America,  Mexico,  TDM,  Travel Journal

Road trip in Mexico #3: Tulum, Playa del Carmen & the Cenotes

In order to enjoy Tulum and the cenotes in the area without wasting too much time in transportation, we decided, exceptionally, to rent a car for 2 days. I’ve told you in more detail about the points to pay attention to when renting in Mexico here (insurance, corruption etc.). We were warned about the ultra touristic side of Tulum, Playa del Carmen and Cancun and the presence of algae so we basically have very little waiting for these destinations.

Note: this article is part of the series of articles for our roadtrip in Mexico. You can access the 1st part here and the 2nd part here

Part 1: Travel Diary Part
2: Practical Tips

Part 1: Travel Diary

Cenotes are produced by a phenomenon of dissolution and collapse of the limestone terrains located above an underground network of caves and rivers. They are found both in picturesque places in the jungle (Celestún, Yucatán) and in cities (Valladolid, Yucatán). In Yucatán, a ring of cenotes is concentrically arranged around the Chicxulub crater; therefore, their formation is attributed to faults and fractures formed during the impact of a meteorite 10 km in diameter, which would also have been one of the causes of the extinction of the non-Avian dinosaurs about 65 million years ago. The cenotes in the Yucatán area are mostly connected by a system of aquatic caves, formed by the widening of this same network of faults and fractures. The sacred aspect of the cenotes among the ancient Mayas was linked to the fact that they were their only reserves of fresh water (there is no fresh water on the surface in the Yucatán Peninsula).

Wikipedia

Day 3 (December 21st): Cenotes near Tulum

Car Rental

We pick up our car at MEX in Tulum. Already, for the franchise, the employee explains to us right away that they do not accept any debit cards (and all our cards are marked DEBIT on them). Smiling at the corner, he plans to offer us the expensive all-inclusive insurance to overcome this problem because he will buy the deductible and no longer need a CREDIT card. Suddenly, he realizes that we have already paid it #facepalm and just asks us for a bank imprint of 100$US. At the moment of the final payment, he explains us that the rate of the agency is 1$US = 21MXN (the real rate is 19MXN great maximum) and that the rates indicated on the site at the time of our reservation are certainly in $US but that we cannot pay in $US but in pesos and obliged to respect this scandalous rate. Add to that the petrol tank filled at 1/4 and you have to return with 1/4 (we didn’t know how to dose it properly and we returned it with 15$US of petrol in addition). If even the car rental company warmly recommended by the other travelers scams us in all directions, it promises for the rest!

Note: The bloggers of the Kalokali blog recommended us instead Enterprise which unfortunately was more expensive than MEX for this period.

Luckily we only rented for 2 days: US$40 for the rental, US$40 for the insurance, US$10 because of the unfavorable exchange rate, US$15 of gas returned in excess = US$105 for 2 days.


I spent a lot of time looking at all the photos of the cenotes in the area and was able to select a few, according to my criteria. This allows me to visit several types of cenotes, and to be there when there are few tourists.

Gran Cenote (between Tulum & Valladolid)

It is 9 am and we are already in front of the cenote super frequented by tourists & tourist buses : Gran Cenote. We went there for its blue color, its small depth and the presence of some turtles. The entrance is expensive (200MXN), the infrastructures are OK (shower outside, locker room, locker (30MXN), life vest rental (30MN)).

There is already a group of Japanese people on the spot, super respectful, with anti-UV suits (well you will tell me that even in Japan, they rarely swim in normal bathing suits). They leave after 30 minutes and we are almost alone on the spot. Other tourists came either by rented car or by bike because the site isn’t so far from downtown Tulum.

At the moment, the peninsula is undergoing a cold wave, the water is cold and there is a small wind. I can’t motivate myself to swim despite this nice color and have to be content to keep the stuff for JB. Luckily JB is already equipped (he has his Decathlon snorkeling mask, super cool) otherwise the snorkeling gear rental would have cost 80MXN (4€ for each cenote, it can quickly add up). Take also an identity card (the French CNI passes very well, no need to leave the passport). As soon as you rent something, you have to leave your ID as a deposit.

There are a few small, rather shy turtles on the spot, and they run away as soon as someone approaches them (do not touch them). The poor turtles, they must be sick now. It is forbidden to put sunscreen or chemicals on them to avoid affecting them and polluting the water of the cenotes – but tourists do not respect these instructions (we have seen this at Ik Kil).

One can pass through a cellar to access a second, even shallower, light blue cenote. The whole is really cute, but only if you go there early in the morning because I can’t imagine a quiet atmosphere at all once 100 tourists invade the place. If you have a small budget, I advise you to zap this cenote completely.

Car Wash (between Tulum & Valladolid)

I went to Car Wash (100MXN) because I followed the advice of an instagrammer (I thought, for once, it’s not a sponsored trip, he must surely advise cooler places). Well I think that after the disappointment at Coba and Car Wash, I’m going to stop following the advices and pictures on Instagram. Here is the video that makes you dream:

And this is what we actually see:

Well, there are extenuating circumstances because snorkeling pictures are incomparable to diving pictures: he is freediving so he was able to access the part near the entrance of the cave. In addition, he must have a better weather maybe (more sun), better gear to capture colors – and a Photoshop license to increase the contrast in the background. In reality, we couldn’t observe these shades of blue, green… worthy of corals in the Philippines. That’s the difference between those who are paid to travel and us – who take honest photos, without retouching and that don’t make anyone want to 😀

That said, this cenote remains one of my favorites. It is deep, the water is very beautiful (the pictures don’t do it justice because we are against the light), there is a platform to make dives, with several caves (that we can explore while diving), but also some small fish. It is called Car Wash because it was actually used to wash cabs… but this activity stopped a long time ago, the water being purified since… and with the presence of water lilies… it’s great!

I also disagree with this instagrammer who considers the water in Quintana Roo to be one of the purest in the world. If you go to Ginnie Springs in Florida, it is spring water (you can see the bubbles coming up from hundreds of small springs), this water is much purer.

Beware, there is a small crocodile living on the spot(the videos are dated 2013, 2015… ) so I don’t know if it is still alive… but the mexicans don’t seem to be afraid of this type of crocodile, which are small and according to them… very shy. They also explain that they don’t eat so much meat and with many fish available, it will rather flee when it sees the human than attack. It isn’t the only cenote in the area to have a crocodile. Casa Cenote, another well known cenote, has a slightly larger crocodile (1 meter) but harmless according to many testimonies. Our guide in Sian Kaan told us that he passed this crocodile at Casa Cenote and instead of panicking, he stayed still and the crocodile passed him without doing anything.

Well, JB’s relatives might misinterpret my program: already, I sent him to climb the half-broken pyramid in Coba, now I take him to swim in a cenote with a crocodile. He doesn’t know it yet, but soon he will drive in torrential rain, see snakes, explore an area full of pumas and jaguars and walk on quicksand in Bacalar ahahha On Insta, seeing JB’s video galloping on the quicksand area, I was sent an MP “it’s to avenge the soccer restaurant that you send him to drown?”in reference to a restaurant broadcasting a soccer match where we were in Merida, and where JB spent 2 hours watching Barcelona – Madrid on a big screen to my immense dismay. If revenge is a dish to be eaten cold, in Mexico, you have a multitude of places to take revenge.

Cenote Zacil-Ha

Since this cenote is right next door, we park in front of it. And only one person, one person only, is allowed to go and see the cenote before deciding whether it is worth the cost of paying or not. Luckily, I checked before paying 100MXN/person because in real life, this cenote just looks like a very big well, not deep at all, whereas… on Instagram the pictures sell too much of the dream. Anyway, don’t go there!

Cenote Suytun

You’ve visited open cenotes, and cenotes in caves, it’s time to visit an almost closed cenote now. I hesitated a lot between Dzitnup (there are 2 of them) and Suytun, but as Dzitnup is too close to the ultra touristic area, I preferred to go to Suytun.

The road is a little monotonous and I take advantage of it to sleep, when finally JB wakes me up thinking “find me a gas station on the GPS, I just realized that the gas alert flashes, I do not know how long ago”. Damn, the car rental company left us 2 bars (out of the 8) but it must be 1.3 bars then… since we’ve been driving since 1h30 only. And we forgot to fill up the tank before leaving. This road is pretty but we don’t get any network at all. Fortunately that with the maps downloaded offline in advance, we can find a station at 20 minutes by car. We are really lucky because on this road, there are really not many.

Arrived on the spot, I see 2 buses of tourists, I am not very happy because the cenote is still small. The guard explains to me that in 30 minutes, all this small world will have already left. We decide to eat on the spot and to opt for the buffet proposed next door. I am still fooled by the change of hour (we passed again in Yucatan) and think that we have only 30 minutes to take advantage of the buffet on the spot whereas we have 1h30 ! Phew. Good, the buffet is very average, and by seeing the other tourists arriving with a bracelet of their tour, we say to ourselves that we would have been too disgusted to pay 100€/person for this kind of tours to finish in a cheap buffet of this kind. On our side, we paid 230MXN for the entrance + the buffet + a drink (that is to say 11,5€, of which 120MXN just for the entrance).

If there is sunshine (which isn’t the case today because of the cloudy sky), the light enters much more strongly through the hole above the cenote between noon and 2pm and creates an incredible light effect. That’s why the tourist buses come before 1pm. Photographers will be able to play with their cameras and create the “alleluia” effect.

Waiting

Even without the sun it’s beautiful! Well, shall I show you the backstage or not? Let’s play the “expectation/reality” game again. The water is very cold (JB wanted to swim but quickly). With the entrance, a life vest (chaleco) is provided for those who bathe. The water can be very deep so it is better not to venture too far (there are no lifeguards here). Most tourists come, like me, to take just one picture (or rather dozens of pictures to find the perfect angle). We queue up to get our picture taken on this unnatural platform in the middle of the cenote. Those who are swimming have fun taking pictures of others, with their flashy vest life ahahaha. This is the reality when the cenote is visited by tourist buses. After the buffet (1:30 pm), we went back there and we were only ten of us, so much more bearable.

Reality

From Valladolid there is a colectivo that goes all the way to here. If you do not have a vehicle, do not hesitate to take it (the departures of the colectivos are indicated in this article)

I told you that I was very disappointed by Coba, and regretted not going to Ek Balam, so we went to visit Ek Balam (so I told you here) and explore his X’canche cenote, one of my favorites as well. The entrance fees are so expensive (and only cash payment is accepted) that we had to empty our wallets, we only have 160MXN mdr (8€) left. I talked about Ek Balam in the other notebook because I find the itinerary more logical, he is closer to Valladolid. By going to Ek Balam with our car from Tulum, we made a half-turn

On the way back, it rains ropes, we can hardly see anything. It becomes very dangerous but it is impossible to stop somewhere, there is only one lane and the space on the right is dedicated to scooters, cyclists, pedestrians, … who are almost invisible under this flood. Stopping on the side is signing his death. You have to follow the “convoy” and the light of the car in front. During this time, the big buses overtake and we sometimes find ourselves with 3 cars on 2 lanes. We were very lucky to get out of it without damage because it started to be dark.

We finally arrive in Tulum, alive. We easily find a place in the street to park. In Tulum, there is no parking with guards as in Merida, you have to park in the street (free, which is very surprising :D). We take everything with us not to tempt the robbers (in Mexico, the rental cars of tourists are all white and have the same model, we are spotted from far). And the luck smiles to us again since the next day, our car remains intact.

Day 4 (December 22): Ruins of Tulum and other cenotes

Yesterday, we explored the road between Valladolid and Tulum to bathe in the cenotes. Today, we will take the road perpendicular to it: between Tulum and Playa del Carmen, to find beaches & cenotes.

But first of all, we must visit the ruins of Tulum which, along with Chichen Itza, are the most popular in the area. They are the only known ruins that overlook the beach.

Ruins of Tulum

We drive quietly to the ruins when we get stopped by someone (with a badge that looks official) in the street, telling us that (1) we can’t get to the ruins by car (2) we have to park here and walk 1km. She immediately shows us the parking without giving the price. It makes too many red lights to be honest, we ask the price, she answers us 200MXN (10€!!). No thanks.

We continue straight ahead and see blue “parking” signs. Well, it looks more official already. Here, the price is half the price: 100MXN. Whereas it is only 20 meters further. We park and must actually walk 1km. Those who do not like walking are offered a shuttle of 20MXN/person.

Arrived at the entrance, small additional trap: they only accept payment in cash (75MXN/person) and do not give change. Amazing for a ruin that receives millions of visitors. Unable to find bills of 20 and coins of 5, really? All these traps get us drunk and we have only one hurry: finish the visit and leave from here.

It’s 9am and there are already a lot of people on the site. We spot the quatis, super cute. Here, contrary to Iguazu, they do not depend on the food of the tourists but spend all their day to find food themselves, in the nature.

The ruins of Tulum do not impress us that much and I find the presence of the palm trees and cactus super fun. I feel teleported to Morocco, and not to Mexico ahahha. The most beautiful part remains the beach, just below. Until a few days ago, this same beach was full of sargasso, the seaweed that abounds in the area and threatens the tourism of the Yucatan peninsula. But we are too lucky, not only the sun came back but the seaweed is gone, it’s heavenly!

The staircase leading to the beach is condemned. To get to the beach, you have to go out of the ruins on the other side and walk about 20 minutes, but we will do it another day. I’m sorry not to tell you more about these ruins, actually, at the end of 4 Mayan ruins, you start to get tired of them. May shame fall upon us.

Akumal

Too happy with the color of the water, we are very excited to go swimming with the turtles at the beach of Akumal. But we drive, we drive… along the ocean and we find NO access to the beach. The sea front is totally privatized by many luxury hotels. We finally find the small road leading to Akumal and we are stopped by someone who announces us :

  • that it is a private area
  • and protected, so you can only swim with the turtles for a maximum of 1 hour
  • the cost is 650MXN/person càd 33€ !
  • if we want to access the beach but without swimming with the tortures, it’s 100MXN/person

We find this treatment totally unfair, since in Mexico the beach is supposed to be public and accessible to everyone, it is the law. I agree that I should be charged for using the infrastructure, but unfortunately this phenomenon is SUPER frequent in Yucatan. OK the beach is accessible to everyone, but to get there you have to cross private land. Ah ah! What do we do in this case? Other travelers told me that they could reach this beach without paying by walking from who-knows-where but the zone with the corals (and thus the tortures) are delimited by a rope and as soon as someone approaches it, the “responsible” of the zone come to yell at them and ask for 650MXN/person.

Range of Xpu-Ha

Disgusted, we leave right away and try to find another place. We end up in Xpu-Ha because I read some comments about turtles seen here. The access costs 50MXN/person but refunded if we present a consumption bill of 200MXN minimum at the restaurant. OK. That’s pretty honest, let’s go. Finally, this beach still has some sargasso (you can’t see them well but when you swim, algae are omnipresent in the water), do you see this kind of brown line in the water? It’s algae. The only positive point is the guacamole and the delicious tacos of the restaurant. That’s it. Unfortunately, we did not see a turtle.

Cenote Azul

The place where we are sure we don’t have sargasso is the cenotes. We go to the cenote Azul (120MXN), with its nice colors. In spite of the rather high entrance, we have to pay 5MXN to change! Too disgusted to be treated like an ATM on legs for several days, JB rests, and does not bathe, leaving me alone in the water. Here, there are stones at the bottom so we can sit, chill. The depth is variable, it can be 30 cm as well as 6 meters. The shallowest part has small fish, the same as the ones you can find in the fish spa. It’s very funny when they come to prick me a piece of dead skin. I can’t get used to it and I’m startled every time; while other tourists manage to stay still and enjoya real natural pedicure😀 Beware, several thefts in the trunks & bags have been reported at this Cenote. Do not leave anything in your car (or in the trunk) and watch your things.

Cenote Xunaan-Ha

Not being able to swim in Akumal, we have too much time to lose and let’s try to find a nice cenote in the area. On this section, several cenotes are grouped in “cenote parks” where you pay a very high entrance fee (400MXN or more) but you have access to 4 or 5 cenotes. The disadvantage is that these cenotes, being nearby, are almost the same type. It’s not very fun to chain 3 cenotes like cellars at the same time or 3 open cenotes with the same blue stones… We could have gone to Dos Ojos but the price (around 70$US) is a bit of a hindrance. Just for one cenote, I don’t feel like it.

So by digging my head, I still manage to find a little known cenote: Xunaan-Ha. Even the road to go there is still little frequented and thus with some potholes.

The entrance costs 100MXN and we are with a Mexican family, 2 tourists, an iguana and a lot of mosquitoes.

From the parking lot, it is necessary to walk 3 minutes in the middle of the forest to reach it.

The atmosphere is quite calm and relaxed. Unfortunately, I can only soak my feet because the water seems too cold, I have to swim all the time. JB is having fun diving from a platform (near the iguana).

After an hour, the rain starts to fall and even the iguana goes to hide from the first drops even though he hadn’t moved a toe for an hour. It’s the same torrential rain as yesterday, so we don’t dare to drive and prefer to wait for it to pass. If it did not rain, we would have had enough time to go to visit the ruins of Muyil…. Too bad! We return the car (without asking us for more money, the bank imprint will finally be unblocked 10 days later) and take a colectivo at the crossing of the Avenue Coba and the 307 to make Tulum – Playa del Carmen (45MXN/person).

Playa del Carmen

We don’t want to go to Playa del Carmen for swimming because its beaches are soiled by algae. Don’t be fooled by the pictures, in fact, it smells very bad!

We mostly go there to take the ferry the next day at 8am to the island of Cozumel opposite and do some snorkeling. Unfortunately, it’s when I’m sitting in the colectivo towards Playa del Carmen that I receive a whatsapp from the agency telling me that the weather conditions aren’t good. They reimburse me the deposit. I wanted to surprise JB and it fell through. Upon learning the surprise I would have liked to do to him, JB thanks me for preparing this and tells me that we will have other opportunities to take advantage of it. Well… it’s still the 2nd largest coral reef in the world, after Australia. Unless we do it in Belize, I don’t know when we will come back to Quintana Roo.

We tried to enjoy Playa del Carmen as much as we could. First with a very correct dinner in one of the few Thai restaurants in Yucatan.

Day 5 (December 23): Playa del Carmen & Beach in Tulum

Then, the next day, our hotel treats us with very correct croissants and pains au chocolat for breakfast (it’s a troooop of good, especially since it’s unexpected): Hotel la Galeria by Bunik 32€ (link Booking). I book a massage for two at Magic Hands and the lady, very nice, put my bones back in place from head to toe for 450MXN. A few window-shopping sessions follow (Playa del Carmen is a small shopping paradise) and here we are again on a bus – direction Tulum. That’s right, because we have an excursion to Sian Ka’an tomorrow. And Sian Ka’an is closer to Tulum than to Playa del Carmen.

Paraiso Beach in Tulum

It is still daylight and we take the opportunity to go to the beach. The cabs ask 150MXN one way for 4km! It is the standard price because in spite of the attempts of negotiation, they do not change their mind. It seems that there is a colectivo going to the hotel zone (and thus to the dream beaches of Tulum) but it is accessible only to the locals, the driver will refuse to take tourists.

This organized hazing, which obligatorily transforms tourists into walking ATMs, is a great disappointment to the thrifty travelers coming to Tulum. Because it is absolutely necessary either to have a means of transportation (scooter rental, bicycle), or to pay 15€ the round trip just to go to the beach. Moreover, the beaches are almost all privatized by the hotels. There are 3-4 free accesses but it’s crowded and without shade: our only choice is the Playa Paraiso. If we have the misfortune to pass too close to the beaches of the 5 stars hotels, we are going to be chased. And if we spend the night in one of these numerous hotels at the edge of the beach, we are swindled otherwise: the meals and drinks will be out of price. By coming to Tulum, the tourist is trapped and is obliged to spend.

On the other hand, the water is beautiful, the sand is fresh and very very fine. There are no algae (alleluia). It is a small paradise (if we ignore the other negative sides). To rent the huge cozy beds overlooking the beach, count 450MXN to 500MXN.

Where to stay in Tulum for a dream vacation?

If you can afford it and can afford that dream vacation, Tulum remains the best option (vs. Playa del Carmen and Cancun). There are a lot of nice hotels, nice restaurants in the hotel area and the water is generally cleaner (the anti-silver nets have been put in, and unlike Playa del Carmen, Tulum has not cut the mangroves, so less erosion and more sand than in Playa del Carmen).

To be almost sure not to have algae in the water, you should choose hotels as far as possible from the city center, and as close as possible to Arco Maya (this is the entrance to the Sian Ka’an reserve). I’ve been following the Sargasso bulletins in Quintana Roo for a few months now, and there has never been a Sargasso alert on that side.

  • Hotel Playa Xnacan Tulum (148€, link Booking)
  • or the Nest Tulum hotel for example (200€, children not accepted, Agoda link) can be safe choices
  • The very instagrammable restaurant Raw Love is a must check-in for Instagram photos.
images

The Azulik hotel(link Booking) is very famous and very expensive (we are talking about thousands of euros for one night), but it is located at the entrance of the hotel area and can be affected by the Sargasso. To take Instagram pictures, without staying there, you have to pay 65€/person.

Our next article: at the Sian Ka’an nature reserve, it’s this way

Part 2: Practical Tips

Scooter/Bike Rental

Here are the rates observed in 2020:

  • Scooter rental: 650MXN for 24h and 500MXN for 1 day
  • Bike rental: 140MXN for 24h and 100MXN for 1 day

How to get there…

  • from Tulum to Playa del Carmen by bus: take a bus at the ADO terminal. ADO has two stops in Tulum: Tulum Ruins (at the entrance of the city) or downtown. The trip takes 1 hour and will cost you 88MXN
  • from Tulum to Playa del Carmen by colectivo: take a colectivo at the junction of the 307 with Coba Avenue or here (closer to downtown, google maps). It will cost you 45MXN
  • from Playa del Carmen to Tulum by bus: take a bus at the ADO Terminal. The trip takes 1 hour and will cost you 88MXN
  • from Playa del Carmen to Tulum in colectivo : they leave from here (google maps). The trip will cost you 45MXN
  • from Tulum to the cenotes : Gran Cenote & Car Wash :
    • take the colectivo towards Coba and ask for the stop. On the other hand, the return in the other direction can be complicated because the colectivos may be full.
    • these distances are feasible by bike. You can rent a bike for the day, but you’ll have just enough time to ride these two cenotes, possibly the ruins & the beach otherwise you might get too tired. If you rent a scooter, you can go further and visit the 4 cenotes listed in this article (Gran Cenote, Car Wash, Cenote Azul and Xunaan-Ha). Be careful, the roads you take are highways so be careful.
  • from Tulum to Coba by bus: from the ADO terminal, there is a 1st class bus leaving at 10:11 am to Coba. The trip will cost you 100MXN. For the second class buses, you have to ask for the timetable on the spot
  • from Tulum to Coba by colectivo: a colectivo leaves from here (google maps) for 70MXN and will drop you off in front of the ruins of Coba. Be careful on the way back, it will leave from the ADO terminal so get out of the parking lot and follow the main road.
  • from Tulum to Bacalar: from the ADO terminal, the 1st class buses leave about every hour to Bacalar (look at the timetable to Chetumal). If these buses are cancelled, the second class buses leave at about the same time for half the price.

Budget

  • Hotel
    • in Tulum: just next to the ADO terminal: Hotel Central Station Tulum 35€.(Booking link)it was one of the cheapest for Christmas.
    • Otherwise, out of season, you can opt for Hotel Blanco, 60€ (link Booking ) with swimming pool
    • in Playa del Carmen: 7 minutes walk from the 5th avenue: Hotel la Galeria by Bunik 32€ (link Booking), one of the cheapest for Christmas. Swimming pool at the rooftop and breakfast included
  • Transport
    • Car rental (2 days): US$40 for rental, US$40 for insurance, US$10 due to rotten exchange rate, US$15 of extra gas returned = US$105 for 2 days
    • Gasoline : 400MXN is enough for the trip we made
    • Parking in front of Tulum ruins: 100MXN
    • Tulum – Playa del Carmen (colectivo): 45MXN
    • Play del Carmen – Tulum (ADO bus): 88MXN
    • Cab center of Tulum – Beach: 150MXN one way
  • How to get there :
    • Tulum Ruins: 75MXN
    • Gran Cenote: 200MXN
    • Cenote Car Wash: 100MXN
    • Cenote Suytun: 120MXN (+ 110MXN if buffet)
    • Xpu-Ha: 50MXN (access refunded if restaurant bill > 200MXN)
    • Cenote Azul: 120MXN
    • Cenote Xunaan-Ha: 100MXN

For a list of all the Yucatan cenotes & tips, check out this excellent article from the Virtual Trip bloggersTo
go further :

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *