Adult Acne: How I got rid of it. Before/After Photos (The Ordinary, Mario Badescu, SkinCeuticals, Uriage, Benton, Drunk Elephant, COSRX, Rosette)

Stumbling upon old photos of myself, I realized my skin has literally transformed. Even during my period, I no longer get hormonal breakouts. I never thought that day would come, and I’m keeping my fingers crossed that it stays this way. If you’re on the brink of despair like I was a few years ago, here are some leads that might possibly help you.

Before, during my teenage years, I had breakouts concentrated on my T-zone. My cheeks were spared. After dealing with it for about ten years, I went to see a dermatologist who wanted to prescribe Roaccutane, which I refused. Instead, I got 3 months of antibiotics – which helped me a lot. However, I still suffered once a month. During my round-the-world trip, I started getting more and more pimples on my cheeks (whereas I didn’t before).

After asking several estheticians from various countries (I was traveling at the same time and went to the best spas in each country), I understood that if it was always the same area, it had to be hormonal – and that there was an excess of sebum in that area, linked to both dehydrated skin and also an overproduction of sebum due to hormones. Not to mention my bad habit of touching my pimples.

So I started a routine 100% Dr. Hauschka which satisfied me in Europe, but as soon as I went to Asia, it flared up again. After a lot of trial and error, I found the routine that works for me, no matter the continent 😀

Note: I’ve included links to trusted sites. Some links are affiliated, so those with ad blockers won’t see them. But I always put the product names next to them. You’re by no means obligated to use my links, buy wherever you want. My products come from all corners of the world because I’m lucky enough to travel a lot and find THE miracle product in each country I visit

Attention, for mask-induced acne, the products are a bit different. This article is for hormonal acne.
For acne caused by barrier masks, read my dedicated article on “maskne” here
For for body acne, read my dedicated article

For cases of very severe acne OR acne after stopping the pill OR childbirth, consult a naturopath and/or a dermatologist. I have no advice to give as I only have acne due to normal hormonal fluctuations.

Sensitive skin is not my specialty, I don’t know much about it, test these products at your own risk.

Sulfur and zinc are my friends

My Spanish teacher in Nicaragua told me, when I asked her about local cosmetics, that a Canadian student had a very bad acne flare-up when coming to Nicaragua. At first, she suffered in silence, then one day, this student expressed her despair at seeing her skin worsen day by day. My teacher took her to buy a sulfur-based soap during a trip to Masaya (there are many volcanoes in Nicaragua and sulfur, coming from volcanic soil, is an easy-to-get ingredient), and that’s how she was cured, and she bought about ten sulfur-based soaps before returning to Canada hehehe

I can confirm that sulfur is a miracle ingredient for acne-prone skin, although it doesn’t smell like roses and dries the skin out a bit (but we’ll talk about hydration later). By drying the skin, it reduces excess sebum (which especially increases before your period); and with its disinfecting action, it effectively eliminates p.acnes bacteria, which are responsible for the proliferation of pimples on the skin.

Another key ingredient against hormonal acne is zinc : As menstruation approaches, hormones fluctuate, sebaceous glands go wild, and sebum production goes into overdrive. zinc, through its sebum-regulating action, rebalances it and prevents the formation of acne.

Here are the products I use and recommend:

• Facial cleansing: the famous facial cleanser from Rosette (a Japanese brand) (Harajuku link (very fast shipping), YesStyle link, Stylevana link), the color blue contains sulfur. I recommend using this cleanser instead of soap because soap is much more drying, whereas this cleanser, when properly dosed, can be used daily.
• For the body: sulfur soap, this is the one my Spanish teacher in Nicaragua recommends. This product is sold in every pharmacy in Latin America, it comes from Mexico. I recommend it for the body only because it’s a bit harsh for the face, unless you have a very severe case of acne. You can find the equivalent in France on Amazon, here. More info on products to treat body acne here
• After cleansing your face, give a spritz of Uriage thermal water (Amazon link). Remove the excess with a cotton pad. This water contains zinc, the little spritz helps perfect the cleansing. Go for the 300ml version which lasts longer and is cheaper per liter. It’s very important to use the brand URIAGE, trust me! A big favorite! It’s super hard for me to find it abroad but I’ve become an expert at spotting Uriage retailers around the world ahahah
  • I know SeroZinc from La Roche Posay also contains zinc and is easier to find, but it’s not effective.
  • I also tried Trio-zinc from Novexpert, it was a flop
  • Tap water is loaded with chlorine. It’s essential to remove the residue from this hard water with a spritz of thermal water (or at least mineral water) after cleansing your face and after showering – using a cotton pad.
  • Once the tap water is removed, you can spritz Uriage water again (without removing the excess) and pat it into the skin to benefit from the thermal water. This water is isotonic, I quote “The word ‘isotonic’ means it is in perfect osmosis with the skin and mucous membranes. It respects the integrity of skin cells. As well tolerated as physiological saline, it does not alter the size or volume of cells.”
• The serum Niacinamide 10% + 1% Zinc from The Ordinary (The Ordinary link, Sephora link): a miracle product for €5.80: it tightens pores, can be used on active breakouts or as prevention. Regulates excess sebum extremely well. I slather it all over my face before my period to avoid any pimples. Visible effectiveness in just a few days. Be careful, always do a patch test before using it on your face every day because some people can’t handle the high concentration of zinc in this serum. At worst, you can always buy the Niacinamide powder from the same brand (The Ordinary link), without the zinc. The texture isn’t great, a bit too sticky, but who cares because it’s super effective.
• Another option at €8 is Geek & Gorgeous B-Bomb, with a less thick texture, and less concentrated zinc (Geek & Gorgeous link) while still being hydrating, detailed review here

Proper facial cleansing

I’ve mentioned it before. Acne-prone skin is not dirty. They have acne because of inappropriate cleansing.

People tend to over-cleanse their skin actually.

If you use a sunscreen but don’t wear makeup, you still need to remove it in the evening. I use the reusable cleansing pads from Face Halo, I’ve used other brands but this one is truly the best and most durable (Lookfantastic link) with a special texture that catches sunscreen and dust (and makeup if you wear any). Just wet the pad with water, then wipe it over your face.

Alternatively, go for a micellar water. I recommend the Simple brand (Amazon link) which is specially formulated for sensitive skin (because I can’t stand BioDerma’s). Don’t overuse micellar waters either. If possible, use them for eye makeup removal, but for the skin, cleansing pads are more than enough.

Note: I do NOT have any other makeup remover products to recommend. If you need something stronger, use whatever you like, test them yourself, I have no opinion on that.

I don’t recommend oil cleansing because my skin absolutely hates it, but if it works for you, great.

After removing makeup and especially after micellar water, you need to finish with a cleanser.

It’s the basis of double cleansing Asian style: (1) makeup removal (2) cleansing

I use the facial cleanser from Rosette (YesStyle link, or Amazon link or Stylevana link) based on sulfur, which I mentioned earlier. There is a “family” size, larger for absolute fans of this cleanser (Amazon link). Be careful, the odor is not great because it contains sulfur, but the scent doesn’t linger on your face, don’t worry.

If your pores are completely clogged, go for this magical cleanser Sanskrit Saponins by Niod (my before/after photos below & detailed review here). Use it every other evening, otherwise it might dry out your skin way too much. Pores go missing from the first uses.

Next, in the morning, you do NOT need a cleanser. I repeat, NO CLEANSER IN THE MORNING!! A spritz of thermal water is enough. Don’t over-cleanse your face.

I think that when the environment is particularly polluted, we don’t clean our face well enough with our hands. So, I use a machine that, thanks to its micro-vibrations, brings out the dirt hidden in pores. But this only applies to highly polluted areas (Asia, Latin America…) where micro-dust can settle in pores, clog them, and turn into pimples. Before, I used Mia 2 by Clarisonic, but when it gave up the ghost, I switched to Foreo Mini 3, much gentler and suitable for acne-prone skin (detailed review here, Amazon link here, Sephora link here).

If you’re in Europe, buy a cleansing device only if you have congested skin with lots of microcysts.

Good hydration

Excess sebum is caused or worsened by dehydrated skin. When the skin is dehydrated, our body tries to hydrate it and compensate by producing sebum (oil). But that’s not what we want => pimples. So, to prevent excess sebum, you absolutely must hydrate the skin, bring water:

• by drinking lots of water
• by using very hydrating products
  • a hydrating serum : I use and really like all serums based onhyaluronic acid OR that help boost hyaluronic acid production. Hyaluronic acid can retain 1000 times its weight in water
    • the best on the market, in my opinion, remains the serum Clarins Anti-Soif (Sephora link, Nocibé link) see my detailed review here. You need to shake the bottle before use. One to two pumps is enough for the whole face. This miracle serum contains organic kalanchoe officinalis extract, a powerful natural hydration activator that boosts the skin’s production of hyaluronic acid. My skin drinks it up instantly. At first, I wasn’t planning to buy it, but after using a 2ml sample, I ran to buy the full size version ahahah. Note, you have to shake it before use and this serum must be used with a moisturizer on top to seal in the hydration. I’ve tried many serums, but this one remains my favorite, I always buy the 50ml version to pay less per ml. The scent, the packaging, the texture, the effectiveness… I love everything! Read my detailed review here.
    • the other organic option would be the Hyaluronic Acid Booster Serum by Novexpert (Nuoobox link, detailed review here) with 4 molecular weights of hyaluronic acid. This serum must be used with a moisturizer on top to seal in the hydration. This serum has an incredible effect on wrinkles too.
    • At DECIEM, I really like MMHC 2 from Niod (detailed review) which contain between 15 molecular weights of hyaluronic acid. These serums must be used with a moisturizer on top to seal in the hydration. These products are truly, truly amazing!
    • The cheapest option would be the Goku-Jyun Hada Labo Hyaluronic Acid Lotion (link Amazon, link Yesstyle, Stylevana link, Jolse link) which contains 3 sizes of hyaluronic acid for better absorption by the skin. Of course, you need to use a moisturizer afterwards, that’s the case for all hyaluronic acids
      • I know others will recommend the Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 from The Ordinary (Sephora link, link The Ordinary), but it sucks doesn’t layer well and isn’t even hydrating. There are other more affordable options like the Hada Labo
    • New! Everyone is talking about the Haruharu Rice Black Rice Hyaluronic Toner (Yesstyle link, Stylevana link), reviews are unanimous: it’s the best hydrating toner right now. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get my hands on it, but looking at the ingredient list I can understand why: there are 6 hydrating ingredients, and 4 antibacterial ingredients, which is top-notch for maskne that is currently wreaking havoc
  • the ingredient everyone is talking about: snail mucin, which hydrates and is perfect for parched skin. The best one, still in my humble opinion hehe, is Benton Steam Cream, a Korean brand, I’ve talked about it before, and you can buy it here (Yesstyle link, Stylevana link, Amazon link, lookfantastic link, Jolse link). I had been dealing with some breakouts on my neck for a long time, and this cream got rid of them very, very quickly. Mind you, in winter, it might not be moisturizing enough. It’s the best moisturizer in the world in my opinion; I’ve tried plenty of other, more expensive, more natural creams, but you can tell when my skin doesn’t have it. I can’t live without it.
  • finally, hydrating masks should be used 2 to 3 times a week at least. Overusing hydrating masks has been a game changer for me in the fight against unsightly breakouts. In case of an uncontrollable breakout, you need to use hydrating masks every day for at least 7 days, that’s the advice my esthetician gave me. I was super skeptical, but she was so right!
    • My all-time favorite mask is Like Butter by My Topicals (link) which is only sold in the US; you’ll have to go through a special mail forwarding service to get it (more info). It’s the MAGIC mask to rescue skin in tatters; you see an immediate improvement: the skin calms down right away and is happy to be hydrated. Plus, all skin types can use it, including very sensitive skin.
    • I also really love the mask Aura by Antipodes with manuka honey (very renowned, particularly antibacterial and especially repairing, use it without moderation) (Sephora link, Marionnaud link, Lookfantastic link, Amazon link, Antipodes link), it’s very hydrating and soothing, to be rinsed off after 15 minutes.
    • If you only have manuka honey or thyme honey at home, mix it with a bit of yogurt (so it doesn’t drip, plus yogurt has probiotics) and slather it on your face, leaving it for 30 minutes. If you’re not afraid of turning your face yellow (for a few hours), add a pinch of turmeric powder, and you’ve got the recipe for the Indian bridal mask. Other honeys are good too, but the best are manuka and thyme.
    • If you have no other option, the ultra-basic rinse-off hydrating mask from Avène (lookfantastic link), sold in all pharmacies, will do the trick too.

Don’t pick at your pimples

With facial cleansing devices, at some point during the cleansing, the pimples will come out on their own and go away on their own. But the stubborn ones still deserve a little attention. For that, I use the following products:

• For pimples with visible pus: Mario Badescu Drying Lotion (Sephora link). It’s only used at night because it leaves a pink stain 🙂 The salicylic acid helps bring impurities to the surface and get rid of them. The sulfur and zinc oxide in this product help dry them out. Before bed, dip a cotton swab into the pink sediment at the bottom of the bottle and dab it directly on the spots. If the spot is open, it will sting a little
• For red, painful spots that don’t have a head:
  • La Roche Posay Duo+. Duo+ also has an anti-stain action on spots; it’s a two-in-one anti-spot treatment (with azelaic acid) that I recommend when acne is still active. Be careful, it dries out the skin, so apply only to the spots.
  • Keracnyl PP & Triacnéal are okay in my opinion too, but they say on the packaging they can be used on the whole face, that’s false; they’re extremely drying, so throw away the packaging and use only on the spots. Plus, Triacnéal contains a pretty strong version of retinoid that can cause peeling. You should avoid the sun like the plague and apply it only at night (tiny amount) and slather on sunscreen in the morning.
  • Etude House AC Clean Up Anti-blemish Lotion (Yesstyle link, Amazon link): new discovery, it’s a bit like the Mario Badescu Drying Lotion (Sephora link) but better because well formulated (salicylic acid, sulfur, zinc, ceramide, centella asiatica, and tea tree oil). It can make a painful spot disappear without bringing it to a head (the spot resolves on its own), it calms redness while repairing the skin barrier. It’s the ideal remedy for hormonal spots. Before bed, dip a cotton swab into the pink sediment at the bottom of the bottle and dab directly on the spots.
  • Some By Mi AHA-BHA-PHA 14 Days Super Miracle Spot All Kill Cream (Yesstyle link, Stylevana link) : new discovery, the gel is transparent, you don’t feel anything when you use it, but the next day, angry spots calm down and disappear within 7 days max
• For open spots:
  • picking at the pus (or blood) with your hands will contaminate the surrounding pores. To empty the spot of its gunk, you need to use an anti-blemish patch. My favorite: COSRX Acne Pimple Master Patch (a Korean brand, Amazon link, Lookfantastic link, YesStyle link, Stylevana link, Jolse link, Olive Young link) and Olive Young patches (Olive Young link).
  • COSRX patches contain hydrocolloid, used in hospitals to treat severe wounds. They have the advantage of staying on the skin all night – and they absorb the last remaining gunk in the pores, allowing spots to heal much faster, protect the area (from our hands that constantly pick at them) and prevent the spread of acne (a popped spot is full of bacteria and can infect surrounding pores). Stick the patches on the spot until it’s healed.
  • If they’re too hard to find for you, buy Compeed blister plasters (Amazon link, they also contain hydrocolloid) and cut them into small pieces. This is an important step in acne treatment! To show you how effective it is, once I injured my heel, there was blood everywhere and a huge piece of skin missing (sniff). I put a Compeed patch on it and completely forgot about it because it acted like a second skin. 4 days later, I removed it and my heel was like new, you’d never know I hurt myself. If these patches can heal – to that extent – a wound, spots are even easy
  • It is very important to only buy the brands mentioned above. I’ve tried about twenty, and these are the most effective. The others prevent you from picking at spots but don’t absorb the last of the gunk. That’s very important! Don’t buy alternatives and then complain it didn’t work 😀
• For all blemishes:
  • Azelaic acid: very effective for all blemishes, by killing p.acnes bacteria and preventing spots from forming. aPAD from Geek & Gorgeous (G&G link), more liquid, contains a derivative of azelaic acid, more pleasant texture. Detailed review here
  • LED machines to kill bacteria (blue light) and soothe redness (red light). Be careful, you can’t use any machine because the wavelength used must be correct (otherwise it’s the opposite effect: more fine lines and damaged skin). You may not believe it, but these machines are based on very serious studies by NASA on the effect of certain wavelengths on the skin and health of astronauts (I read the results of these studies at Kennedy Space Center in Florida and the Space Museum in New York, I assure you, it’s very serious). Green light is said to fade spots, but tests are only conclusive in the lab, not in real life. The blue and red lights are enough. Trust well-known brands like Neutrogena (Amazon link) and Talika (Amazon link, Sephora link). I’ve been using these machines for years, and it shows when I forget to use them. Light therapy sessions cost €150 for 30 minutes at a spa, so buy yourself a machine like this instead.

Note: EPIDUO and CUTACNYL – Benzoyl peroxide is a double-edged sword. I’m in a love/hate relationship with this ingredient. If your doctor prescribes it, here is my detailed review

• For cases of very severe acne OR acne after stopping the pill OR childbirth, consult a naturopath and/or a dermatologist. I have no advice to give as I only have acne due to normal hormonal fluctuations.
• Sensitive skin is not my specialty, I don’t know much about it, test these products at your own risk.

Repair the skin barrier

Any skin that has just come out of an acne breakout is necessarily damaged (there are different levels, ranging from tightness to increased sensitivity, to no symptoms, but you can see it with a skin analysis (by zooming in on the skin), so repairing the skin barrier is essential. I know you all want to get rid of spots, but damaged skin can’t handle anti-spot products right away. Think long term! Healthy skin is priority #1.

• with B5 (panthenol): B5 (panthenol) repairs the skin very effectively. Even if you pick a pimple and turn it into a huge hole, it’s still possible to save your skin with this ingredient.
  • Skinceuticals B5 serum (detailed review here)
  • or one of the dupes like The Ordinary Amino Acids + B5 (The Ordinary link, this version is better and more hydrating than the HA version)
  • or a simple pharmacy cream from Greece, to apply generously at night on damaged skin: Rona Ross D-Panthenol (Amazon link)
  • I know La Roche Posay also offers a B5 product, but it clogs pores (I have nothing against La Roche Posay, but only their Duo+ product pleases me).
• or with copper peptides : which boost the action of copper, already present in our plasma, on the weakened skin barrier. In short, they are very good for healing wounds and “holes” in our skin, by boosting collagen production. For that, I have two options for you:
  • “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% from The Ordinary : a miracle, look at my before/after here after 2 weeks. I don’t understand why everyone is jumping on the “Buffet” version when this one is 10 times better (ahh maybe the price, €28, because peptides are expensive)
  • NIOD CAIS 2 (same company as The Ordinary) contains 2% copper peptides: for a long-term effect. CAIS 2 has incredible effects on texture and rosacea too. It’s extremely concentrated, 4 drops are enough for the whole face. I prefer NIOD CAIS 2 to Buffet Copper because it’s more concentrated and acts faster, but it’s not the same price. My detailed review here
  • Alpha H Vitamin B Serum (Sephora link) : (new!) I absolutely love this serum, it contains copper peptides, panthenol, hyaluronic acid + niacinamide, so instead of slathering on several serums, you just use this one and it’s quicker. It’s pricey but I used it to the very last drop.
  • Heads up, copper peptides aren’t compatible with Vitamin C or acids, you need to use them on days when you’re not using Vitamin C or acids
• If your skin barrier is damaged from wearing masks (creating a constantly humid environment full of bad bacteria), you need to supply the skin with good bacteria, so target products with ingredients fermented, with probiotics:
  • SK-II Essence, a high-end Japanese brand (if you’re in Canada or the US, it’s sold at Sephora). To buy it from France, go through the site YesStyle which sells test sizes, or Stylevana. It’s a game changer for me, even if there’s a purging and adjustment period at the start. It’s a true miracle product, anti-aging, anti-stain, anti-breakout (if your skin likes it, it’s a hit or miss) but caution & patience are the key words. You have to purge a bit before getting beautiful skin, so if you’re looking for a product with long-term results, this is the one. If it’s for short-term results, move on.
  • Niod S0 (Niod link), an antioxidant even more powerful than Vitamin C and packed with good bacteria. I’m too in love just I even wrote a separate article about it
  • The solution cheap is to do yogurt masks, which also contain lots of probiotics 😀
• There’s a Japanese product containing Ceramide, which I really like: TuneMakers Ceramide 200 which really repaired my skin barrier last year, but since Covid, it’s no longer accessible abroad, even on Korean sites

2020 Note: Right now, the trend in Korea is to use centella asiatica (tiger grass) to repair the skin barrier and reduce inflammation. I tell you don’t recommend, acne-prone skin, so very damaged skin, needs B5 or copper peptides, stronger stuff. Centella asiatica is an active that takes way too long to show effects.

I wrote a post about my routine for rebuilding the skin barrier here and skincare adapted to maskne here

Morning routine: Skin barrier	Evening routine: Skin barrier
Uriage Thermal Water	Makeup removal Face Halo pads
Hydrating serum: Buffet + Copper Peptides 1% from The Ordinary OR B5 Serum from Skinceuticals OR Alpha H Vitamin B Serum	AND Face cleansing: Rosette Blue cleanser Uriage Thermal Water
Moisturizing cream with SPF Nuxe Fluide Expert Anti-spot SPF20 for normal skin to use if it’s too greasy for you, with 1 to 2 drops of No-Sun from Esthederm (SPF50) OR Moisturizing cream: Benton Steam Cream AND SPF: NIOD S30	Hydrating mask: Aura by Antipodes
Sunscreen for the eyes: Mineral Eye UV Defense SPF 30	Hydrating serum: or NIOD CAIS 2 AND NIOD MMHC 2 or Buffet + Copper Peptides 1% from The Ordinary AND Niacinamide 10% + 1% Zinc from The Ordinary
	Moisturizing cream: Benton Steam Cream Eye contour: Melchior & Balthazar argan oil roll-on

Suitable products to treat spots

It’s only when acne is stabilized and gone, part skin barrier repaired and healthy, that you can start treating the spots left by your hormonal acne.

Treating spots

With a strong skin barrier, we can treat spots. We start with:

• anti-spot products. And here, you’re spoilt for choice. Here are my best products:
  • Sunscreen : the melanin responsible for hyperpigmentation is synthesized to protect us from UV rays. If we protect our skin ourselves against UV, melanin will be less synthesized => less spots. QED.
  • Tamanu oil (Amazon link, Nuoo Box link, Pacifico Nature link): careful, it should not be used not with other oils, it’s very active so use only it, a few drops are enough for the whole face. Tamanu oil has another name: calophyllum oil, but we want cold-pressed oil from Oceania (New Caledonia/Tahiti), not from India or Madagascar. That’s why you should always opt for tamanu oil, because that’s what it’s called there. It’s anti-inflammatory and antibacterial thanks to Inophyllin A and antioxidant due to its concentration of omega-6, omega-9, and vitamin E. It’s one of the only anti-stain products you can use even with active acne. Since skin needs both water and oil, a mix of aloe vera gel (without alcohol, Nuoobox link) with two drops of tamanu oil will create a yummy emulsion for your skin. You can use it as a night cream.
  • Vitamin C :
    • L-ascorbic acid, between 10% and 20%
      • the serum SkinCeuticals Phloretin C F (link to official site): a killer product that costs an arm and a leg, formulated precisely for acne-prone skin. Contains Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid, 10%). Stains disappear as if by magic. Four drops are enough for the whole face. This serum is best used during the day and boosts the effect of the sunscreen you’ll apply afterward. More info on SkinCeuticals products here. Beware, Vitamin C must be used on tough skin, that no longer has pimples and has a strong skin barrier. Otherwise, expect the opposite effect. I’ve tried several dupes, but none match the elegant texture and effectiveness of this serum.
      • the cheaper but still pricey option is Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum (full size (amazon), full size (sephora)). Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid, 15%) bathes in ferulic acid and 1% vitamin E, like in SkinCeuticals. Studies have shown that this mix helps preserve vitamin C better and reinforces the effects of this star ingredient. The only downside: the texture is too oily, so you can only use it at night, unlike SkinCeuticals
      • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: an ingredient more compatible with acne-prone and sensitive skin. You can find it in the famous InstaNatural Vitamin C Serum Amazon link, which unfortunately I haven’t been able to test, but its low price deserves a try. The ingredient list and reviews are very positive; it also contains ferulic acid (antibacterial) and vitamin E, but also licorice root (anti-stain) and centella asiatica (restorative).
  • Hydroquinone :
    • The FDA bans the use of hydroquinone in over-the-counter cosmetics.
    • You can, however, ask your doctor/dermatologist for a prescription. Beware! on *non-Caucasian* skin, hydroquinone can cause depigmentation, it happened to me. I have a tiny white spot because of this ingredient (like a dead pixel that’s impossible to fix lol, others even have a whitened patch like Michael Jackson). Even on Caucasian skin, you should only use it at night, for 2 months, then stop for 1 month, then resume. And slather on sunscreen. In short, it’s a super effective ingredient but with many negative side effects. If you have matte skin like me, don’t play with fire; azelaic acid combined with retinol will be almost as effective as hydroquinone, without the negative effects.
    • If you’re breastfeeding or pregnant/planning to be, hydroquinone is to be avoided.
    • Arbutin is a derivative of hydroquinone and turns into hydroquinone once applied to the skin. I bought The Ordinary one (link) but didn’t like the texture, so I haven’t used it yet
    • I was so desperate about the leftover stains from my maskne six months ago that I used hydroquinone again. But with a lot of caution this time. Here’s the before/after in just 2 weeks! I took advantage of my quarantine in Thailand (where I’m not allowed to go out or see the sun) to start this treatment. PI is a product I had sent over from the States: Ambi Fade Cream for Oily Skin (link) that costs next to nothing. I’ve already told you how I get American products shipped over here. I’ll say it again:don’t overdo it and stay away from the sun like the plague. Talk to your dermatologist before using it.

• Azelaic Acid is effective against dark spots, while also providing a very light exfoliation and killing p.acnes bacteria. It’s also a very effective ingredient against rosacea. Can be used even when you still have acne.
  • My favorite is Niod Re:Pigment (Niod link, Lookfantastic link), with a very liquid serum-like texture (thanks to the use of an azelaic acid derivative: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate or PAD). Results show up after 3 months, but it’s a multi-tasking product and definitely not stripping. Used with retinol, it’s much more effective. I love it because it’s as liquid as water, which allows me to layer tons of cosmetics on top afterwards. It can be used even when you have acne.
  • The dupe for Niod Re:Pigment at 6 times less expensive, but a tad thicker, is aPAD from Geek & Gorgeous (G&G link), with that liquid texture I love so much. It’s a Hungarian company. It can be used even when you have acne. It has the equivalent of 6% of an azelaic acid derivative: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate or PAD, the perfect concentration! You can read my detailed review on my other blog here
  • I really liked Azelaic Acid Emulsion 10% from Naturium (link to Amazon US), you have to order from the US, it’s an emulsion that also contains niacinamide, so for those who can’t be bothered to layer too many products, it’s a 2-in-1 product.
  • The Ordinary offers a cheaper version of azelaic acid (The Ordinary link), not in a serum, but suspended in a sort of silicone cream. The texture is thus much less pleasant, even though it doesn’t cause breakouts. In short, it doesn’t make you want to use it.
  • You can also ask your doctor/dermatologist for a prescription: Skinoren, with 20% azelaic acid.
• Retinol:
  • too high a concentration can actually cause purging, but retinol, well dosed and well used, can prevent acne from coming back while treating dark spots. My favorite is A-Passioni from Drunk Elephant (full size amazon, mini version on amazon, full size (sephora link), mini version on sephora). Everyone highlights the high concentration of this retinol (1%), but paradoxically it’s the one that caused me no negative effects. Plus, it’s a vegan retinol (just in case). Every time I use it, the next day, I wake up with new skin, softer, more even, it’s superb! I use it only in the evening, every other night and then I generously apply a huge layer of moisturizer (detailed review of this product here, and my comparison on retinoids here). Be careful, retinol is not compatible with a bunch of ingredients, so unless you’re well-versed in actives, don’t use it with just anything and especially not in the morning. If you’re breastfeeding or pregnant/planning to get pregnant, retinol is to be avoided. Anyway, thehyaluronic acid, followed byazelaic acid, followed by retinol, and then a thick layer of moisturizer—that’s the winning combo before hitting the hay.
  • I don’t recommend The Ordinary’s retinols (learn more about each The Ordinary product here). Don’t ask me in the comments why I don’t like them, just read this article please.
• Tranexamic acid : I thought I’d never used this ingredient, but after digging around, I found I’ve used two full serums: HAKU Melano Focus V (Amazon link) which gave excellent results even on dark spots. It’s the best anti-spot Japanese product, very expensive and hard to buy from abroad. The downside of this ingredient is that it first brings the spots to the surface, then eliminates them. This brings the melanin-laden layers to the surface, to better “eliminate” them later via cell renewal, simply. So at first, you might think the product is making your skin worse, but on the contrary, you need to be patient for 3 months.
  • Three other products I’ve just tried, also from my US order , contain tranexamic acid:
    • SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense Serum (Skinceuticals link), with very good reviews even for melasma (I don’t have melasma). Very well formulated with kojic acid, niacinamide, sulfonic acid: I like it a lot, a little goes a long way for the whole face. The fact that it already contains niacinamide means I don’t have to layer on too many serums. SkinCeuticals never disappoints.
    • Naturium Tranexamic Topical Acid 5% (Amazon US link), very well formulated with kojic acid, niacinamide, and licorice root: I really love the texture of this one. The fact that it already contains niacinamide means I don’t have to layer on too many serums.
    • My Topicals Faded (link): you need to use very little product, otherwise it stings a bit. It’s especially suitable for skin of color because it was formulated specifically for that.
• Kojic Acid (aim for 1-4% concentration), Arbutin (aim for 5% concentration) are also recommended for spots, but I’ve only tested Kojic Acid and I find it works very well in synergy with Tranexamic Acid
• The snail mucin is also very effective, long-term effect but not stripping (see the Benton products I mentioned above), in a “I wake up one day and my spots are gone” kind of way ahaha
• The Niacinamide works too, it can be slow or fast depending on the person. For my girlfriend, it took a month; for me, it took 3 months (see my before/after photos here)
• Licorice root : effective, I confirm, but boy is it slow!
• Turmeric root: that’s what I used when I had wounds all over my face after an accident. As soon as the scab forms, you cut a piece of turmeric root and “dab” it on the scab twice a day until the skin returns to normal. The problem is that your skin will be yellow for days. Luckily, there are more modern solutions, like this turmeric-based mask from Kiehl’s Turmeric & Cranberry Seed Energizing Radiance Masque (Sephora link). The travel size exists, but it’s not easy to find. With this mask, no risk of ending up with a yellow face. But it takes longer to be effective. You need to regularly spray thermal water on the mask during application to prevent the skin from drying out.
• sunscreen. After years of fighting acne, I’ve learned that it’s better to use a moisturizer with SPF than a moisturizer followed by a sunscreen (too many layers for my skin). I’ve noticed: the higher the SPF, the higher the risk of breakouts; I feel fine with an SPF around 20. Also count on a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and yourself (don’t tan or have lunch in full sun). Unfortunately, I don’t have ONE single miracle product to recommend (they all have a small flaw). I can only name the sunscreens that don’t give me breakouts:
  • Esthederm No-Sun (SPF50) (Amazon link, Sephora link): very white, but very protective
  • and Nuxe Fluide Expert Anti-spot SPF20 Great for *normal skin* (Amazon link) <= both moisturizing & sunscreen
    • I use both because Esthederm’s No-Sun regulates sebum but is too white, while Nuxe gives me a velvety complexion (nacre micro-powder), moisturizes the skin, while having an anti-spot effect and makes No-Sun less white, but it is a bit greasy in summer. So in summer I use both to get the best of both: a velvety complexion but also a mattifying effect. In winter, I only use Nuxe’s fluid.
  • Antipodes’ Immortal (Lookfantastic link, Antipodes link, Amazon link) is OK too, organic brand. This moisturizer with SPF 15 doesn’t cause breakouts but is a bit greasy for summer and not protective enough (only SPF 15). For winter, it’s great.
  • Niod’s Survival 20 (Deciem link, Lookfantastic link): no white cast, mattifying, nice skin effect, with antioxidant properties, very light. But it’s not a moisturizer at all, so you must use a moisturizer underneath. I love it! You can see on my morning routine video that my skin looks instantly great after applying this SPF. However, remember to remove your makeup thoroughly in the evening!
    • Avène and La Roche Posay (Anthelios) sunscreens: avoid them, greasy, cause breakouts, white patches, horrible. Asian sunscreens: most have too much alcohol, too drying, too white.
• For the eyes, I use the SkinCeuticals sunscreen which doesn’t migrate and doesn’t make you cry (Skinceuticals link, Lookfantastic link)
• Work LED machines also reduce redness and greatly improve skin appearance. Be careful, you can’t use just any machine because the wavelength used must be correct (otherwise it’s the opposite effect: more fine lines and damaged skin). You might not believe it, but these machines are based on very serious studies by NASA on the effect of certain wavelengths on astronauts’ skin and health. Green light is said to fade spots, but tests are conclusive only in the lab, not in real life. The blue and red lights are sufficient. Trust well-known brands like Neutrogena (Amazon link) and Talika (Amazon link, Sephora link).

Update November 2021: I no longer recommend exfoliating acids because most of you aren’t careful You jump on them, damage your skin barrier even more, and then ask me why. To learn more about acids, maybe this article will help you a bit more?

Makeup

Since I hadn’t found suitable products, I didn’t wear much makeup. But now, I’ve just tested with success a tinted moisturizer that doesn’t cause breakoutsIt’s the Face Cream with Lemon and Cucumber for Oily and Blemished Skin from L’erbolario, an Italian brand I discovered during my travels. It’s mattifying and gives a smooth and even look to the skin.

The cream is not moisturizing, so apply a moisturizer underneath.

Know that if your acne is hormonal in origin, you need to continue regulating excess sebum.
Don’t NOT switch to normal products as soon as you have your first period without a pimple.

Okay, I hope I haven’t overwhelmed you; it’s a lot of info all at once, I know, I know. To recap, here’s the routine I recommend:

Don’t skip any step, please! And respect the recommended order. The routine is designed to work in synergy. If the tables display weirdly, disable your adblock! The “skin barrier” routine is not shown here because I’m short on space, but check these routines here

MORNING ANTI-ACNE ROUTINE

You still have breakouts	You no longer have breakouts and your skin barrier is in top shape
Step 1: Thermal Water Uriage	Step 1: Thermal Water Uriage
Step 2: Hydrating Serum : Clarins Anti-Soif Or Goku-Jyun Hada Labo Hyaluronic Acid Lotion (light version, green color) Or MMHC 2 from Niod	Step 2: Treatment/Antioxidant Serum : SkinCeuticals Phloretin C F all over the face or Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum
Step 3: Treatment Product : Niacinamide 10% + 1% Zinc from The Ordinary on problem areas	Step 3: Hydrating Serum : Clarins Anti-Soif or Goku-Jyun Hada Labo Hyaluronic Acid Lotion or MMHC 2 from Niod
Step 4: Moisturizing cream with SPF : Nuxe Fluide Expert Anti-spot SPF20 for normal skin to use if it’s too greasy for you, with 1 to 2 drops of No-Sun from Esthederm (SPF50)	Step 4: Moisturizing cream with SPF : Nuxe Fluide Expert Anti-spot SPF20 for normal skin to use if it’s too greasy for you, with 1 to 2 drops of No-Sun from Esthederm (SPF50)

Note: notice that I don’t have you use niacinamide or copper peptides with vitamin C at the same time

Here are tips for optimal application:

EVENING ANTI-ACNE ROUTINE

You still have breakouts	You no longer have breakouts and your skin barrier is in top shape
Step 1:  Makeup removal : Face Halo pads OR Simple micellar cleansing water Step 2: AND Face cleansing : Rosette Blue cleanser	Step 1:  Makeup removal : Face Halo pads OR Simple micellar cleansing water Step 2: AND Face cleansing : Rosette Blue cleanser to alternate (every other day) with Niod SS
Step 3: Uriage Thermal Water	Step 3: Uriage Thermal Water
Step 3b: Hydrating Mask (ideally every day): Aura by Antipodes	Step 3b: Hydrating Anti-Dark-Spot Mask (2 to 3 times a week): Aura by Antipodes
Step 4: Hydrating Serum : Clarins Anti-Soif Or Goku-Jyun Hada Labo Hyaluronic Acid Lotion (light version, green color) or MMHC 2 from Niod	Step 4: Hydrating Serum : Clarins Anti-Soif or Goku-Jyun Hada Labo Hyaluronic Acid Lotion or MMHC 2 from Niod
Step 5: Treatment Product : Niacinamide 10% + 1% Zinc from The Ordinary on problem areas Or Geek & Gorgeous aPAD, all over the face	Step 5: Treatment Product : Niacinamide 10% + 1% Zinc from The Ordinary as a preventive measure, on areas prone to breakouts around your period Or Geek & Gorgeous aPAD, all over the face as long as you still have dark spots
Step 6: Moisturizer : Benton Steam Cream If it’s not rich enough in winter: mix it with a drop of argan or tamanu oil	Step 6: Moisturizer : a mix of aloe vera gel AND tamanu oil (just 2 drops)
Step 7: Treat the most problematic pimples: Mario Badescu or Etude House AC Clean Up or La Roche Posay Duo+ or Anti-Blemish Patches
Step 8: LED light on problem areas (every day)	Step 7: LED light on the whole face (2 to 3 times a week)

How to apply the products

To set up these routines

• You need to take it slowly. Introduce 1 to 2 new products at a time (maximum) for 3 weeks (to see if they work for you or not), for example: a product that regulates sebum at the same time as a moisturizing product. Don’t introduce 2 drying products at the same time, it will be counterproductive. Here’s the recommended order:
  • new cleanser & new moisturizer
  • new thermal water & new masks
  • then new treatment serum & new hydrating serum
  • the rest
• For the products I specify that need a patch test, test them behind your ears first before applying to your face
• I don’t guarantee that this routine works for everyone, even though I deliberately highlighted products that suit most people. The idea is still to find your own routine among all the recommended products.
• My recommended products are not organic (that’s not my thing). For a 100% organic routine, you have tons of ideas in the book Secrets d’une peau nette (€9.95 on Amazon, at Fnac, or Momox).
• My knowledge comes from test & learn, hours spent on forums, websites, YouTube, review sites… but also from some of the books below.

• Don’t skip any step, please! And respect the recommended order. The routine is designed to work in synergy.
• Don’t jump to the anti-stain routine if you haven’t repaired your skin barrier
• Don’t use “equivalent” products. The recommended products are already the best in their categories. When your skin gets better, you can be more adventurous and use whatever you want, but in the meantime, give these routines a chance.
• Don’t ask me what the best product is in each category, it’s already indicated in the article. It only depends on the thickness of your wallet. I offer several options each time, depending on your financial capabilities.
• I don’t know you, I won’t know what the best product is for YOUR skin, isn’t it up to you to know?
• If a product gives you reactions, TRASH !

Testimonials

Here are four testimonials for you. Thanks, it means a lot <3

Feedback from a friend:

A fifth testimonial reached me in April 2021. The reader confirms that her breakouts are gone thanks to my routine.
A sixth testimonial reached me in May 2021, stating that the person has “never had such beautiful skin in her life.”
Two more testimonials received in December 2021: Skin completely cleared of adult acne.

To go further

• FAQ about these anti-acne routines & see my current routines (about thirty routines to choose from)
• All my “Beauty” articles on this blog
• All my “Beauty” articles on my 2nd blog mehach.com
• “Skin barrier” routine
• Anti-maskne routine
• YouTube video : morning adult acne routine for those who still have breakouts
• YouTube video: evening adult acne routine for those who still have breakouts

Starting February 2021, I’ll post “Cosmetics” articles only on my new blog Mehach.com, so as not to mix travel with cosmetics. New account Instagram @mehach.beauty

You have to test and find your own routine

Update in February: having had no acne for several years now, I no longer test new products and I’ve moved on to other things. I invite you to read the comments below and all the articles in the category Beauty as well as my blog Mehach. You’ll find all your answers in these long-winded articles, and in the two books I recommend. Take the time to read and understand.

Don’t ask me for personalized routines, I won’t reply. I don’t know you, and I’m not your dermatologist. The idea is that you absorb the knowledge and become autonomous. Test products, throw away those that don’t work. Read the packaging and instructions, learn by yourself! I wish you find your routine.

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