From Paris to Papeete: a 27-hour door-to-door journey

I’m detailing this trip because it might be of interest to those making the same journey for a move, and also to preserve the memories of this epic trip. FYI, JB has been transferred to Tahiti, and we’ll be staying there for 9 months. Our move to Papeete took several days because JB insists on being in Paris two days before departure to handle any unexpected issues.

Since everything is expensive on this island at the end of the world and product choices are limited, we decided to bring as much as possible from France. So, we decided to bring JB’s computer monitor, our Cookeo, and our rice cooker, even if it means selling or giving them away when we leave Tahiti. We left with:

• 4 large suitcases (23kg each)
• 1 computer monitor (in its original cardboard packaging)
• 1 carry-on suitcase
• and 2 backpacks

I think in total we’re around 120kg. That’s huge for us, who were used to traveling light. At the start of our digital nomad life, we had about 40 kilos between us, all inclusive.

We’re still much lighter than those who charter a container to move!

Since we’re renters, we had to empty our Lille apartment. Even though it was furnished and we didn’t have to get rid of a fridge, sofa, bed, etc., it took us two months; and until the last moment, there were things to clean and throw away. The final inspection was on the day of departure to Paris, so the timing was a bit stressful, but we had planned for some leeway. We manage to fit all our luggage into an Uber XL heading to Lille Flandres station, and we even have enough time at the station to grab lunch and do some last-minute shopping (some saucisson for JB’s colleagues in Tahiti). We take an Ouigo train that stops right at CDG airport (convenient). JB booked us two nights at the Mercure Convention (Booking link) right next to the CDGVal, the airport tram.

Nice surprise: at the CDGVal stop, we can get luggage carts and wheel them all the way to the hotel room (a 10-minute walk)! It was much easier than expected; the only somewhat sporty moment was just before and just after the CDGVal. Since carts aren’t allowed inside the train, we had to leave the cart, manage our luggage with our four arms, and then grab another cart once the ride was over.

JB hoped we could check in our luggage the day before departure (which Air France offers for long-haul flights), but we learned that wasn’t possible. The previous-day baggage drop-off is available between 4pm and 7pm, but if you have a stopover in the USA, you can only do it 24 hours before departure (in our case, the flight leaves at 7:30pm, but the office closes at 7pm). It would have been possible within 30 minutes.

Since I’m Accor Gold, we can request a free late checkout until 4pm, which suits us well because we try to rest and sleep as much as possible before departure. At 4pm, we load all our stuff onto two carts, take the CDGVal, and there’s still a 20-meter stretch where you have to carry everything yourself without a cart, but we manage without too much difficulty.

Our flight takes off at 7:30pm, so we have plenty of time to check in our luggage. We get the two most fragile suitcases wrapped in protective film (count on at least €16 per bag) because their zippers might give way during transport. We’re a bit worried because with Air France, baggage drop-off is now done with automatic machines, and several of our suitcases exceed the weight limit by between 500g and 1.5kg. Fortunately, since we have a somewhat bulky box, our luggage is handled by a human and the check-in goes smoothly. There are indeed two bags that are really over (1.4kg), but the human has a heart and turns a blind eye (not without commenting) whereas the machines would have charged us at least €60 per bag for the unfortunate extra kilo. With Air France, the rules are strict: one checked bag = 23kg maximum. If you have two bags, you’re not entitled to a total of 46kg, but rather two independent bags with a 23kg max each. The gentleman is so kind that when he sees my small carry-on, he offers to check it in free of charge. So we end up with 6 checked bags, oops

As for additional checked bags, the fee increases with the number of extra bags you take. So the first extra bag = €90, but the second extra bag = €200. We allowed ourselves this extravagance because JB’s monitor is very comfortable for work and he had a relocation allowance to cover the expense. Without that, we would have done things differently.

Speaking of the monitor, just a little extra stress. JB had done his research and confirmed that it was possible to check a box and that the dimensions were okay. But the airport staff raised an eyebrow and started talking about oversized baggage. Eventually, it passed, and since it was in its original packaging, no extra protection was needed.

Since the flight is very long and full, we decide not to sit next to each other; we’re on the same row but separated by the aisle. That gives us a bit more legroom and means we don’t have to disturb our neighbors every time we get up.

And off we go for an 11h35 flight to Los Angeles. It’s a technical stop to drop off passengers, pick up others, change cabin crew, and refuel. It’s the same plane that continues to Tahiti, so baggage stays in the hold. However, even for a 2-hour technical stop like this one, the USA considers it an entry into the territory. So you need to have a visa application (automatic with ESTA for Europeans), get off with your carry-on bags, and go through immigration and security checks. It’s a bit hectic and can be stressful, especially with fatigue. The process took us 45 minutes. Leaving time to go to the restroom, do a bit of shopping, and stretch our legs.

Then we have a 7h46 flight to Papeete. To our immense dismay, most passengers from the first flight continue on the second one (75% according to a flight attendant JB chatted with), so there are very few empty seats. We can’t find an empty row to move to and sit together, but it’s not too bad; I spend a large part of the flight sleeping.

The food served by Air France is getting worse and smaller in quantity; I ate to survive but didn’t enjoy anything. JB appreciated that champagne and digestifs were offered, even to economy passengers. On the Los Angeles – Tahiti leg, the cabin crew is Polynesian, in traditional attire, getting us in the mood.

One positive point is having free wifi on both flights (with good speed thanks to Starlink, no problem streaming. JB could even have worked if he’d wanted to (he didn’t). I can also connect my AirPods to the in-flight screen, which lets me have noise cancellation while watching the complete fifth season of HPI.

Arriving in Papeete, we realize everyone is coming with 2-3 big suitcases each, so our 6 suitcases + 2 backpacks don’t shock anyone. We find trolleys without any problem. As we’re leaving, a lady asks if we have any food with us. Being honest folks, we say yes. I tell her about my beef jerky bought in LA and the saucisson bought before we left Lille. She asks to inspect them. While the beef jerky passes in 5 seconds, the saucisson takes much longer; luckily there was a tiny inscription saying ‘pork origin France’, otherwise my 75€ worth of saucisson would have ended up in the trash. They explain that for pork, it must be of French origin. Another passenger’s saucisson labeled ‘pork origin EU’ goes in the trash. Fortunately, we decided not to bring cheese, because it was bought at the counter without labels, and that would have been trash. Even with labels, the lady says it depends on the production date and the type of cheese (forget raw milk cheese). Next to us, others are dropping off fresh fruits which will also be thrown away.

We withdraw cash from the ATM (20,000 Pacific francs = about 180€) to pay for taxis and groceries. We find a van without problems, which can take our 6 suitcases and drops us off at our Airbnb for 2,800 Pacific francs (cash only). Of course, since we arrive very early (5 AM), JB made sure to book the Airbnb from the previous night so we can get in immediately. Waiting until 2 PM after such a long journey would have been cruel.

Beware of the time difference (12 hours), you might lose track of what day you’re arriving and at what time; in this direction, you’re ‘going back in time’, so it’s crucial to check the time and day on your flight confirmation. In our case, we left Friday at 7:30 PM (Paris time) to arrive Saturday at 5 AM (Tahiti time). If you include the travel from the hotel & Airbnb, that’s a door-to-door journey of 27 hours.

We’re super happy and relieved to arrive with all our luggage & saucissons intact. After taking a quick tour of the city center and the local market in Papeete, I was relieved to see I’d done well to bring so much stuff. Everything is expensive, not that pretty, and after only 2 hours outside, I’ve already put my dress in the ‘dirty laundry’ basket due to sweating 😀