Shopping in Tokyo (Japan): Ozu Washi, Fans, and Tsukiji Market

We still have one day in Tokyo before leaving for Kansai. Since JB has been driving non-stop for about ten days, I do my little visits alone in the morning and we meet up later at Tsukiji Outer Market.

Part 1: Travel Journal
Part 2: Practical Tips

Part 1: Travel Journal

Ozu Washi

I’ve always been very interested in Japanese papers, and despite my small washi workshop a few days ago, I still visit the Ozu Washi, in operation since 1653. This shop, specializing in washi (Japanese paper), now functions as a cultural center dedicated to washi, offering exhibitions and workshops on calligraphy and ink painting. Used for its exceptional durability and translucency, washi also finds modern applications like athletic socks, antibacterial packaging, and adhesive tapes for construction sites, continuing to play an essential role in Japanese culture, both traditional and practical.

The 2nd floor is dedicated to galleries, and the 3rd showcases modern uses of washi. The ground floor is dedicated to workshops and the souvenir shop.

Photography is prohibited, so here’s an authorized photo.

Washi is made from the bark of the kozo. The plants are cut and boiled so the bark can be easily removed. Only the inner part of the bark is kept, pounded, and then mixed with a natural plant-based glue. Each sheet is made by hand, and it’s the artisan who controls the amount used, allowing for sheets of varying thickness.

I invite you to watch this video to understand the making of washi:

This article explains very well why even when machine-made, washi remains superior to Western paper: http://ihcsacafe-en.ihcsa.or.jp/news/ozuwashi/ Let me translate a short excerpt for you:

Unlike the raw material of Western paper, which fragments easily, that used for washi is more resilient. Western paper uses wood, while washi is produced from the fibrous bark of plants such as kozo, mitsumata, gampi, and hemp, reduced to thin strips. The length, strength, and interweaving of these fibers make the raw material difficult to tear, giving washi its remarkable flexibility and robustness.

In Western papermaking, the raw material is layered, making the final paper thick but strong. In contrast, for washi, the fibers are interwoven through a complex process that shakes the raw material in both vertical and horizontal directions. This technique produces a strong, thin, translucent paper without the need for layering, using fewer raw materials and thus being eco-friendly, suited to Japan’s limited resources. This method also stands out in industrial paper production.

Indeed, this technique can produce sheets at 2g/m², and they are used to restore old documents (old documents are pasted onto these ultra-light washi sheets).

The shop sells both handmade and machine-made washi. I picked up some offcuts.
I’ll get handmade washi a bit later in Kyoto.

I opted for washi socks, an antibacterial material. It’s quite surprising because there’s a separation between the toes. Apparently it’s better because it prevents friction between the toes. The feel is a bit unpleasant at first, but you get used to it quickly. Within a few days, I learned to appreciate my washi socks. They are quite expensive originally (5500 yen), but I got a discount (3300 yen). I highly recommend them; several Japanese athletes have ended up choosing this material.

Ibasen

Two streets away is the Ibasen fan shop. During my first trip to Japan, I bought two fans that I really liked; I gave one away and lost the other. Since then, every time it’s hot, I think about that lost fan. No fan pleases me as much as Japanese fans, so this time, I’m determined to buy another one.

Ibasen is known for its ukiyo-e print fans. They even have a museum, but I wasn’t aware of it, so I’ll show you the official photos:

To make ukiyo-e prints, you need several wooden blocks, one block per color.

Of course, the ideal would be to leave with an ukiyo-e fan, but it’s too expensive for me, and it’s so beautiful that it’s more decorative. You can see famous prints; Ibasen has recreated wooden blocks from the originals and makes prints using the traditional technique (wood block printing).

We have:

• fans for men/women
• Edo-style fans (Tokyo style), foldable but with fewer bamboo ribs
• Kyo-style fans (Kyoto style), foldable with more ribs
• decorative and ceremonial fans
• non-folding fans
• ukiyo-e fans
• …

Japanese fans are made with three layers of the washi paper we just saw. They are very sturdy. The two outer ribs are curved, so the fan closes perfectly with a small, very characteristic sound.

The choice can be difficult. I think you need to open and close the fans and see what suits your hand best. Those with many ribs will make more wind but are more expensive. Those made of silk cost more too. Those that are hand-painted, or gilded, or have lacquered ribs. Is there a layer of lacquer on the paper when the fan closes… etc. In short, the price certainly reflects the quality of the fan, but you need to know to appreciate. Don’t hesitate to ask if it’s a fan for real use or for decoration.

Otherwise, stick with the fans in the 2500yen – 3500yen range, that’ll do the trick just fine. Anyway, I find the prices here fairer than those in souvenir shops. If you’re looking for a fan, come to a specialized shop like this one. In Kyoto, there are plenty of them, I’ll take you there.

Here’s a video explaining the making of uchiwa, non-folding fans. I find them more effective (i.e., they produce more breeze) but they’re not very elegant 😀

If you like fan type uchiwa, know that there are two types, look at the bamboo stick at the bottom, you choose the style that suits you. The first one (on the left) is made from a single piece of bamboo, it’s the Edo (Tokyo) style. The second one (on the right) is the Kyoto style and is characterized by a support frame of bamboo at the base of the fan.

And here’s the video on Kyo fans (kyo-sensu). Note, only fans made entirely of materials coming from Kyoto, and made in Kyoto are called “kyo-sensu”. Inserting the bamboo sticks into the paper is delicate. Everything is difficult, even applying glue is hard because you need to put enough but not too much.

Here’s my fan, it’s from Yamani in Kyoto, 2500yen

Tsukiji Market

JB and I meet up at the Fish market. There’s one for B2B (further away) and another one (the one we go to) where tourists come to eat. You have to come early because by 2pm the stalls already close.

I make the mistake of ordering everything at one restaurant (I’m too hungry) while JB would have preferred we moved from one restaurant to another.

I’ve always wanted to try spider crab. One piece is enough for me because it’s huge. I find it good but it’s not lobster either. The oysters are huge but don’t match Gilardeau either. I still love fatty tuna sushi as much as ever. There’s so much fat you’d think it’s beef.

Sea urchins appeal to me a lot, but at restaurants they cost around 10,000yen. JB shows me a stall selling frozen fish. Next to it, there are trays of fresh sea urchins. Mine only costs 1800yen, you have to eat standing up, but it’s too too good and economical! The Japanese love them, they’re the top consumers of sea urchins. Their sea urchins are milder than the ones I’ve tried in Morocco or on Easter Island, less sickening, sweeter.

Same for wagyu beef skewers, minimum 5000 yen for one skewer.

We move away a bit and a butcher stall offers a tray (cooked on site) for only 1500yen. Also wagyu. Well-marbled meat.

At another place, we spot a Japanese knife shop. They’re around 20,000 yen each. The only thing we can afford is a pair of tweezers (1000yen I think). But it’s stainless steel, and it’s super effective 😀 JB and I love these kinds of shops because they often sell other stainless steel items of unmatched quality.

Next, it’s hard to resist strawberry mochi. It’s strawberry season right now, there are several flavors and the sakura one remains my favorite.

JB is very tired and we head back ASAP to the hotel. In the evening, we go out for dinner with our friend F. who is also traveling in Japan. We dine at a restaurant overlooking Tokyo Station. What’s funny about F. is that I see him in several countries, but never in France 😀 our dates don’t match. Only JB has crossed paths with F., completely by chance, in an airport lounge at CDG!!

Part 2: Practical Tips

• Ozu Washi: free museum, but you can sign up for workshops
• Fan: from 1000yen, but go for fans from 2000yen or more, for quality
• Fish market:
  • Bring cash, because the stalls don’t always accept card payments
  • Compare prices before choosing your restaurant
  • Look for hidden stalls in the alleys. Those on the main street are crowded and cost more