml bottle cost me $95 CAD in Montreal.