Back to Rome (Italy): March 2023

I’ve fallen so far behind on the blog that some travel diaries are going to be written in summary form, like this one.

In March 2023, we spent 10 days in Rome. It wasn’t planned at all, but since we were in Malta, and then in Sicily, then to Pompeii, and Naples, we just had to push a little further to get to Rome. All roads lead to Rome, right?

I also have two good excuses to go to this city that has become overpriced again after Covid: (1) I need to see my Italian dentist (2) I need to see my friend Simona.

Simona, whom I’ve talked about at length here, has greatly improved her kobido massage studio. It’s become a 100% feng-shui place (everything was designed by a feng shui specialist) and she’s put her tatami back, it really feels like being in Japan. Simona has always been an excellent masseuse, but I must admit she’s improved year after year, and I always leave her place totally relaxed, and my face looks years younger. For those who will go to Simona one day, look for paper cherry branches, I made them myself!

This time, I only had 10 days, but I was able to see her several times and take the opportunity to visit places I didn’t have time to see last time.

We went together to the Museo delle illusioni, to take some hilarious trompe-l’œil photos. There are plenty of other activities, and I think it’s best to go with friends because you’d get a bit bored on your own.

However, I must mention a strange fact. She had an appointment with a renowned acupuncturist, specialized in single-needle acupuncture (just to show you he’sthe best of the best) and offered me to come along. For weird reasons, my taxi was 2 minutes late, hitting red light after red light. The doctor didn’t answer my calls, even though both doors were opened for me by strangers. I had one last door to open: the one to the office. But I didn’t know where the office was and stood like an idiot in front of the open building. And an idea crossed my mind: he didn’t want me there. So I waited in the garden. An hour later, she came out and told me, “the doctor didn’t want you here, he didn’t want to open the door for you, I couldn’t warn you.” I replied, “yeah, I figured that out on my own.” That doctor must have had some special power, because he was able to send me all the signals to show me I wasn’t welcome.

Keats-Shelley House

Right next to the famous Spanish Steps Piazza di Spagna, there’s a very discreet little building, so discreet that tourists sit in front of it and completely block the entrance. It’s the former home of a very famous English poet.

D., whom I met through this blog, showed me this building when we took a walk in Rome, and I admit that without her tips, I would never have thought of visiting it because I didn’t know this poet. I had no idea of its existence.

But I was very happy to visit the small house because it was full of books (by other English poets).

You could access a “secret” balcony. Tourists going down the stairs had no idea how I could get to that lovely balcony. They must have thought I had rented a pricey Airbnb. I’m always pleased to have these kinds of “insider tips”. At the time of my visit, the tearoom hadn’t reopened yet; I later learned you can now sip tea there.

The balcony seen from the stairs:

I took advantage of being in the city’s most luxurious district to check out the store Hermès, in a vain attempt to buy a scarf launched 3 years ago. Obviously, it was no longer available. But my visit to Loro Piana wasn’t in vain. After hearing for the first time about vicuña wool, I went to touch a 100% vicuña scarf at Loro Piana, much thicker and softer than a cashmere scarf. Personally, the feel doesn’t justify the price, but I know it’s the most expensive fabric in the world. In “In Search of Lost Time”, Volume III, a vicuña coat belonging to a prince was placed on the narrator’s shoulders, in a touching scene with my dear Saint-Loup. I hope to buy a cheaper one in South America (a girl can dream, right?).

I went to see the famous place in the city center where stray cats lived. Looking more closely, I discovered a poster and then a staircase leading to a place where disabled cats were cared for and fed. The normal cats could come and go as they pleased, and food was available in unlimited mode. You could participate by making a donation (or by adopting adoptable cats). A volunteer was there to tell us about the association and the help you could provide.

The Pantheon

With JB, we went back to see the Pantheon. It would have been impressive to go on a rainy day because you would have seen rain falling through the ceiling, but the weather was exceptionally nice. It feels weird to see so many people. When we went in 2020, we were almost alone, but we couldn’t go inside at that time. In 2023, there were too many of us 😀

Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls

Despite our laziness, we took the metro to get to the Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls. It’s one of the 4 must-see basilicas in Rome, and it’s probably our favorite; it’s very spacious, with portraits of all the popes (I didn’t check whether heretical popes were included). We went during Mass, but they still let us in.

Basilica of Saint Mary Major

I passed by it several times (our Airbnb wasn’t far away) but I always arrived too late (after closing hours). It’ll be for next time.

St. Peter’s Basilica

JB absolutely wanted to come back to see St. Peter’s Basilica. We queued for an hour just to get through the security checkpoint and enter the basilica. Despite the incredible number of tourists, the basilica was so huge that we could take our time and explore thoroughly. This time, we didn’t visit the treasury or climb to the top because we didn’t have the energy to queue again, but the interior still impresses us, even though it must have been our 4th or 5th visit.

We wondered if we really wanted to sign up for the mass presided over by the Pope, but while the mass in front of the great Vatican square during Pentecost could appeal to me, a mass inside, crowded, and where I wouldn’t understand a word, didn’t appeal to me at all.

Monument to Victor Emmanuel II

I’m a bit ashamed but we waited a long time to visit the Monument to Victor Emmanuel II. Let’s just say it was because of the many steps to climb. Watching the sunset from this monument was very satisfying. The church next door was less impressive, and the paid staircase (€15) didn’t appeal to us. But the rest (the free parts) was really cool.

JB and I also took advantage of our short stay to find a little spot and make a wish in front of the Trevi Fountain, before trying a Michelin-starred restaurant in Rome.

And finally, I went to see my dentist for a check-up. We retook the X-rays, I saw exactly the same hygienist and the same dentist (well, I asked for that). The good news is that everything is fine, the goal is to keep my teeth for the rest of my life as they are 😀 And I’ll go back from time to time for more check-ups.