America,  Argentina,  TDM,  Travel Journal

Attending a clásico between Racing and San Lorenzo (Buenos Aires)

Back in Buenos Aires after our first trip in 2017 where I managed to attend two matches: one for San Lorenzo and another for River Plate, I’m looking to attend a Boca Juniors match.

From my research, it’s impossible to go it alone: tickets are managed by fan clubs, and 95% of seats are reserved for season ticket holders. Even if you find them on resale sites (at exorbitant prices), it seems you also need a supporter card to get into the stadium.

So there’s no choice: you have to go through an agency that provides the ticket and the supporter card, tampered with in some way I can’t quite fathom. A real business!

After some research, the agency LandingPadBA stands out, offering matches for several Buenos Aires teams.

Unfortunately, demand for Boca Juniors matches is huge, and even though I requested 10 days before the match, there won’t be a spot for me. Staying a month in Buenos Aires, I hope I’ll get another chance!

However, the agency tells me there’s still availability for a match the next day that I hadn’t noticed: Racing vs. San Lorenzo. And it’s a clásico between two Buenos Aires teams, so guaranteed atmosphere!

The prices are steep: 130 USD!

At that price, you get:

  • A dinner at a pizzeria before the match
  • Transport to the stadium in a private minibus
  • An English-speaking guide
  • The ticket for the match
  • It wasn’t planned, but on the way back, I’d be dropped off a two-minute walk from my accommodation. Very appreciated, as it was pouring rain!

We’re told to meet at 6:30 PM at the restaurant, knowing the match starts at 9:15 PM. We’re a group of 9 tourists.

Fun fact: like in many neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, there are power issues. Without air conditioning or a fan, it was horribly hot in the restaurant!

Neither the pizzas nor the empanadas are particularly great, but we’re there for the match.

We arrive at the stadium about 45 minutes before kickoff. The Estadio Presidente Perón is nicknamed El Cilindro—it’s magnificent! This venue, with a capacity of 55,000, has covered stands (even though I noticed it leaked a bit), which is appreciated as it’s pouring rain!

The guide sent us our seats via WhatsApp, and the QR code makes entry easy. The security check was fairly light (but maybe because we’re tourists).

I’m a bit disappointed with our seats: fairly central but right at the top of the stand. Given the price paid, we might have expected a bit better, but it’s a “real” football stadium and the view is still very good.

The stadium is well attended even if not completely full. The violence issues haven’t disappeared, and away supporter travel is still banned.

The atmosphere is truly fantastic, and you shouldn’t be surprised to literally feel the stand vibrate.

I’ve included a few videos to give you a glimpse.

Before kickoff.

After the third goal.

In my article about my two matches seven years ago, I explained that the level of Argentine football is rather low and that the spectacle is mostly in the stands.

In 2024, that’s still the case, and Racing fans will leave delighted with a 4-1 scoreline on the board!

Match summary

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