Buying a fan in Kyoto (Japan)

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My latest obsession is the Japanese fan. Luckily for my wallet, they’re not very expensive. I bought my fan at a specialty shop in Tokyo and I was really happy with it. But I told myself I couldn’t settle for just one fan. Last time, I lost my only Japanese fan during a heatwave in Istanbul and suffered every time it got hot; I need at least a backup fan ! I tagged a ton of fan shops in Kyoto and visited them one after another.

In Kyoto, it’s easy to get lost because fan shops are surrounded by lots of other souvenir shops and tea houses. You’ve got to stay focused!

I’ve already explained that there are several types of fans. You’ll find Edo fans but also Kyoto fans. Edo fans are folding fans with few ribs, while Kyoto fans are folding but with more ribs. Kyoto fans are my favorites because more ribs means more craftsmanship!!

For a fan to be called a “Kyoto fan,” the name is only given to products made in Japan, including the bamboo, the paper, and the finishing. The brand and names “Kyoto Sensu” and “Kyoto Uchiwa” can only be displayed on products made locally, mainly in Kyoto, and can only be used by members of the Kyoto Trade and Industry Cooperative Association.

Just because a fan is sold in Kyoto doesn’t mean it’s necessarily a “kyoto sensu.” So pull out your Google Translate and ask if the fan really comes from Kyoto. Also, don’t be tempted right away by the prettiest ones because the most beautiful are more decorative or reserved for tea ceremonies!! Not for cooling down in summer. So be careful! Ask questions if in doubt.

I also recommend buying your fan at a real specialty shop, not at a souvenir shop where everything is mixed together. Souvenir shops sell fans of varying quality and, above all… at higher prices!

Kyo-sensu are made by an association of artisans, so I find that the cheapest fans all have the same designs. And at the same prices! It’s when you go upscale that the designs start to differ a bit, so buy wherever you want, but at a specialty shop!

I went to Hakuchikudo, Onishi Kyosendo, Onishi Tsune Shoten , and Yamani. They all have 200-300 years of history. I really like Onishi Kyosendo because there’s an artisan on site to make custom fans, and Onishi Tsune Shoten because it has a more family-friendly vibe.

At Onishi Kyosendo, you can give instructions for the artisan to add phrases to the fan or engrave your name, or you can create your own design and it will be turned into a fan. I don’t know how much it costs or how long it takes, but I know it’s a popular and common service because Japanese people also give fans as gifts on special occasions, so adding a congratulatory message for personalization seems quite common.

There are plenty of other shops; the full list of shops that are part of the Kyoto cooperative association is here: https://sensu-uchiwa.or.jp/w/shops/ You’re sure to find quality by following this list, but again, ask the question because some also sell fans made in Japan but with bamboo that was manufactured in China.

Expect to pay 2200 yen for a nice fan but not necessarily a kyo-sensu. 3500 to 4500 yen for a nicer design and kyo-sensu. And over 5000 yen for a really beautiful fan. And 9000 yen++ for fans that make you go “wow.”

I’ll show you my first fan. It cost 2500 yen, no more, no less, because it has about thirty bamboo ribs. It has a gold trim, and when you close the fan, there’s a nice sound, it smells good, and the end is slightly curved, not straight like Chinese fans. However, it’s not a kyo-sensu because the bamboo comes from China and it’s not handmade in Kyoto.

My second fan is a mini size, less than 20cm so it can fit in my mini bags.

This one has fewer ribs. However, the outer ribs are lacquered. The design is very simple, but I find it pretty. It smells nice too. I paid 1950 yen for it. The fact that it’s small and has fewer ribs means you get less airflow.

If I wanted a wooden box + a display stand + a fabric case, I would have had to pay even more (at least 1000 yen for each accessory).

There are many other details that can justify the high price of a fan (sometimes they sell for 10,000 yen and you can’t even see the difference from a 2000 yen fan):

• the design on the fan: it might be hand-drawn, or made using the wood block printing method, or two different designs front and back (a normal fan only has one design on the front)
• the size of the fan: men’s fans are a tad bigger. Decorative fans can be huge.
• the material: a fabric fan costs more than a paper fan (washi paper). Fans gilded with gold leaf are often decorative.
• the bamboo finish: lacquered ribs cost more. There are sometimes very cool, very intricate patterns, which also take longer to make.
• the wood used: if it’s a wood that naturally smells good, it’s bound to be more expensive than bamboo (bamboo smells good because it’s been soaked in a scented solution)
• fans with more ribs take longer to make, so they cost more and they also ventilate better. However, there is less paper/fabric.
• the accessories: adding a pompom, a wooden box, or a fabric pouch can drive up the price.
• whether the fan ribs have been painted with lacquer. If so, the fan will be more durable.

Next, I admit that we non-specialists will have a hard time understanding why such a simple fan costs over 6,000 yen and not 2,500 yen.

In fact, the patterns are hand-painted. And to understand why, you need to ask the saleswoman.

Look at the fans and inspect the bamboo, touch them, open and close the fan to see if it’s comfortable in your hands. Look at the front and back. You can touch all the fans without fear. When you buy, the saleswomen will bring out a brand new fan and inspect it with you. The ones on display are just samples, meant to be touched, don’t worry!

Let me share a video that explains how these fans are made:

Photo source: Yamani

Next, if you’re tempted by uchiwa, know that in Kyoto, I only saw “block” shaped ones like the second fan, whereas it’s the first style that appeals to me more and seems more technically challenging. If you like the first style like I do, then it’s better to buy them in Tokyo or Marugame.