Two days in Amiens (France): following in the footsteps of Marcel Proust

Isn’t it funny? John Ruskin writes a book about Amiens Cathedral called “The Bible of Amiens.” Proust follows in his footsteps and finds the same beggars Ruskin pointed out, arriving from the south side just like Ruskin did. And here I am, following Proust… I’ve trailed him to Illiers-Combray, Cabourg… and now I’m back in Amiens.

Part 1: Travel Journal
Part 2: Practical Tips

Part 1: Travel Journal

Amiens isn’t unfamiliar to me; I went there once during our tour of France, and returned a second time for a few weeks in winter when we stayed in an Airbnb a bit far from the center. This time, I’m back with my friend M., with whom I’ve visited two other Gothic cathedrals in Rouen and Chartres. From Gare du Nord, the train takes only about an hour to get us to Amiens. The beggars are no longer near the cathedral as Ruskin indicated; they’re right across from the train station. And we always arrive from the south side, where the cathedral reveals itself to us. It’s always breathtaking, whether it’s the first time or the umpteenth time.

Unfortunately, I don’t have much to say about this cathedral because I haven’t yet had the courage to read “The Bible of Amiens,” nor the long introduction by Proust (since he translated Ruskin’s book despite not knowing English at all). But compared to Chartres, Amiens Cathedral has far more sculptures, is more ornate… but most of its stained glass was destroyed, so Chartres’ stained glass remains the most impressive. I’ll just dump all the photos I took of the cathedral and let you enjoy its beauty.

The square in front of the cathedral is small and not overrun with restaurants. We have lunch at a small bistro, and I take the opportunity to recharge my energy. I’ve lost a lot of it in recent weeks, giving too much to friends and losing it in the gloomy atmosphere of the Paris metro. In fact, I’m almost sick/sniffly, and this changing weather doesn’t help. It’s no longer raining when we arrive in Amiens, but it will rain tonight. And I forgot my umbrella at home.

The energy in Amiens isn’t as strong as in Rouen, but there’s one place where the energy is very strong: inside the cathedral, along the axis of the cross. That’s where you should sit if you want to recharge a bit.

We take advantage of the still-fairly-nice weather to head to the Hortillonnages, 10 minutes from the city center. Honestly, walk there, because you’ll see plenty of lovely colorful houses along the Somme.

I hadn’t yet had the chance to take the Hortillonnages boat during my two previous visits, and we’re lucky to have a boat leaving right away. There are only 8 of us on this boat vs. 12 on the others—lucky us! This area could have turned ugly and industrial without the intervention of an association. Now they grow organic vegetables there or leave plots empty for nature to enjoy. There’s no electricity or running water. Owners go there in camping mode with their own boats, especially in summer. Agriculture is less developed than the Marais Poitevin that JB and I visited.

We return to the hotel (Mercure Amiens (Booking link), almost facing the cathedral, well-located, super clean, and there are plenty of chairs in the lobby to sit and chat). I sleep a bit, because I’m exhausted. It’s Heritage Day weekend, and we can visit the Musée de Picardie for free—a copy of the Louvre, we were told. It’s more like a condensed version of the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, and natural history museum. It’s very nice, but I wouldn’t have visited if it weren’t free, let’s say. It’s not the kind of museum that interests me.

In the evening, we brave the rain to eat at a small Moroccan restaurant (Le Marrakech) where we’re served absolutely delicious couscous.

M. has a small umbrella, and we end up half-soaked at the hotel. I realize how stupid I was not to ask the hotel if they had umbrellas to lend. Of course they do, and big ones at that! Which allows us to go in front of the cathedral at 9:45 PM and catch the last “Sound and Light” show of the season.

Well, M. attended the first sound and light show in Amiens, the first in France, and tells me this year’s isn’t very good. Luckily, we end with a colorful projection on all the sculptures at the base of the cathedral, and we can get close to appreciate them for long moments. Despite the rain.

Day 2

The next day, we wake up at 9 AM (far too early for someone as exhausted as me) to visit Jules Verne’s House (€10 entry). I don’t know if it’s a coincidence or if Jules Verne is in every city in France, but I see him everywhere. Even at the Villa du Temps retrouvé, which is supposed to be dedicated to Proust in Cabourg. I wonder if I’m following Proust’s or Jules Verne’s footsteps, haha. He lived in Amiens for a long time because his wife was from Amiens, and his house is super super nice. That veranda—I’d love to have that at home! The kitchen isn’t really to my taste, too dark, but the study, the “princess” tower, I love it!!! It’s a nudge for me to finally finish “Journey to the Center of the Earth,” a beautiful Hetzel edition with gilded edges that I bought, one of the first novels in the “Extraordinary Voyages” series.

With that, we check out and dine at La Brasserie Jules, a restaurant right near the station that I love because they have Gillardeau oysters, which I really like. In this case, Gillardeau oysters number 2. They’re so huge that we subsequently struggle to finish our creamy mussels. A few minutes later, we’re on the train back to Paris, and I take the opportunity to sleep a bit more.

Honestly, I love this city, well… the city center. Everything is within walking distance and there are enough restaurants and shops to keep you entertained. From the cathedral, walk along the Somme, it’s beautiful! The Hortillonnages are absolutely stunning! I’m going to read “La Bible d’Amiens” and I’ll come back to better appreciate the cathedral. Anyway, it’s so close to Paris that you can do a day trip if you want.

Part 2: Practical Tips

• Hôtel Mercure Amiens Cathédrale 100 euros for a room with twin beds, no breakfast. The location is ideal, I highly recommend it (Booking link)
• The Hortillonnages: 10 euros/person for the boat
• Le Marrakech: about 18 euros/person
• Bistro near the cathedral: expect 15-16 euros/person
• Brasserie Jules: lunch menu 25 euros, à la carte, expect 30-40 euros/person
• Train Gare du Nord – Amiens round trip: 45 euros/person
• Maison de Jules Verne: 10 euros
• Musée de Picardie: 9 euros