Maskné – How to Treat Mask-Induced Acne (The Ordinary, Niod, Whamisa, Benton, Antipodes, Uriage)
Many of you have been following my advice for treating adult acne – or hormonal acne, and I thank you for your trust.
Today, I’m going to share tips and a full routine to treat the famous “maskné,” a portmanteau of mask and acne, which we’re seeing more and more in people since masks became mandatory whenever we step outside. Hormonal acne is often the cause of breakouts on the cheeks and jawline. And maskné is too, so people can’t catch a break because they don’t know the real cause.
After a long stretch without hormonal breakouts, I found myself, after driving across France, masked and in the middle of a heatwave, with a horrible acne flare-up. When I arrived in Italy, I had to have my favorite products shipped via UPS and Colissimo to get my face back to human.
I waited quite a while to make sure the maskne didn’t come back before writing this article. Before recommending anything, I test it on myself first.
How to know if I have maskné?
Hormonal acne is detected through the appearance of pimples before and/or during your period and is caused by excess sebum during those times.
Maskné is continuous (basically every time you wear a mask), or you get a flare-up as soon as you wear a mask for a long time.
It can also be an area that’s more sensitive than usual, feeling like you have rosacea, or having thinner skin than usual, when you never had that before.
What causes maskné
While hormonal acne is linked to hormone fluctuations, maskné is caused by an imbalance in the skin microbiome.
The skin is a system that also contains micro-organisms like bacteria or micro-fungi. Inside but also on the surface. There are “bad” and “good bacteria” that coexist happily. The skin microbiome plays a shield role protecting the skin against daily aggressions. Like all ecosystems, if there’s an unfavorable factor that disrupts this ecosystem, harmony is lost.
Wearing a mask creates a more humid environment than usual, promoting the growth of bad bacteria and destroying this harmonious ecosystem. If the mask isn’t clean, then friction with dirty fabric (on the cheeks, for example) also contributes to breakouts. The microbiome is out of balance; you could even talk about a damaged skin barrier.
So, treating maskné by drying out the skin as if you were dealing with excess sebum is counterintuitive.
Additionally, friction from the mask can cause micro-lesions, especially where the mask touches the skin. Many healthcare workers ended up with “burned” skin on the nose and under the eye contour due to this friction.
What’s the solution?
The goal isn’t to wash your face with hand sanitizer but to restore the previous balance of our skin microbiome, rebuild the skin barrier, and minimize friction.
1: Choose the right mask
It’s hard to find the right mask because fabric masks are more breathable but offer little viral protection, while surgical masks trap absolutely all the moisture inside (that’s supposedly their principle). So I recommend:
- for those who wear a fabric mask:
- wear a cotton or silk mask that doesn’t touch the cheeks too much: the 3D shape is better than the AFNOR shape (with pleats)
- change masks regularly: as soon as it’s damp, switch to another one
- for those who absolutely must wear a surgical mask:
- wear a cotton or silk mask underneath your surgical mask
Wash the masks regularly and dry them in the dryer.
I wore a surgical mask for only 2 hours (my fabric masks were in the wash) and that very evening, I noticed two cystic pimples that took days to heal. So, when I had to take a flight (surgical mask mandatory), I learned my lesson by wearing a fabric mask underneath. Despite the 4-hour journey, thanks to my fabric mask absorbing all the moisture and limiting friction, I didn’t get any new pimples.
To buy 3D-shaped fabric masks, I told you in this article several ways to find them. My friend Lien makes so-called “3D” masks with a pocket where you can slip a paper towel or a makeup remover pad. At first, it was to add an extra protective filter, but then I discovered that this pocket was perfect for sliding in a paper towel to absorb excess moisture ahihihi 😉
Warning: For silk masks, don’t believe Instagram or Facebook ads, most sites are dropshipping (i.e., they buy cheap products from China for €1 and resell them to you for €30). Real silk is expensive, and you won’t be able to tell the difference between silk and satin (which looks quite similar in photos). Always read the terms and conditions on these unknown sites. If there’s no VAT/SIRET number or postal address, you know your “Made in France” silk mask is bullshit.
2: Keep your oral hygiene on point
When you talk, you spray micro-droplets (that’s why we all wear masks). Usually, it doesn’t bother you at all, but with masks, you know what? Those droplets stay inside the mask. Yeah! So if your oral hygiene isn’t tip-top, a swarm of bacteria will end up settling on your face. Many will talk about mouthwash sold everywhere in pharmacies, but I’m against it. Our mouths also have an ecosystem of bacteria, and we must preserve the good bacteria at all costs (same goes for our intestines too, antibiotics should always be taken with caution because they destroy part of our gut flora)
The natural solution I found, and it’s recommended by many dentists with heart, is to rinse your mouth with salt water. For better effectiveness, keep the salt water in your mouth for several minutes before spitting. My grandmother did it 30 minutes every night before bed, and until her last day, she didn’t lose a single tooth. Out of laziness, I use Quinton water (more info), ready to use, it’s an isotonic sea water full of minerals, but you can simply mix your table salt with a bit of water and that’s it.
3: Rebalance your skin microbiome
The difficulty is knowing which “bad” bacteria are causing this imbalance. You can’t analyze bacteria under a microscope, but there are products that have proven effective in (1) reducing bad bacteria (2) bringing in good bacteria
(1) reducing bad bacteria: sulfur is well known for this. We don’t know exactly how it works, but it’s a proven ingredient. Another more radical ingredient: salicylic acid, found in Neutrogena’s cleanser. Both ingredients are drying, which is why you’ll need to moisturize a lot afterwards. Between the two, I prefer sulfur, especially the cleanser from Rosette (a Japanese brand) Amazon link (family size), YesStyle link (blue one) with a very soft creamy texture (even though the smell isn’t great, it doesn’t linger on the skin, don’t worry). Sulfur, with its disinfecting action, effectively eliminates p.acnes bacteria, which are responsible for the proliferation of pimples on the skin.
(2) bringing in good bacteria with probiotics: there are plenty of products with fermented ingredients. Fermented ingredients actually contain good bacteria (lactobacilli), very yummy for the skin. Moreover, it’s the new skincare trend, as we all find ourselves with a damaged skin barrier (not only on the face but also hands from slathering hand sanitizer), there are more and more probiotic products available on the market.
- I have a soft spot for the Rich Deep Toner from Whamisa (Amazon link), one of the few Korean organic brands. Even the smell is very “herbalist”. Good bacteria, aloe vera, argan oil, it’s all good! I recently rediscovered it and I don’t understand why I stopped using it (ah, probably because of the price, but a 20ml travel size also exists). For those who don’t know about Korean toner/lotion, you can put it on a cotton pad and swipe it over your face. This one, specifically, can be applied like a serum on the skin (I prefer this). It can be applied using the 7-skin method (another Korean invention): you apply a layer on the skin by patting, then another layer, then another… You can go up to 7 layers, but this one is quite concentrated so 3 layers are enough for extremely hydrated and supple skin.
- Survival 0 from Niod (Niod link, Lookfantastic link (-20% right now), FeelUnique link), a powerful antioxidant that not only protects against pollution, blue light, etc., but also provides a prebiotic complex, protecting the “good bacteria” against aggressions. Since using this product, as I mentioned a few months ago in this article, my maskne has disappeared. NIOD is a high-end brand from DECIEM, the company behind The Ordinary. They’re known for using high-tech ingredients. One pump is enough for the whole face, but it’s so light that I overdo it and use 2 pumps each time. I’m extremely enthusiastic about this product, like most products from Niod, because you can see a real before/after difference. It’s recommended to mix S0 with another active or a moisturizer. Personally, I use it mixed with my moisturizer.
- you can simply make a yogurt mask. Careful, to keep it from dripping, mix yogurt with honey (manuka or thyme) and leave it on for 20 to 30 minutes. Honey is great for the skin, and manuka and thyme honeys are the best in the world for their healing properties. I met a New Zealand farmer during our road trip and she told me she could even heal a (very ugly) wound on a horse with just manuka honey. But then again, thyme honey (Amazon link) is just as good and cheaper.
4: Repair the skin barrier
With ceramides, panthenol, or copper peptides:
- the ceramides are an essential component of the skin barrier, and you can repair it simply by providing what your skin needs. During the first lockdown, the famous Cerave moisturizer, which contains ceramides (and hyaluronic acid, a humectant), went out of stock very quickly. So much so that I couldn’t get my hands on it to test it. Last year, I used a Japanese ceramide serum from Tunemakers, which is unfortunately also out of stock. But jot down this ingredient somewhere!
- you can also trust panthenol (B5) for its repairing power. B5 is available as a serum from The Ordinary (go for the Amino Acids + B5 (The Ordinary link, Sephora link, Feelunique link), more pleasant and hydrating) or from Skinceuticals (Hydrating B5 Gel, SkinCeuticals link, it’s very expensive but its effectiveness is proven). I know La Roche Posay also has a B5 cream, but it terribly clogs pores and causes more breakouts. Be careful! You can also opt for a simple pharmacy cream from Greece, to apply generously in the evening on damaged skin Rona Ross D-Panthenol (Amazon link)
- since I discovered copper peptides, I must admit I love them! Copper peptides can repair damaged collagen. My skin, weakened by maskne, healed poorly, and I had to slather on copper peptides, found in The Ordinary Buffet + Copper Peptides 1% (detailed review, The Ordinary link, Lookfantastic link) and Niod CAIS 2 (detailed review, NIOD link, Lookfantastic link). Egyptian Cream (made with honey, pollen, royal jelly, Sephora link) as a night mask also helped me a lot in repairing my skin.
Through light therapy
It’s not a joke, specific light wavelengths help stimulate collagen production and repair the skin. Careful, you can’t use just any machine because the wavelength used must be correct (otherwise it’s the opposite effect: more fine lines and damaged skin). These machines are based on serious NASA studies on the effect of certain wavelengths on skin and astronaut health. Trust well-known brands like Neutrogena (Amazon link) and Talika (Amazon link, Sephora link). It only takes 7 days to see a real effect.
Bring plenty of gentleness and hydration : damaged skin needs a lot of gentleness and hydration to heal gently because it has become too sensitive. When my skin was damaged, just scratching would make it bleed or crust, which was very alarming. So you can use all the hydrating products I’ve talked about in the other article about adult acne.
- Don’t wash your face twice a day! Once in the evening is enough. Use Uriage thermal water (the best of the best) to freshen up in the morning, and to remove hard water from your face after each cleanse. Once the tap water is off, you can spray Uriage water again (without wiping off the excess) and pat it into the skin so it benefits from the thermal water. This water is isotonic, I quote: “The word ‘isotonic’ means it is in perfect osmosis with the skin and mucous membranes. It respects the integrity of skin cells. As well tolerated as physiological serum, it does not alter the size or volume of cells.” The 300ml format, more economical, is recommended (Amazon link). Currently in Montenegro, I had to scour all the pharmacies in Kotor to find it. Traveling is great, but it can be frustrating sometimes not to find your favorite cosmetics.
- As a moisturizer, I still love the Steam Cream from Benton (Yesstyle link, Amazon link, lookfantastic link, Jolse link) snail mucin cream, with incredible repairing power, but also hydrating. I love it so much. In winter, this cream isn’t hydrating enough, so don’t hesitate to overdo the 7 skin method with the Whamisa lotion just before.
- Hydration also comes from using masks: I really love the mask Aura by Antipodes with manuka honey (very renowned, particularly antibacterial and especially repairing, use it without moderation) (Sephora link, Marionnaud link, Lookfantastic link, Amazon link, FeelUnique link, Antipodes link), it’s very hydrating and soothing, to be rinsed off after 15 minutes.
5: Limit friction
This part is more for caregivers or people who have to wear surgical/N95 masks all day. You can use Egyptian Magic (Sephora link) on friction areas. This cream is very hydrating without clogging pores or causing acne because it contains honey, royal jelly, and pollen. You can also stick hydrocolloid patches on top. Hydrocolloid patches still let the skin breathe and are hydrating, so they’ll work as a protective barrier against mask friction.
Since 2020, my favorite for spot treatment is Etude House AC Clean Up (Amazon link), because maskne pimples usually don’t have pus and are super hard to treat.
For treating spots, I’ll refer you to my adult acne article which listed every ingredient imaginable.
Recommended routine
And finally, here’s the recommended routine. The good news is that there are quite a few products in common with all the routines I’ve recommended so far.
We’re now in winter. I’m not suggesting a sunscreen or makeup remover here because your face will be covered by a mask, and it rains all the time, so there’s no point in slathering on sunscreen or wearing foundation. You can still take inspiration from my other routine for the skin barrier which has proven itself. But this one is better suited for winter.
| MORNING | EVENING |
|---|---|
| Cleansing: Spritz of Uriage thermal water | Rosette sulfur cleanser followed by a Spritz of Uriage thermal water |
| Hydrating toner: Rich Deep Toner from Whamisa (7-skin method recommended) | Mask (2 to 3 times a week): Yogurt & Thyme Honey or Antipodes’ Manuka Honey Aura |
| Antioxidant: Niod’s S0 | Hydrating toner: Whamisa’s Rich Deep Toner (7-skin method recommended) |
| Moisturizing cream: Benton’s Steam Cream | Antioxidant: Niod’s S0 |
| Moisturizing cream: Benton’s Steam Cream | |
| Spot treatment: Etude House AC Clean Up |
I hope you enjoyed this article. I’m closing the acne series with this article dedicated to body acne.
P/s: All the old Beauty & Cosmetics articles are grouped under the Beauty category. Starting in February 2021, I’ll be posting about cosmetics on my new blog, so I no longer mix Travel & Cosmetics on this one.
