4 Days in Dubai (United Arab Emirates): Splendor, Luxury, and Shopping

We used to have a lot of prejudices about Dubai and were never interested in visiting. It was only after the unforgettable Ramadan experience in Doha (Qatar) a few years ago, not far away, that we thought “skyscrapers growing in the middle of the desert could be fun.” However, it wasn’t at the top of our list at all, wishlist but the opportunity arose:

• Our Thailand-Turkey flight has a layover in Dubai
• Whether we stay 2 hours or 2 weeks, the prices don’t change at all
• The World Expo (Expo 2020) is currently taking place in Dubai, until March 2022, so it’s a now-or-never chance to be part of it.

So we stayed 15 days in November 2021. Since we were working at the same time, we only spent 4 days visiting Dubai and 2 and a half days at the World Expo. I’ll group our visits together so you can get some inspiration from our itinerary.

Part 1: Travel Journal
Part 2: Practical Tips

Part 1: Travel Journal

A Quick Introduction

The history of the United Arab Emirates begins with the trade of natural pearls, a very dangerous but lucrative activity. Unfortunately, when the Chinese and Japanese started figuring out how to cultivate pearls, demand and prices began to drop. However, with the discovery of oil, the tribes witnessed a real economic shift. The Sheikh of Abu Dhabi had the brilliant idea to unite the tribes and found the United Arab Emirates. To this day, the 7 emirates are each governed by their own sheikh. Abu Dhabi, with more territory and more economic means, is the capital.

So, the behaviors of these “nouveau riche” aren’t necessarily understandable to everyone. Imagine going from a desert tribe to the billionaire club in one generation—enough to throw anyone off. However, they know very well that black gold won’t last forever, hence their drive to bet on Dubai to attract tourists from all over the world.

In Dubai, they try to set so many world records that even Guinness had to open an office there.

All the places and the day-by-day program are on the personalized map Dubai & Abu Dhabi, you can access it here.

Day 1: Arriving in Dubai

Dubai is an aviation hub but often serves as a stopover for very long international flights (linking Europe to Oceania or Europe to Asia. Even though planes are more powerful and can carry more fuel, and direct flights are becoming more common, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, and Doha remain somewhat exotic yet not at all inconvenient stopovers for travelers.

However, “stopover” means “arriving at impossible hours.” Often at 2 AM, 3 AM, or very late at night (10 PM, 11 PM). So it’s no surprise that our Phuket-Dubai flight arrived around 3 AM. But here’s the surprise: Dubai is glowing with a thousand lights. From the plane window (left side), I’m amazed to see so much light at such a late hour. I also catch a glimpse of the Burj Khalifa. Unfortunately, the Palm wasn’t that illuminated (or we were too far). Anyway, after that, I don’t need to pay for a helicopter tour 😀

Upon arrival, we weren’t asked for anything: no vaccination certificate, no PCR test, even though we’d taken the trouble to prepare all the documents. We went through immigration in 5 minutes. A surprise gift inside the passport: a SIM card with 1GB to use within 24 hours.

It’s too early to take the metro, so we paid for an Uber (about €25) to our hotel (Leva Hotel and Suites, Mazaya Centre, €114/night, Booking link), where we half-slept on the couch in the lobby until our room was ready at 7 AM.

Day 1 Morning: Dubai Mall

Our hotel is a 10-minute walk from Dubai Mall (where we walk through air-conditioned walkways from the metro station to get there), so that’s what we chose to visit first. It feels strange to start a country’s visit with a shopping mall, but there’s so much to do there that it’s a visit in itself. According to the developer, it’s the largest shopping mall in the world with 1,200+ stores.

Generally, international brands that aren’t well established globally will have three stores: one in London, one in New York, and one in Dubai. I always wondered “why Dubai,” but now I get it. It’s shopping paradise!

Paradise because taxes are only 5%. Plus, as tourists, you can get a tax refund at the airport (more info here). But you really need to compare prices of international brands systematically, because with the exchange rate and any bank fees, it might not be such a great deal.

I expected it to be cold, so I brought a light sweater, but the AC is set to about 25°C, so it’s fine!

Within Dubai Mall, besides the 1,200 stores that’ll keep you busy for days, there are a few spots worth your attention:

• Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo : an aquarium partially visible for free
• Right across from Dubai Aquarium: the largest candy store in the world
• Dubai Dino : a real dinosaur skeleton, surrounded by jewelry shops, in a fake air-conditioned souk
• Dubai Ice Rink an ice rink in the middle of the desert, why not
• The Dubai Mall Waterfalls a very impressive waterfall
• Dubai Fountain sound and light show every evening

Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo

While we could see part of it for free from the mall, the paid ticket lets you do plenty of other things, including walking through a tunnel full of sharks and rays, diving in a cage, or feeding the fish. There are plenty of options. I saw that the tunnel wasn’t that long, so I decided to skip this aquarium; I’ll visit the one at the Atlantis hotel later.

Here’s what it’s like in free mode:

There are huge fish that scare us 🙂 To see more rays, all sizes, head upstairs where they sell tickets, and you’ll find a small aquarium with only rays.

Practical info: ticket from 169AED. You can get discounts by showing your Emirates boarding pass, or by buying combo tickets with other attractions

Right across from the aquarium is the biggest candy store in the world. I’m not into candy, so I didn’t find it extraordinary.

And right next to the tickets, if you’re up for it, you can do a flight simulator of an Airbus. The activity is, of course, paid.

Dubai Dino

It’s surprising to find such a precious skeleton in a mall, but hey, it’s Dubai. What strikes us is the small size of the bones at the end of the tail.

The jewelry stores around are worth a look. It’s more expensive than the gold souk, but some designs are pretty good. This “hope” in gold and pearls really appeals to me.

Dubai Ice Rink

An ice rink in the middle of the desert, why not? Dubai doesn’t surprise us anymore. In the middle of the giant screen, notice a small opening; that’s the food court. Grab a table there for lunch (with a view). The food court isn’t extraordinary, but it’s not too pricey: expect around €10/person. The kebabs are decent.

Practical info: from 93.5AED

The Dubai Mall Waterfalls

I love it; it’s unique and unexpected.

Now, it’s time to step outside.

Dubai Fountain

This is where a free water and light show takes place every evening (from 6 PM currently) lasting 3 to 5 minutes (depends on the songs). And it runs every 30 minutes.

You can cross the bridge to visit the air-conditioned Souq Al Habar (where I bought my pashmina scarves), or have a relaxing lunch on the restaurant terraces overlooking the fountain.

Afternoon Day 1: Burj Khalifa

Via an entrance inside the Dubai Mall, you can access the tallest tower in the world (828m), the famous Burj Khalifa.

We wanted to buy tickets on-site, but they only sold overpriced ones (to go to the 154th floor) when we just wanted to go to the 124th and 125th floors. So I advise you to buy online; it’s simpler, you skip the line, and pay less. There are several rates: generally after sunset, since you can’t see anything anymore, it costs less. Go before sunset.

Practical info: from 149AED. Tickets available online or on-site (better to buy in advance, online). Combo ticket with Dubai Aquarium available

This tower is a technical feat. Built in just 6 years, the tower was inaugurated in 2010 and since then, no tower has managed to beat its record. They plan to create an observatory higher than this in the shape of a spiderweb, but the project is on hold for now.

The shape of the tower was inspired by a desert flower, the Hymenocallis or Spider Lily. Its construction was studied down to the smallest detail. Every material was tested, compared, approved. Because of the unbearable heat in Dubai for most of the year, concrete is only poured in the evening. Some of the water used for the concrete is in the form of ice cubes.

The tower mainly consists of apartments, but there is also a section reserved for offices. You can also stay there, at the Armani Hotel Dubai. There are several swimming pools and gyms inside. The common areas are scented and decorated with works of art. Residents can access a lounge and a bookstore just below the 124th floor (where tourists have access). To give you an idea, the 124th floor of the Burj Khalifa corresponds to the height of the Petronas Towers in Malaysia..

Access to the tower is highly secure. Visitors must be declared in advance and need special authorization to park in the tower’s parking lot. The rent for apartments depends on their location. The higher, the more expensive. The service charges are enormous for owners. I was given an idea of the rental price and I find it very “reasonable” considering the charges owners have to pay and the services offered within the tower.

Despite the height of the tower, there are still stairs up to the 160th floor (and ladders afterwards), and water towers every 30 floors to ensure a good shower for all residents.

The facade is illuminated by strobe lights, turning the tower into a giant screen. During the water and light show at the Dubai Fountain, the tower is lit up and follows the music as well. The facade cleaning is done via a permanently installed system. However, the surface is so large that it takes 3 to 4 months to clean the entire facade.

When Dubai was chosen to host Expo 2020, the Crown Prince of Dubai sat at the top of the tower with a UAE flag in his hand. Fireworks were fired from the tower to celebrate the event, as they do every New Year.

Now I’ll let you admire the view from the Observation Deck (124th and 125th floors).

View from the 124th floor looking up to the 125th floor. Many tourists crowd onto the 124th floor without knowing there’s a staircase to the 125th floor (access is included in the ticket). You get a 360-degree view of all of Dubai.

You can see that skyscrapers are muchless dense in Dubai than in Manhattan. However, when you walk the streets, you don’t get that impression.

The sunset from the tower isn’t all that amazing because you’re not facing the right direction and there’s always a lot of desert dust, so don’t go just for that.

At the souvenir shop, you can buy mini Burj Khalifa replicas if you like.

Evening Day 1: Dubai Fountain

Last activity before heading back to the hotel: the sound and light show at the Dubai Fountain. It’s always crowded, on weekdays and weekends alike. The best spot, if you want to be at water level and you arrive early, is right here:

If you look closely, I can tell you another “best spot”, especially if you arrive late like we did, is on the terrace at Time Out, a trendy food court that exists all over the world. I thought you had to buy something to be there, but I even got scolded for having a drink in my hand (for fear I’d drop it and hurt someone?). So go 10 to 15 minutes early, find a comfy spot right opposite the Burj Khalifa, and you don’t have to buy anything.

The show only lasts 3 to 5 minutes. Here are some photos:

Some people have way too much money and pay for a boat ride. Honestly, given the length of the show, it’s money down the drain (see the boat in the photo). It doesn’t even include drinks!

A few minutes after the show, the Burj Khalifa transformed into a giant screen—it was truly impressive.

Afternoon & Evening Day 3: Desert

We barely have time to grab a quick bite when our travel agency comes to pick us up at the hotel. Two other couples join us for a desert trip. We’re amateurs compared to them: they’re staying at the Sheraton or the W. Note that Dubai’s W has nothing to do with the W in Koh Samui (which we crashed with our friends). The couple staying at the W tells us their hotel is the most beautiful, biggest, most magnificent of their entire lives, and they’ve visited more than 40 countries.

I was about to ask JB why he hadn’t booked the W, before remembering we were no longer in Thailand. Just one night at the W in Dubai could ruin us.

I think Dubai’s consumerist side, always in one-upmanship, is starting to get to me. Faced with so much luxury, I feel truly powerless not being able to access certain too-exclusive places. Here, it’s less easy to crash the beautiful hotels because the entry fee is too high: you really can’t afford to pay for all the overpriced restaurants in luxury hotels just to visit the hotel—something we could easily do in Thailand. Even the gold-flaked coffee at the Burj Al Arab costs €25. I don’t feel rich enough and know full well I’ll never play in the same league, as I now compare myself to multimillionaires and billionaires. Just that thought makes me realize I’d find it hard to live here long. I’d be too frustrated with so many closed doors.

After 45 minutes on the road, and small dunes here and there, we finally reach our destination. It’s Desert-Disneyland! The desert is right by the roadside. We stop for a “pee break,” but in reality, it’s to sell us a quad bike ride, corn, drinks, and more. We pay €5 for a tiny glass of sugarcane juice, while the W couple opts for a quad ride. The poor things haven’t traveled in two years due to Covid, so they’re trying to make the most of every second. By the way, they’ve just learned that their country (Israel) is (re)closing its borders, so another reason to enjoy it to the fullest.

Next, our guide, after deflating the tires, takes us for a “thrill ride” over the big dunes. They call it “dune bashing”.Despite the seatbelt, I keep jumping in my seat and feel like my head will go through the roof of the 4×4. Sometimes we drive at a 30° angle on top of the dune, then suddenly turn left, then right… We have a blast for 5 minutes… before getting completely stuck in the sand…

Another car comes to our rescue but doesn’t manage to pull us out right away. At least 25 minutes of attempts follow, while we climb the dunes on foot and watch the quads go wild nearby. The other cars from other agencies are all up on a distant hill, watching the sunset. Our sunset will be shorter, but having already spent several days in the desert in Morocco,I don’t feel frustrated. The sand is cold under my feet, the wind blows gently, how good does it feel to be in the desert.

What I’ve noticed, doing organized tours with other guests from 5-star hotels (like in Beijing, for example), is that they’re super relaxed… and never complain about the tours, guides, or anything else. They’re in a completely relaxed state, and nothing can upset them. Even being stuck in the sand doesn’t bother them; it’s just how it is, and they enjoy the moment. Whereas with backpackers, the slightest flaw will be analyzed and severely criticized. A matter of maturity, perhaps.

A third car arrives and finally manages to pull ours out. The guide takes us around the dunes for another 5 minutes before offering us the chance to slide down the sand on something like a snowboard.

We leave the dunes and make another brief stop, where the car is immediately looked after by lots of people, to clear the sand, check the tires… and we drive on for a while until we reach a camp in the middle of the desert, where our buffet with a show awaits us. We’d been warned it gets cold in the desert at night, but we completely forgot our jackets. Luckily, the food and drinks warm us up. The meal is really good, with a wide variety of dishes I’d never have thought to order at a restaurant. The little performances are great too.

Several services are included in the price of the excursion:

• A 5-minute camel ride (mostly for photos): if you can skip it, that’s better… poor animals…
• Getting your photo taken with a falcon
• Smoking a shisha
• Getting a henna tattoo
• …

Honestly, whether you’ve been to the desert before or not, it’s a super fun trip. It’s mass tourism, but you have a great time.

For the record, we paid $65 per person, which I think offers good value compared to Dubai’s prices. Don’t forget to tip the guide at the end. Don’t worry about going during the hottest periods; the desert sand is always warm, nothing like the sand at the beach.

Day 4: Dubai Marina & The Palm

From our hotel, we had to make two transfers to reach Dubai Marina, so we took an Uber. 20 minutes. Around 15€.

We start with the world’s largest Ferris wheel: Ain Dubai, which takes us up 250 meters. By comparison, the Ferris wheel that stood in Place de la Concorde in Paris for years was only 70 meters high. London’s is 135 meters. Located on Bluewaters Island, this wheel is accessible by car but also on foot—just follow the beach and cross a pedestrian bridge.

Commissioned for the Dubai World Expo, the wheel has 48 exceptional capsules, the largest and heaviest ever built. We can thank the French company POMA for this feat.

You can book a private capsule or opt for VIP services (drinks, food, etc.). We went for the cheapest ticket and shared the capsule with about fifteen people (130 AED per person).

The full rotation takes about 45 minutes. Despite the slight wind, the capsule is very stable, and you get a beautiful view of Dubai’s beaches and the new tower with a hole in the middle (that’s where they have the world’s highest pool, but it’s only open to residents, sob).

The weather is so gorgeous that you can make out the Burj Al Arab in the distance and get a full view of The Palm, the artificial island made up of luxury homes and hotels…

We stroll around, passing restaurants and bars—the vibe is superb! The pedestrian bridge is beautiful, and many people zip around on e-scooters. The skyline is less impressive here (buildings are shorter than on the Dubai Mall side), but you see plenty of luxury hotels, trendy restaurants, and beach clubs… Even though we never went for a swim in Dubai (we’d just spent 6 months in Thailand), I’m sure you’ll love the beaches because they’re all calm and the water is stunning.

In the evening, every 30 minutes, there’s a little light “show” on the wheel itself. What fun we have in Dubai, “for free” 😀

Afternoon Day 4: The Palm

You can stroll along the beach like this… or take a swim, before heading to The Palm at the end of the day.

Our first stop is the Atlantis Hotel. You can’t hang out inside without being a guest, but you can walk right in front and watch the sunset.

There’s a super famous aqua park right next door. Apparently you can slide through a tube that passes under a huge aquarium.

We only paid for entry to that very aquarium. Lost Chambers. Of course, this aquarium offers plenty of options: snorkeling, diving… but those are too pricey, so we just paid for entry. Along the path, there are a few small tanks, but it’s the main one that impresses me most, with lots of sharks, rays, and big fish. Everything is decorated as if you’re in the lost continent of Atlantis.

The wealthiest guests at the Atlantis Hotel can also book a room with a window overlooking the aquarium. The height of luxury!

We end our stay with the sound and light show in front of Palm Fountain. It’s supposedly the largest fountain in the world, again, but since it’s split in two and you can’t watch both at once, it ends up looking smaller than the one at Dubai Mall.

Info: Getting to the fountain isn’t easy by public transport. The Palm’s metro doesn’t stop there yet (it’s coming), so you first need to go to Nakheel Mall station. Then, from Nakheel Mall, ask the staff; there’s a free shuttle that takes you to The Pointe (near the fountain).

But we went right on UAE National Day, so we got not only the sound and light show but also fireworks.

Evening Day 4: Ski & Augmented Reality Escape Game

We’ve told you about them in two separate articles because we enjoyed these experiences so much. Both take place at the Mall of the Emirates. I also find shopping here more pleasant.

• Ski Dubai (read the article) : not essential but still fun
• Dreamscape (read the article): we loved it so much we did 3 out of the 4 available adventures. After this experience, we understand why the Metaverse is going to work so incredibly well, because the technology is really on point!

There you go, I hope you enjoyed this travel diary. We really liked Dubai. Even though we (especially JB) weren’t sad to move on after 15 days, it’s still a super fun destination for a long weekend or a week-long vacation.There’s something for both kids and adults, and we didn’t even see everything. I get why everyone goes there: for the World Expo, but also for its relaxed vibe: it feels like Covid is far away, even though everyone still wears a mask.

Part 2: Practical Tips

Budget

• Flight: included in our Phuket – Istanbul leg
• We chose a hotel near Dubai Mall and the metro: Leva Hotel and Suites, Mazaya Centre, 114€/night, Booking link to make it easy to get to the World Expo, but there are other cheaper hotels closer to the beach on the Jumeirah side
• Entry: some places offer 20% off if you show your Emirates pass. There are also combo tickets, don’t hesitate to ask
  • Dubai Mall: we didn’t pay anything at all
  • Burj Khalifa At the top (124th and 125th floors): 224AED (prime hours)
  • Ain Dubai (the wheel): 130AED/person
  • The Lost Chambers Aquarium: 115AED/person
  • Dreamscape: AED 78.75 (20% off if you show your Emirates pass)
  • Dubai Frame: 25AED
  • Ski Dubai: 250AED for 2 hours
  • Inside Burj Al Arab: from 249AED/person (drinks and food at an extra cost)
  • Desert tour: about 65€/person, half board
• Food: between 10€ and 15€/person, unless you’re in the Indian/Pakistani area, where you can eat for 5€/person

Transport

You can buy a metro card. Personally, after being squashed like sardines during rush hour, I’d recommend getting the GOLD metro card to access the GOLD carriage which is much less crowded. However, you pay twice as much for your trip: 8AED instead of 4AED. I still think it’s worth it. When the metro is nearby, take the metro.

Then, when it’s a bit far from the metro, or requires multiple transfers, it gets complicated because buses don’t cover Dubai well.

Because taxis and Careem (Dubai’s Uber) are expensive nowadays. For example, between Dubai Mall and The Palm, expect to pay about 15€. We spent around 60€ on various rides.

Other tips

• Prepaid SIM card in Dubai (United Arab Emirates): how much does it cost? Where to buy one?
• Where to buy a real Pashmina scarf in Dubai and how much does it cost?
• Food delivery apps in Dubai (with promo codes)
• Shopping in Dubai: How to get VAT refunded?
• Careem review: Uber’s equivalent in Dubai (United Arab Emirates)

Google Maps plan

All the places and the day-by-day program are on the personalized map Dubai & Abu Dhabi, you can access it here.

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